LOUVERS

1

MJ

Nice work & planning!

Keep us posted!

Rocky

...Started the fitting of the First slat louver. Had to Sand the ends to fit snug in the groove of the deck opening lip. After the rubber edge liner was removed. The first slat is fitted, the rest of the other 7 slats are cut perfect and will lay IN and between the Sides of the Deck.

Pics: Start, Closer, Closer, Still Closer, IN but NOT Down...Snapped In Down Snug in the Sails and LEVEL...Perfect!!   

...Length of ends were off by 0.125". To mate with the Vertical Angle of the Deck Sides...this is how I Correct them, on a CNC Mill. 

You install your slats perfectly flat? The one I got has a slight curvature in it to make them more rigid…

Machining process question…. You are clamping the sheet under the board, and cutting with that fluted endmill?

I’m just asking to learn…. does the sheet ever try and deflect up due to the action of the cutter?

Do you run this at a pretty high RPM?

Thanks!

Rocky

@LeMans850i posted:

You install your slats perfectly flat? The one I got has a slight curvature in it to make them more rigid…

Rigid?? At 0.090" and Two Mounting Bars I had to put My Full weight on Them, Half a Dozen times to get them to the Slightest curvature...These Slats, NO Flexing, No Bending, I could Stand On Them!!

@rocky posted:

Machining process question…. You are clamping the sheet under the board, and cutting with that fluted endmill?

I’m just asking to learn…. does the sheet ever try and deflect up due to the action of the cutter?

Do you run this at a pretty high RPM?

Thanks!

Rocky

...No Lifting! 450 RPM for a 1.275" Diameter Cutter, Slow Feed. 8 Flutes. There is a 3/8" Thick Steel Plate under the end, 1/2" from the Edge. "The Chips tell the Story". The Tool is Razor Sharp!! 'Climb' Milling produces the Best Finish. The Cut depth was 0.1247" Done Twice at Each End to remove 0.250" on a 'Diminishing' Taper. With a 'Trial Fit' before the Second Cuts. 0.090" Thick is pretty Solid. Carbide 'V' Deburring tool will Smooth All the Sharp Edges before Painting. I would Leave them Polished But do Not want a 'Mirror' for the Sun Behind Me. I think Primer and 'Gloss Black' Just like the Lambo in the Photo Above.

I like to think that the bean counters at Ford were responsible for that “hole In the wall” deck lid design…

But as I said, it’s just what I like to think! 🤔

TOTAL REDRESS OF DESIGN:

...I figured out why the first design did not look as Fitting as the Photo of the Lambo slats, studying that Photo again!

Too Many Louvers, No Spacing!! The FLAT Slats on the Lambo Do NOT 'Butt-Up' when looking down on them. There is Spacing.

The Correction was simple for Me. Eliminate the Last Slat (H), and go to (7) Slats with a 0.625" Spacing between them, See Pic. Comes out Perfect with 7 Views of a .981" High Viewing 'Window' (On Average), Under Each Louver. Ending with Only 4.875" of Deck Showing to the Rear. And, as a Bonus...'7' Is Lucky, and gives a Louver to the Middle of the Assembly. The Entire Assembly weighs 14.7 Pounds. For Your Consideration...'Blueprints'.   

Be very, very worried when the voices in your head stop talking! That's when I think I may be in trouble. They are up to something!

...photos separate from my text (following) so they don't mess up should I have to come back and edit...

...I started the Drilling of the Slats, counter sinking for the Flat Head screws, comes last. The first photo shows a slight hint to the curvature of the twin mounting 'Beams'. The photo of the first Louver to be drilled, also shows the 'Relief' for the Antennae (Radio when the engine is off).

The Twin beams are 'Blind' Drilled and Tapped 1/4-20 NC. The Temporary Pin joining them, guarantees the stay aligned, and be Measured EXACT to Each Other, during the Process, as seen on the Monitor, accuracy is to the 0.0001" X,Y and Z.

The 'A' Drive is for the 8" Rotary Table, not being used at this Time. This Machine is a 'True' 5 Axis CNC Mill. Meaning ALL axis can be Programed to Operate Simultaneously. With-In this size Envelope, it is capable of machining most anything Imaginable, Conceivable, right up to and Including Helical/Spiral Turbine Impellers.

Stay tuned for Later Assembly Photos.   

...Correction. Make that a 6" Rotary Table. And a better View of the Mounting Curvature.

…and also

Angel number 14.7, when interpreted through numerology, signifies a message about positive change, new beginnings, and a strong foundation built on inner wisdom and intuition

I first think . . Standard atmospheric pressure 14.7 psia

lots of positive things happening here

Very cool rotary table, Marlin.

We have one (manual) that we used to cut a gear to repair a lathe that had been crashed (hard!)

Not trying to take away from Marlin’s thread – but I hope he would appreciate this.

