If I change to head studs what are the pro's and con's ? if I change over should I use Stainlees or Chromolly ? how tight is the fit on reasebly? hey Bob from Boise you must know ?
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...In MY Opinion; Studs are superior to Bolts because: Studs will 'bottom out' with-in the bolt hole, making for a more rigid/tighter assembly, bolts do not. While the STUD screws into the BLOCK with a Course Thread, the Nuts screw-on with a Fine thread, this accounts for a 40% Increase in CLAMPING force! This is why it is important NOT to torque the Nuts to the same value as you would a Bolt, (you will strip the Nut threads), and always be sure to use the recomended lubricant under the nut and on its' threads. See the Manufacturers' Recomendations. I use ARP studs on the heads AND the 4-Bolt Mains. You want to use the Chrome-Moly studs because CM is much stronger than Stainless Steel. Last, Ak Miller always used them, I will always use them. It's just the best way to go. In closing, You will be given instructions to install the Studs only 'Finger Tight'! We do not recommend it!! We install them using the 'Jam Nut' method, I then torque the stud into the block at 45 ft/lbs. There is a chance that the 'Bolt' hole will open to the water jacket (I found one on the engine I just pulled) In this case you may want to seal the threads with Permatex (if you do not plan to remove the studs anytime soon) OR use teflon Tape if you DO plan to remove them in the near future; although ARP suggests lubricating the threads with Engine oil. NO there will not be any interference, the Head will Slip right on, provided all of the holes were drilled at the factory, accurately. It is the Main Caps that install Very Tightly (YOU want them to be as tight as possible) You will have to 'Snap' them into place, LIGHTLY tapping them with a COPPER Hammer. All the best!
Thank you both for your reply, and I wish all a Happy New Year