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..Some of Us change out our own Spark Plugs. Most of You Don't. For those who do, here is a Trick to make life much easier!

First, when I do the Plugs, I start with the Right Bank, cylinders 1,2,3,4. I want to start with the Hardest to reach First, so as I proceed through the Work, it gets Easier. I start by pulling all the Plugs wires, making sure they are legibly Numbered at or near the Boot. All out of the way I lay Deep over the fender wearing Flannel Pajama bottoms, so as to never scratch the finish. Starting with #1, I pull all 4 Plugs, so as to Compare. After gapping the 'Autolite 25' plugs EQUAL to .045", I Install all of the Plugs starting with #1. Put the Wires back on then go to the left side and start again with #'s 5,6,7,8. First the Hardest to reach #5. And remember Wires 5 and 6 tend to arc-over as they fire one after the other. If I remember correctly.

NOW, the Point of this posting. When installing the 'New' Plug I Highly Do NOT Recommend using a Socket to Start the Threading IN!! 9 times Out of 10...the Thread 'Naturally' will 'Want' to 'Grab' Crooked and Cross-Thread. While using a Socket the 'Installer' will Not have the 'Feel' to notice this, until it is Too Late. Especially when dealing with the Treaded Spark Plug bores of Aluminum Heads!!

I have been using this 'Helper' for decades! I Don't believe I 'Invented' it. But, I have never seen this posted on this Forum.

During World War II, in the Factories the Saying was "Easy Does It". If it does Not 'fit'... Don't force it! Something is Not right.

A 2" Piece of Rubber Tubing, gives You a good grip on starting the Plug, with the Fingers. You can FEEL the Threads Line-Up, with the Fingers and the Plug can Screwed, Smoothly,  all the way into Snugged Up, THEN remove the Tube and Use a Socket to Properly Tighten.

Never try to start the Tread with a Wrench/Socket, just good advise born of Experience.

Life can be Much Easier.

All the Best!thumbnail [1)

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...When installing the Plugs, using the Fingers, saves all of that 'Wrenching'.

One last thing...Using the Tube, allows the Plug to Align Centrally with the Threaded Bore. You want to be Careful NOT to allow the Plug Threads to Scrape into the Pocket of Debris, laying just outside the Opening!

Good Luck with it!!

MJ

...LAST! If You believe there is any possibility that One or More Plug Wires may be Arcing to Ground, or Crossing-Over Together??

Try the 'Total Blacked-Out Test'. Where the Deck is opened for an Observer (you), In a Garage, All Lights Off, Blacked Out, and a Helper starts the Engine (always in Neutral) and gives it a Couple of Moderate Revs.

You might just be Amazed at what You Observe!! And check the 'Coil Wire' and D. Cap, Also. All 'Things' will be Revealed!

"Try It! You'll Like It!!"

MJ

Last edited by marlinjack

Over filled, I had let it warm up (200) and level out before leaving.  I have the pressurized expansion tank arrangment.

BUT during the 10 minutes pulling in, got up to 220F! then it was shut down.

So, I am not too happy about how quickly it gets HOT in stop/go traffic.  don't think it could survive an extended period in city driving.

Last edited by jfb05177

Next time skip that warm-up procedure. You’re just heat soaking the engine block without giving it adequate fan-sourced airflow.

In an ideal system your fans alone should be able to maintain a functional temperature  

220° is concerning but not a dangerous temperature.

Your only real problem may just be overfilling the expansion tank. Time will tell.

Larry

@marlinjack posted:

...read my write-up about the Radiator Cover. Maybe it's Time to Up-Date the Fans. I'm Not going to Get Into the Thermostat and Restrictor Plate! Or 50/50 coolant to Water, Or Un-Bled Air in the System, improper Rad Cap Pressure...and on, and on, and on...

There are Dozens of Reasons!

MJ

@lf-tp2511 posted:

In an ideal system your fans alone should be able to maintain a functional temperature

Larry

Low speed with Both Pusher Fans on is my Problem.   The temp never levels out, just keeps creeping up   like coming off road 190 no fans, within a minute fans on automaticly.  the fan are new from vendor unknown (Wilkenson ?) with shrouded multiple blades.    increasing speed back >45mph and couple minutes the fans shut off (radiator outlet <160F switch)

As for coolant system over all, I have sides and top on radiator air inlet. deflectors   the MJ 180 thermostat and plate, pre diluted NAPA, new neck and 13psi cap.   Flow cool pump, over drive pully.   the swirl tank top is vented to the expansion tank with the 13p cap.   the left top radiator vented back to expansion and expansion bottom routed to heater return.

at the risk of being ridiculed . . .I'll share an ideal

I have added to the improvised coolant arangment.   when COLD, I completely filled the expansion tank, then let engine idle to 200 (fans come on, but let temp creep).  the thermal expansion releives about 20 ozs.   then when back cold the level in expansion is about 6" down.   basicaly has stayed like that after driving

I Thought I could add a small (~24oz) recovery tank and thus store the thermal expansion coolant and let it get suck back in when cold.   thus cold the level in the cold expansion tank is near full.   this actually worked during several excursions.

NOW when city driving and the coolant creeps to >220, then shut down heat soak, that little bit extra thermal coolant releived will "flash" when vented to small recover tank and thus dump its 20 oz holdings.   (why puddle was so big)

now I could remove the small recovery tank, But I "worry" when the expansion tank starts cold down 20oz, the compresibility of that air volume delays the coolant pressurization up to cap relief.    I am considering that a larger recover tank would contain the flashing.