It’s a vertical rotary table, using the myriad of holes on the vertical face you can set up the precise gear configuration (based on the diameter of your blank, and the number of teeth) for specific gear you want to cut.

...Yes, I have used a 'Dividing Head' and 'Footstock', many times. Very Interesting and Precise, Mechanism!! Not many know How to use it! You're Very Skilled to Manipulate it!

I Still have One in My Shop.

Thanks for Posting!

I'm learning from an expert. 

It's very amazing how clever developers (and users) of machine tools are...  They encounter a problem, and come up with ingenious ways to solve it!

Rocky

I learned how to use a dividing head over 50 years ago, but I don't know if I would still know how to do it. It was in the early days of CNC machines, there was only one at school, only teachers were allowed to touch it and we, students, were still learning to use purely mechanical machines.

It appeared to me that once you work out the measurements, and go to your dividing head reference manual, you set up the adjustable “reference counter”.

It’s just a matter of being very consistent and accurate as you rotate your gear around - which is the problem the dividing head is intended to solve!

On our first pass, we cut very light “indexing marks”, and ensured they were in alignment when we got back all the away around.  Once we proved this, and that we had the correct number of gear teeth (very important!), we were confident in the setup - and cut the teeth for real!

Afterwards, we flame hardened the gear, to give it better wear resistance.

It was a fun project!

...Using a 'Transfer Punch', 1/4" Clearance hole. Starting at the First Louver and transferring to the next size up...'A' was the first and Only one Measured, then transferred to B, B to C, C to D...on up to the Last Slat, G. One is Laid over the Next Largest, Centered Perfectly and Aligned Parallele, Exact! Then the Bores Positions are Transferred.

What this does is: Guarantees! Proper orientation, All Slats to Align Perfectly upon mounting. Eliminates any chance of Error with Additional Measurements. All Drilled Holes Exactly Positioned the Same! With the top slat lowered, you can see the Punch Mark on the Next Slat. Then I give it a Heavier/Deeper Blow with a 'Center Punch' and drill it 1/4". Last, 'That' Louver is Transferred to the Next, and up to 'G'.

...It Doesn't get any more accurate, than This! Other than 'Stacking' all 7 Louvers on top of each other, clamping them down, and drilling straight through. That would risk a Misalignment. And if there was Error in the First...All would share the Error.

Now I will 'Counter-Sink' the Bores, Deburr and remove all sharp edges then prep for paint. Primer and then the Shiniest 'Gloss Black' Available. This will Make these 'Pop' right out of the Deck!

...28 Flathead Stainless Screws will also be painted Gloss Black to Match. They will be All But Invisible.

A short description of the Engineering of the Screw Hole Placements.

You will notice each louver has 4 Machine screws. These are Centered on the Slat, at 20.0" Between Centers, ALL Louvers**. 2 screws are 0.750" from the Front Edge. These will mount the Slat in Full Contact with the Support Beam, and will act as a 'Slight Pivot' to the Mounted Angle of each Louver. The other 2 Screws are Mounted Exact ln the Center of the Louver, 3.0" from front and rear, edges. Both of these Screws will also, action as a Pivot, to a Degree. With a Selected Spacer/Shim, under, they can Be Aimed Precisely. I have Machine Screws of 4 Differing Lengths, to act with each Shim and Not Bottom within the Blind Holes. The Nature of the 'Counter-Sunk' screw Head. allows for this slight movement. And being Straight Vertical, mates Perfectly with the Leveled Slats.

The Support Beams are drilled, all 28 bores, 'Straight Down' Vertical and 'Blind'* regardless of the Beam Curvature. And with the Most Frontal position, (of the First Louver) on the Beam, held perfectly Level to the Machine Table, throughout the Entire 28 Operations.

With the Slight degree of 'Pivot', the Louver can be 'Aimed' with a 'Lazer-Leveler-Inclonometer'...presumably at the Rearview Mirror, and/or absolutely LEVEL to the Pantera.

* Blind holes! As I did not want to see the Exit Bores of the Screws, in the Rearview Mirror...Forever! This makes the Drilling/Tapping Operations, Infinitely More Difficult! A 'Thread Forming' Tap (Not a 'Cutting' Tap) is used for this Soft Material, because It Does Not Produce Chips that will Tear-up the Threads. The Beam is 0.500" High. The Blind Holes are Drilled to a Depth of 0.4601". It is Not My idea to be Accurate to the 4th Place. It is Automatically in the Programming of the 'Tormach 770'. 0.4601" just enough Threading to hold a 1/4-20 Machine Screw, Secure. With a Theoretical 'Bottom Cloiser' of 0.0399" thick! In the Final assembly 'Lock-Tite' BLUE will be used.

** This is why it was Paramount that they Be Absolute, one behind the Other in Exact Alignment!!

Hi there, they are looking great, and it seems that there is alot of interest in them,was looking at the picture of the Lamborghini louvers and the the thing I think that sets them apart is the miminal number of slats,so I went out and quickly mocked up these out of foam core(please forgive the crude mock up) to see what they might look like....what do you all think about this style,to me its looks more modern,but hey, that's just me!        Also made these covers for the window crank plug, any interest in these?

