Ingnition Switch

Doug,
I think there is a writeup and good pictures on Mike's "Pantera Place.com" site on removing & rebuilding the Ignition switch. Should answer most of your questions. Good Luck!

Here are a couple of threads that may be useful to you:
http://pantera.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/7890077274/m/1380093944
http://pantera.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/7890077274/m/6500099454

Ignition switch repair article on Pantera Place:
http://www.panteraplace.com/page125.htm

Thanks for the info guys. Since I haven't taken anything apart yet I don't know the cause yet.

I never liked the looks of the junction block the factory used.

I wouldn't be surprized at all if it is the source of the smoke.

I'm going to have to put the ignition module back on the relay and deal with the tach connection seperately.

I don't like the smell of burning leather. It smells very expensive.

I emailed Blitz. We'll see what they say.

As an Interesting asside to me they list manual racks and power racks for the Capri. Has anyone determined if the Pantera rack was sourced from the Capri?

Roland, do you have the original US Pantera type switch or just the later unit? If so, what is the price?

Doug,

If it turns out you need a replacement for the electrical portion of the ignition switch - it mounts with two phillips head screws - I can assist. Friendly pricing..

Rebuilding should be your first action, though.

Removing the entire ignition switch from the car is probably not necessary if just the rear mounted electrical portion is kaputz.. but I have never done it in the car, just on the bench.

The ignition switch is mounted to the column with two bolts that have a break-away hex head for security reasons, and removing the durn thing may be a PITA.

PM me if you need help, advice or parts.

As for the steering rack, the Pantera rack was NOT sourced from the Capri - just the column (which DeTomaso cut, shortened and welded back together),ignition switch,signal stalk and steering wheel.

Larry

Blitz replied. A new switch without the key is $158. Add $55 for a new key and lock cylinder. A used switch is %60 and shipping is $15.

Sounds very reasonable to me.

The smoke should be cleared out by tomorrow and I will see what I can see.

See, if I had that new single pod dash this would be a good time to do it and pull everything apart.

I suppose that I should be happy that I just have an Italian car and not one of their submarines?

OK, I have the switch out of the car.

The electrical portion was replaced (by me) previously and works correctly. The spring action in the switch is at the start position and pushes the switch back to the run position.

It does not smell nor look burnt.

The junction block is the original type but has been replace as well. The connections show no trama from anything, including heat.

The mechanical switch works freely but a little heavily. The key cylinder had been replaced by me and seems fine. When the key is inserted and turned, the column lock withdraws, the center of the key cylinder inverts (goes in).

When the hey is turned to off, the column lock clicks out and the cylinder pops flush when I pull out the key but does not eject the key. Is it supposed to?

I am going to lube it some to see if I can easy up the actions.

Does this all sould correct or am I missing something?

I'm going to solder the ends of the switch wires to keep them from fraying.

I am also going to test the switch for contanuity. It doesn't look like either of the switches is at fault.

There are no melted wire insulations to be seen under the dash in the vacinity of the switch, or anywhere I can see.

This is puzzaling since I definately saw smoke coming from that area and the engine wouldn't shut off when the key was removed.

I am not seeing the problem. Is there anyone out there with a better idea of what is going on?

Should I get a particular ohm reading through the switch to verify that it is ok?

Would this be a good spot to install a 50amp continuous duty relay to take the entire accessory electrical load off of the ignition switch?

Everything is right there. The power in, the power out. Just slip the relay right there under the dash next to the ignition switch?

What do you think?

quote:

The electrical portion was replaced (by me) previously and works correctly. The spring action is at the start position and pushes the switch back to the run position.

The action all sounds to be like it should be.

If you are sure the smoke came from the switch, and not perhaps from the turn signal switch, then I would suspect the electrical portion may have an unseen issue.

Larry

What I saw that I don't like is that I have the heavy wire from the Ford/Motorsport ignition conversion harness spliced right into the switch.

GP has warned that it should be on it's own relay. I think the in again out again relay is in again and this is where it is going to get installed.

Where there is smoke there is fire. It was hard to identify the exact location Larry because I was occupied hyperventalating, breathing into a paper bag. I was also distracted by my entire life flashing before my eyes.

Obviously something is going on that on the surface was easy to blame the switch. Why didn't the engine shut off when I turned the switch off? That is the question.

The smoke could have been from the ignition switch. These switches do get a little warm and there could have been some contaminent on the contacts?

Yikes!

I need some help here.

The colors of the main wiring harness that I have running into the ignition switch junction block are different then the factory wiring diagram indicates.

I have a Black, Blue, Pink, Red with green spliced to it.

I realize thatwhat matters is not necessarily the order they are in but to what wire the splice to on the switch.

Larry or Garth, do you have a correct diagram of what wires in the harness go to what wires on the switch?

It appears that the resistance wire was remove (probably by me) when the Ford/Motorsport ignition harness was installed.

For those in the future searching for info here are some pictures from SOBill. Thanks Bill.

This onw will help too.