BUT back to my REAL concern is fans can't maintan temp!!  I am HOPING when summer temps drop from >90 down to fall temps <80F I'll be able to do city driving.   so I can make the Norfolk gathering late October

Your system should "find its own level" (if it's like mine) in the expansion tank.  My expansion tank runs about 1/2 full.  I would not be surprised if that volume is more than 20 oz.  That's less than a big glass of beer.

So if you overfill (expansion tank FULL), and then it vents into the overflow tank, and gets sucked back in when cooled, it's still overfilled.

My advice....  Let  your system reach its happy level (after dumping some coolant on a couple local drives), and it won't do it anymore.

I might suggest you don't ONLY drive it to shows, where venting is a little embarrassing (but not harmful), and ensure your cooling system has stabilized the fluid level first.  This will give you more first-hand experience with the behavior of the system.

Perhaps you have done all this.

I can't comment on the thermal observations you are seeing.  Your comments make sense about the fans shutting off via the thermo switch while driving at speed, so that’s a good data point on the ACTUAL temperatures…

I'm sure you have a "calibration" on your gauges and are highly confident that 220* indicated on your gauge is 220* at the sender.

Anyway - let your system vent, find it's equilibrium, and then drive it for a bit.

Has it done anything wrong except push out "excessive" fluid (which isn't technically "wrong") yet?

  • Boiling sounds at engine shutdown?

Rocky

Last edited by rocky

Rocky, you are correct in your comments.   prior driving after expansion tank has "found its level" like you said.   as I stated, I thought I could improve on the "self venting" reconfiguration with a catch can (reducing the compressable volume).   the "peeing" at car show was not any thing I was surprised about, just embarasing especially with all the attention 5177 got!  (posted pic to be funny)

the "peeing" was silent, so no boil gurgling has been heard

But above is not my concern.   The fans in city driving are not stopping the temp to rise.  Thus don't think it would be able to do extended city driving.   while insuffent air flow is first though, the fans and radiator are better than original, so could it be coolant flow.  even on hottest most humid days, above 45 mph up to 80 mph (fastest I've been) the temps run about 190F

I have four temperture indicatures.   the Sniper digital display with sender in front of block (assume to be accurate), the Vegia dash with sender in pump inlet (just an indication normally about 20 below block), the fan on light from switch in radiator outlet and idiot light switch in swirl tank.  (I have not seen idiot light yet though)

So anyway, your system cools as you get up to speed.

Marlin’s “blast pressure” thread gives us something to think about.

Are you certain that your fans are not a restriction to the airflow that is needed? Do you know for a fact that the fans running in the correct direction?

Rocky

It sounds like you should have a robust cooling system design. So this is a little puzzling.

My car, which is similar to yours in this area, and has lower capacity Mariah fans, stays cool, and does not have an overheating problem at idle & low speed.

to my knowledge, My fans are the Mariahs.  by rotation arrow, by fan angle, by air being sucked in front and blown out under car, I think direction is correct.   the fans shrouds are just touching core.   I have capibility to get an air velocity profile, just haven't felt like doing it

at speeds >45mph for a few minuted, fans switch off.   I have side and top deflectors and the same spoiler as You.   while I've thought about blocking off the ovals in the lower valance, I don't think that would help at low speeds.

I have been thinking about a second "spoiler" just behind the steering rack bracket thinking it would give a higher velocity to the air dumped from lower valance and create low pressure at the radiator exhuast area.   But that would mainly help with at speed cooling that is OK.

I too am stumped why cooling with fans is not better.

jfb,  might I suggest you extend the expansion tank overflow tube so it dumps behind the rear wheel. If it starts dripping like that at speed it could cause a real safety issue.

Also, I don't want to highjack your thread but where did you find the giant black panther?  I have been looking for one for years.

Thanks,

Doug M

interesting attention at local car show !!!

After pulling into parking lot, I noticed an Officer walking briskly towards Me.   The Lt. introduced Himself, like the beginning of a traffic stop, then smiles and proceeds to tell me how the Pantera was his dream car and had noticed me coming through town in past.   The other drivers and spectators circled and watched to see why Officer was there.  after looking car over I asked if he wanted to get in and try pedals,etc.  He handed over cuffs and pistol and crawled in!   at end of show, as others were lining up to exit, a black unmarked Tahoe with blue lights flashing entered and pulled behind me.   the Lt and 3 other Officers exited to hear me crank up!

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@jfb05177 posted:

interesting attention at local car show !!!

After pulling into parking lot, I noticed an Officer walking briskly towards Me.   The Lt. introduced Himself, like the beginning of a traffic stop, then smiles and proceeds to tell me how the Pantera was his dream car and had noticed me coming through town in past.   The other drivers and spectators circled and watched to see why Officer was there.  after looking car over I asked if he wanted to get in and try pedals,etc.  He handed over cuffs and pistol and crawled in!   at end of show, as others were lining up to exit, a black unmarked Tahoe with blue lights flashing entered and pulled behind me.   the Lt and 3 other Officers exited to hear me crank up!

The beginning of the story would have created an instant bowel movement…

I would have expected to hear the words “I finally got you…”

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