Driving 5177

duh . . . putting a plug in lieu of the sender.   (why didn't I think)

I search my folder with ZF notes from info gathered over the years (mainly from here) and I think the plug is M24X1.5 with 17m hex

I seem to recall that the plug is M22-1.5, but I would need to verify.  You are correct that the hex is 17mm.

John

Is that going to work (as a sender)?

How do you fill the case to a level high enough to submerge the sender element if that is the fill hole?

Just wondering…

Rocky

that was part of that massive cluster.   It was on car when I bought it.   I am not going to use the sensor.

May be Hot fluid "swell" and just casing temp.   Also had bunges in engine oil pan,but they were removed  and welded over.   Forgot about this one, just noticed as I was looking to have gear oil changed.

@jfb05177 posted:

the heat / ac controls, the lower lever is connected to double switch, center off, left turns on AC compressor and right opens heater solenoid  valve.

Great innovation!  How did you connect the lower HVAC lever to open the heater solenoid valve?

A list of parts/part #'s please!  I'd like to do the same with my car.

Thanks!

I got vary little info on how things were done (  and they prevent car owners from talking to techs, a dollar per hours thing)

I saw invoice for a push pull windshield wiper. .not sure .   it is a swith with center doing nothing, lever ti left turns on compreesor,   to the right opens electic soilold  valve for heat.   But no way to modulate.   so far not been warm enough to test ac for comfort.   for the heater, once chill is knock out, cutting heater off, just running fan and engine keeps you warm

Now.    I know it would happen ....but not this soon....darn squirel ! broke right side front spoiler from valance.   had to ease back home with it a flapping

also didn't realize how fragile the spoiler would be.   any comments on how to repair and make better.    If I get new, still need a way to make better (holes very close to edge)

That appears to be a spoiler from Pantera Performance Center.  They are held on by small bolts.  Personally, I would be concerned about bending your body sheet metal if you hit something bigger with it.  I would dump it.

Yes, from PPC (but they don't have any)

here is pic of the front jacking plate added  (came in handy).   the yellow steel plate with hole to accept tire jack.

there was a car show in home town today.   32F and overcast.

Leaving home at sunrise.

I   was parked in the shade.   it was Cold.   talked the entire 7 hours.  in fact, I was talking when my name was called so I don;t know what the throphy was for.  about 140 cars of all types.

yes, PPC is out of them and no definite plans to get them back in stock.

They are made out of ABS plastic and if you want to strengthen/splint the, I would suggest locating some ABS sheet plastic and grabbing some ABS glue at your local hardware store. Glued onto the backside of the spoiler the splints will be invisible  

it looks like you may have torn one of the bolt holes. ABS will bend easily with a heat gun to create a splint for the lost hole.

Larry

And yes the last batch from Dennis was trimmed much too short and mounting them was a real pain.

I took my ABS sheet plastic and fabricated mounting tabs, attached them with ABS glue, and then reinforced with Plast-aid.

I also used larger bolts than supplied by Dennis and installed Nutserts for a more professional installation.

Larry

I got one with the trimmed too short lip.   putting on tabs at the hole is my plan.

good thought about the insert.  I'll look for available insert sizes

question.   were the holes  pre-drilled in the spoiler?

I love the look of that flat blade spoiler, and have received many comments on it over the years. But mounting has always been a challenge.

it does not come with any indication of where the holes should be. Dennis supplies 10-32 nuts and bolts but I’ve never mounted it in that matter. Prior to the Nutserts I used self drilling sheet metal screws.

Larry

I  believe the right side muffler has baffle rattle.

Oh, well.   What was done is done.

First, I wanted to show my kit I gathered for changing trans axle fluid.

The 17mm VW oil plug socket and a ratcheting wrench worked great.   Using 5/8 vynal tubing and a plastic elbow I made the funnel.  For the fill plug with temp sensor, I just got a new plug

To drain, I just used the tire scissor jack to  reach bottom plug. 

This was the First concerning finding.   The magnetic plug was FULL!

After draining, cleaning plug and refilling with about 3 ½ QUARTS, the amount in the pan look less, so I filled the emptied bottles and discovered only drained out less than 3 PINTS.!!!

The car had been over 2000 miles mostly under 60 mph.   I now hear a “gear whine” that is more noticeable that exhaust roar at 70 mph light throttle.   Coasting or some throttle reduces the whine.

More concerning to me would be the blackness of the gear oil.  When was the last time you changed it?   I would drive it a bit and change it again if it is that black.   What grade of oil did you use - I can't read it on the container.  Not synthetic is it?

I provided PennGrade Classic GL-4 80W90.   I KNOW that is what in used.

the ZF had been in barn storage for 3 decades with oil in it.

Ron Mccall rebuilt 4/16 and it remained in warehouse storage till mated to engine couple years ago.  first  test driving 12/23

there was no bad smell when drained.   hard to tell new from used, the new has a blue tint.

I am surprised how dark the new stuff looks.  Castrol is much lighter and clearer even after a year of use.

That PennGrade stuff has a strong greenish cast.

Who did initial fill?

Ron ships transmissions dry.

after smell test, color test, maybe it's ok and the mush on magnet was rust after rebuilt it as it sat for years.

