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@jfb05177 posted:

the heat / ac controls, the lower lever is connected to double switch, center off, left turns on AC compressor and right opens heater solenoid  valve.



Great innovation!  How did you connect the lower HVAC lever to open the heater solenoid valve?

A list of parts/part #'s please!  I'd like to do the same with my car.

Thanks!

I got vary little info on how things were done (  and they prevent car owners from talking to techs, a dollar per hours thing)

I saw invoice for a push pull windshield wiper. .not sure .   it is a swith with center doing nothing, lever ti left turns on compreesor,   to the right opens electic soilold  valve for heat.   But no way to modulate.   so far not been warm enough to test ac for comfort.   for the heater, once chill is knock out, cutting heater off, just running fan and engine keeps you warm

Now.    I know it would happen ....but not this soon....darn squirel ! broke right side front spoiler from valance.   had to ease back home with it a flapping

also didn't realize how fragile the spoiler would be.   any comments on how to repair and make better.    If I get new, still need a way to make better (holes very close to edge)

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yes, PPC is out of them and no definite plans to get them back in stock.

They are made out of ABS plastic and if you want to strengthen/splint the, I would suggest locating some ABS sheet plastic and grabbing some ABS glue at your local hardware store. Glued onto the backside of the spoiler the splints will be invisible  

it looks like you may have torn one of the bolt holes. ABS will bend easily with a heat gun to create a splint for the lost hole.

Larry

And yes the last batch from Dennis was trimmed much too short and mounting them was a real pain.

I took my ABS sheet plastic and fabricated mounting tabs, attached them with ABS glue, and then reinforced with Plast-aid.

IMG_8763

I also used larger bolts than supplied by Dennis and installed Nutserts for a more professional installation.

63375863370__43FD12BE-0FFC-4B42-9F0F-7767FC4B6D1ALarry

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I love the look of that flat blade spoiler, and have received many comments on it over the years. But mounting has always been a challenge.

it does not come with any indication of where the holes should be. Dennis supplies 10-32 nuts and bolts but I’ve never mounted it in that matter. Prior to the Nutserts I used self drilling sheet metal screws.

Larry

Oh, well.   What was done is done.

First, I wanted to show my kit I gathered for changing trans axle fluid.

The 17mm VW oil plug socket and a ratcheting wrench worked great.   Using 5/8 vynal tubing and a plastic elbow I made the funnel.  For the fill plug with temp sensor, I just got a new plug

To drain, I just used the tire scissor jack to  reach bottom plug. 

This was the First concerning finding.   The magnetic plug was FULL!

After draining, cleaning plug and refilling with about 3 ½ QUARTS, the amount in the pan look less, so I filled the emptied bottles and discovered only drained out less than 3 PINTS.!!!

The car had been over 2000 miles mostly under 60 mph.   I now hear a “gear whine” that is more noticeable that exhaust roar at 70 mph light throttle.   Coasting or some throttle reduces the whine.

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I provided PennGrade Classic GL-4 80W90.   I KNOW that is what in used.

the ZF had been in barn storage for 3 decades with oil in it.

Ron Mccall rebuilt 4/16 and it remained in warehouse storage till mated to engine couple years ago.  first  test driving 12/23

there was no bad smell when drained.   hard to tell new from used, the new has a blue tint.

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I made changes to my dash layout.

the Sniper display was originally taped beside the ac duct.   using ABS sheet, I fabbed a small pod that put it between the speedo and tach.

I took the front bumper emblem and mounted it in a horn button replacing the Nardi button

and a dash clock/stopwatch taped left of steering wheel

Great drive today.   trip on twisty two lane for late lunch.   even though a NC highway, very little traffic.   approx 120 miles round trip  (NC27 Benson to Carthage "Pic N Pig")

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21 feburary, 2024. . . 5177 took a trip back to Klassic Kars, for some Warrenty corrections.   Mainly electrical, larger alternator, brighter dash lights, & turn signal switch.   Mecnically, the rear suspension was raised,  rekeyed all locks, the ABS front spoiler repaired and radiator side deflectors installed.

Delievered early this AM.    Heat and humidity in danger zone today and for next week so debating how much driving ir if I should do a trip

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question about air conditioning ?



just how good should I expected.   NC today is high 90's, sunny and high humity.

my older pickup and SUV will require going less than max after an hour drive.

however, after 30 / 40 drive today I was tempted to lower the windows giving I was uncomfortable sweat.    Diffinately would not want to drive several hours.



the air out of the two dash vents was cool at hand but warm by the time it made it to face.

supposedly I have a new rotary system fitted into the original box.

when delevered yesterday the primary tech suggested I get glass tinted to max legal

@jfb05177 posted:

question about air conditioning ?



just how good should I expected.   NC today is high 90's, sunny and high humity.

my older pickup and SUV will require going less than max after an hour drive.

however, after 30 / 40 drive today I was tempted to lower the windows giving I was uncomfortable sweat.    Diffinately would not want to drive several hours.



the air out of the two dash vents was cool at hand but warm by the time it made it to face.

supposedly I have a new rotary system fitted into the original box.

when delevered yesterday the primary tech suggested I get glass tinted to max legal

I let you know if my “upgrades” are working…

-outside air intake to 25% of the fan

-air outlet for cabin air

finishing up a multi year resto on my 1972 and I run a AC compressor  OEM Sanden 4663. R134, all new lines, new evaporator  and orig condenser.  A/C is all stock and in stock location.  I have 2 ball valves in the heater lines and yesterday at abo50ut 5pm NJ time it was almost 90 degrees and dripping humidity and went out for a 30 minute drive and had mid 50 degree coming out the vents and with the infra red shooting inside the vents it was as low as a constant 34 degree.          

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I think so and should, it is what I requested and I switch the heater on.

I feel that by the air out the vent not being warmer than the cabin with compressor switched off implied the electracal heater valve was blocking pretty good.

I noticed I have access to short sections of the tubes connected to the evaporator, I plan to attach thermal couple there for latter testing.

(the heat/humity today hit me pretty hard today so didn't spend any time outside)

back from shop Friday.

replace holley sniper fuel pump for the lost of power

programing changes to help with stalling

wired up windshield wipers

said AC was as good as they could get it

next morning early, took a 300mrt drive to car show in Southport NC.   No trophy but horse from all the people I talked with.   drove back through a down pour !   trip down in high 90's and HUMID.   car ran hotter than I thought it should    Think I lost 5 lbs in the sauna!

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while It won't help with operating temp, I added a over flow tank to my header tank vent.   it is 24 ozs, which is about the volume of air in my cold header tank (coolant thermal expansion volume).   when cold, over flow tank is empty and full when hot.   keeping the header tank full hot & cold, thus coolant reaches cap pressure at lower temp.  I mounted it using the right rear wheel well sheild bracket.



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I had the same problem with the collector flange bolts / nuts.  Mine were double nuts and they still worked loose.  After the third time, I replaced the nuts with metal locking nuts...problem solved.

I suspect that there is some "seating" that takes place with the bell / ball ends after a few heat cycles and vibration.

John

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