Fuse Block Replacement

I saw your post when I was in Vegas and thought someone would have answered by now. I recall having some of the same issues with mine, but I don't recall how I resolved it. I will look when I get home and let you know. I definitely got it to fit in the stock location and have been very happy with it.

Gary #06984

Curious, what did it cost you ?
Larry Stock also has one for sale, $300.00 with exchange for the old block.

A little pricey, but considering the electric's of our cars, worth the money.

When Bob was selling them directly, they were $75 w/o the relay modification. I would be interested to see what they went to since Marino took over selling them

That's a lot of fuses on the new block, almost double my existing block?

From what I understand Larry's is a remodel of the existing fuse block where he epoxies modern spade/maxi type fuse holders right onto the old block, so no mounting or wire length issues

I'm gonna give that a go myself and picked up a used fuse block on eBay.

Julian

quote:

Originally posted by Pooky:
I purchased a fuse block from Pantera East and think it was the Timma block. I seem to find the instructions lacking as to the installation and required splitting of wires to individual circuits.


After switching the wires over to the new box I can't get it to fit in the location behind the access cover becouse of the location of the existing wiring harness. IS this a common problem or am I overlooking something here? I assume the plastic brackets are suppose to mount to the existing mounting points.


Thanks for the help
Steve

I haven't done this one yet but I want to. God knows I need to.
I think from what I can see it is the new mounting brackets.

I think that you need to kinda work backwards on this one. You have to first try the block to see how you need to mount it to make it fit first.
Then maybe take it out to make it easier to switch the wires.

Larry Stock modifies the oem fuse block to utilize the newer blade type fuses. Its a direct replacement, same size, same mounting holes, same exact wiring connections, just new style fuses.

For anybody wanting to avoid the headaches of a non-oem type installation, I highly recommend Larry's modified fuse block.

your friend on the DTBB

Good news, bad news, if you are in a rush. What i did was make a plate out of 1/8" thick by 1" wide aluminum. I mounted the plate to the original mounting holes and then mounted the fuse block to the new aluminum plate.

The bad news is that my digital camera battery came back from Vegas stone dead so I probably won't get to post pictures til tomorrow. You really need to see how I did it rather than me try to 'splain it to you. (the old pictures worth a 1,000 words thing)

Gary #06984

Charged the battery up and took some pictures!

another view

one more

last one hope it helps


Gary #06984

Julian,
I heard about the tire problem on the way home from Vegas.

Lucas, over loaded many of their fuses. That is why there are so many 30 amp fuses used. One can load balance or use more fuses to eliminate many of the problems. If you look at the stock block you will see many wires going to the same terminal/fuse. So splitting them offers some safety.

I did a simliar mod but used some of the nesting fuse block available from painless wiring. They have 5 fuses per block and the blocks snap together to build the necessary fuse system. The tough part is jumpering the wires from the old box to the new box.

Also if you are in their playing around, I highly suggest the relay mod for the fans and headlights. There is a great diagram from Mike Drew on the mod: www.panteraplace.com/page109.htm For the cost of a few fuses and common relays it removes a massive load of the switches in the car.

I am good with wiring systems so if you want ideas or a hand drop a call.

Steve,

The tire could have been a lot worse a) we were only 3 miles from arriving into Tonopah b) the local tire guy just happened to be in his shop on a Sunday c) he had a used 245/45 17 tire out the back d) He was willing to give it to me! In the end we lost just over an hour and I'm out one new Michelin Pilot SX. I think it must have just had a slow puncture or lost air and started to run on the wall (we were tanking along at a good rate!) The first I noticed was a severe wander passing another car as the wall came away from the tread! My thanks goes out to the guys (especially Jim & Dennis) for hanging around and helping out, another fine example of the Pantera community sticking by a fellow member in need. It also reinforces the need for me to get a rear tub and make room to carry a spare!!

On the wiring note I did the fan relay mod along with the changeover to the Flex-a-lite fans. The painless wiring blocks look a good idea as an add-on as you say and they are available locally at Summit, thanks. I already have Mike Drew's document on my hard drive and was planning to rewire/relay the headlights along with the quad conversion. I think the safest is to basically run as much as possible through relays and I certainly wouldn't recommend installing the Kirk Evans headlights without them. I'm thinking to rewire it so I have both low & high beam on during high beam operation.

Julian

Gary and all,
Thanks for the pictures, Gary did you by chance flip the fuses upside down from the way they came? My fuses had the box relay plugs facing the front of the car and the fuses facing proper. It would aslo have been nice if a fuse/circuit discription was included with the new circuits. I did try and flip the box as yours is but the wiring had already been transfered and the wires may have kept it from fitting as far back as your picture shows. The metal plate is a good idea however I thought this was going to be a direct plug in with no issues. Overall the block is a nice piece and the connections are great, However the installation instructions were terrible and the splitting of wires was not antisipated, it makes sense to do it. For some reason I lost the light switch after doing the switch over, when I applied power to the box my running lights and interior/gauge dash lights were on. After testing the switch it was a closed circuit to those wires. Weard but so is Lucus. Another small thing, the cover for the fuse block would also have been nice touch, maybe someone knew it wouldn't fit?
I will check the reciept when I get home and post the price. Again thanks for the info, just wanted to be sure I wasn't doing something really wrong.

I paid $110 to Pantera East for the fuse block.

Steve