I plan to drain after 2000 miles.

and, is gear whine just normal?

I made changes to my dash layout.

the Sniper display was originally taped beside the ac duct.   using ABS sheet, I fabbed a small pod that put it between the speedo and tach.

I took the front bumper emblem and mounted it in a horn button replacing the Nardi button

and a dash clock/stopwatch taped left of steering wheel

Great drive today.   trip on twisty two lane for late lunch.   even though a NC highway, very little traffic.   approx 120 miles round trip  (NC27 Benson to Carthage "Pic N Pig")

Drive the heck out of it, Joe!

It’s your dream car!

21 feburary, 2024. . . 5177 took a trip back to Klassic Kars, for some Warrenty corrections.   Mainly electrical, larger alternator, brighter dash lights, & turn signal switch.   Mecnically, the rear suspension was raised,  rekeyed all locks, the ABS front spoiler repaired and radiator side deflectors installed.

Delievered early this AM.    Heat and humidity in danger zone today and for next week so debating how much driving ir if I should do a trip

@jfb05177 posted:

anyone care to guess as of today how much I have in 5177  

More than any of us care to admit! 

Why think about it?

It looks like you’re enjoying your car! I hope so!

You can’t take it with you….

question about air conditioning ?

just how good should I expected.   NC today is high 90's, sunny and high humity.

my older pickup and SUV will require going less than max after an hour drive.

however, after 30 / 40 drive today I was tempted to lower the windows giving I was uncomfortable sweat.    Diffinately would not want to drive several hours.

the air out of the two dash vents was cool at hand but warm by the time it made it to face.

supposedly I have a new rotary system fitted into the original box.

when delevered yesterday the primary tech suggested I get glass tinted to max legal

@jfb05177 posted:

question about air conditioning ?

just how good should I expected.   NC today is high 90's, sunny and high humity.

my older pickup and SUV will require going less than max after an hour drive.

however, after 30 / 40 drive today I was tempted to lower the windows giving I was uncomfortable sweat.    Diffinately would not want to drive several hours.

the air out of the two dash vents was cool at hand but warm by the time it made it to face.

supposedly I have a new rotary system fitted into the original box.

when delevered yesterday the primary tech suggested I get glass tinted to max legal

I let you know if my “upgrades” are working…

-outside air intake to 25% of the fan

-air outlet for cabin air

finishing up a multi year resto on my 1972 and I run a AC compressor  OEM Sanden 4663. R134, all new lines, new evaporator  and orig condenser.  A/C is all stock and in stock location.  I have 2 ball valves in the heater lines and yesterday at abo50ut 5pm NJ time it was almost 90 degrees and dripping humidity and went out for a 30 minute drive and had mid 50 degree coming out the vents and with the infra red shooting inside the vents it was as low as a constant 34 degree.          

Today, high 90's but cloudy.  65/70 out the vents and cabin got to +85

I checked to see if heater valve might be leaking by;   without compressor, fan on vents were at cabin temp

Do you have shut off valves?

I got electrical valves that bypass the heater but still flow…

I think so and should, it is what I requested and I switch the heater on.

I feel that by the air out the vent not being warmer than the cabin with compressor switched off implied the electracal heater valve was blocking pretty good.

I noticed I have access to short sections of the tubes connected to the evaporator, I plan to attach thermal couple there for latter testing.

(the heat/humity today hit me pretty hard today so didn't spend any time outside)

Here is what I did for upgrading the A/C

https://pantera.infopop.cc/top...core-keeping-it-cozy

Update.  I am renaming to "bad luck cat"

basically back under tarp in the barn. Not that it is undrivable, just needs some rework....

about 2,000 miles since changing ZF gear lube,   looks like a lot of "dust" on magnet to me.  

back to shop due to loss of power and a few other items.

but like going to Dr, hadn't driven since I limped it home, then cranking to put on roll back it was probably back to 90%.

back from shop Friday.

replace holley sniper fuel pump for the lost of power

programing changes to help with stalling

wired up windshield wipers

said AC was as good as they could get it

next morning early, took a 300mrt drive to car show in Southport NC.   No trophy but horse from all the people I talked with.   drove back through a down pour !   trip down in high 90's and HUMID.   car ran hotter than I thought it should    Think I lost 5 lbs in the sauna!

while It won't help with operating temp, I added a over flow tank to my header tank vent.   it is 24 ozs, which is about the volume of air in my cold header tank (coolant thermal expansion volume).   when cold, over flow tank is empty and full when hot.   keeping the header tank full hot & cold, thus coolant reaches cap pressure at lower temp.  I mounted it using the right rear wheel well sheild bracket.

had a shift gate milled in an effort to accomudate my damaged linkage

after a few hours of driving since delieviered, the driver side muffler came loose.   this side has the O2 sensor.   the nuts for the collector clamp vibrated loose.

I had the same problem with the collector flange bolts / nuts.  Mine were double nuts and they still worked loose.  After the third time, I replaced the nuts with metal locking nuts...problem solved.

I suspect that there is some "seating" that takes place with the bell / ball ends after a few heat cycles and vibration.

John