@Lane hawley I like the look

...I think your work looks 'Absolutely Fabulous!!' You're on to something here, yours' looks more like the Lambo than My Work!. Shop around for the Aluminum, if that's the material you plan to use. I purchased my Aluminum on Ebay, 2 pieces, 24" x 48". My only suggestion is that You have a Professional 'Cut' it for You. Unless You do have access to a 4 Foot Shear.

Keep at it!! Between You and I, I think we have Started something here! Work on Exacting Your Measurements! (Spacing) Looks Like You have the 'Angles' Down Pat!

All the best to Your Completion! Keep Us posted, right 'here' if You Like.

Thanks, all the people on the forums help to inspire each other, I think I can make these also with no holes drilled,hate to damage the bodywork, I want to be able to return it to stock with miminal work

Was just thinking about what to use, like you I thought of aluminum, but sitting here looking at them,I think I could use a flat sheet of carbon fiber,would be plenty stiff for span, easy to shape,and virtually weigh nothing. I could either clearcoat or paint it with little prep. Thanks for the encouragement, I think I have some patterns to make!

...Lane, your use of Carbon Fiber, would be superb! Bring us into the '3rd Millenium'!! Modernize these Panteras. I urge you to continue, Do It! (I) personally, would Not paint the Carbon Fiber, it would look Beautiful, just on it's own!! Lane, my last suggestion to you, as All of my Teachers and Mentors, 'Demanded' of Me..."Draw It Up!!" As in a Blueprint, all mistakes and Flaws will be revealed, in-time to fix it, before Cutting.

@marlinjack posted:

...Of course the Magnets will leave an Impression. I will put Thin Leather Underneath, this will help. I already have Electronics mounted on the Deck with Magnets, not a Problem.

The alternative is to drill into the Steel Decklid. Paint can be Fixed, Holes are a Little Harder to Repair.

Bottom Line, I don't really care about the Paint, Not going to show, anyway. I consider it, just Another 'Battle Scar'!

Is there an easy way to release the magnetic resistance of 400 pounds each to the deck sheet metal in the future if necessary without damage?

Here are some pics to add to the discussion. They show how the size of the slats can effect the overall appearance.

Here is another picture of Pantera louvers. These have a single spine down the middle. I believe that these are the Mind Train ones?

I count 12 slats on this one and the deck painted satin black beneath it blends in to extend the look of the slats into the deck lid.

...Great Photo , Thanks for Posting.

The '400' Pound magnets were listed on Ebay as 'Fishing Magnets'. I bought 2 of the Smallest Round. I think they are closer to 80-100 Lbs??

An Easy release? 12 Volt DC Electro-Magnets, would be a Great Idea of Yours! ON, only while the Engine is Running!?

@marlinjack posted:

...Great Photo , Thanks for Posting.

The '400' Pound magnets were listed on Ebay as 'Fishing Magnets'. I bought 2 of the Smallest Round. I think they are closer to 80-100 Lbs??

An Easy release? 12 Volt DC Electro-Magnets, would be a Great Idea of Yours! ON, only while the Engine is Running!?

I do like YOUR idea of the easy-release. It is a great idea. I'd go with that if I change.

How the heck do these magnets get applied to fishing? Are fish magnetic?

...That Last Photo, I like That Look Best with the Louvers 'Tucked' Down between the Deck Sides and More Streamlined.

Last Night, I finished the 'Cold Thread  Forming' Tapping of the 28 Blind screw holes. The 'Tap' (see photo) has No cutting flutes. It Squeezes/Swages the threads into the Soft Aluminum. It takes 100% more force to work it. It worked perfectly, feeling as if it could snap at any moment. Happy to report, No Errors. Will do a trial fit of all slats, today. No countersinks or deburring, yet. Will Post a Photo after.

Great Tap! the Only way to do Aluminum! No Chips to Gaul up the Threads, and they are Much Stronger because No Metal was removed and they were 'Cold Forged'!   

...Photos of the very first testing assembly to check Screw Spacing and the Accuracy of the Louver positions. In the first pic, one can Not see the 'Taper' from Top to Bottom.

All went well. Everything was in Perfect Alignment and all positioning was Correct! They just 'Look' out of Place.

One Must understand that all these screws were just started-in. They are Not yet shimmed and Not at all Tightened. The Slats are pretty much just hanging on, but are True!

I am very Satisfied with the Results of My work. Still waiting on the arrival of a few parts, and Start Machining the Forward Mounting.

Questions are Welcome,

Thank You

...the Camera has made these look as if the Slats descend to a less wide measure, when in fact All 7 Louvers are Equal to Each Other at 6.00" Wide.

I add better photos, Still not Countersunk, not yet Spaced under the lower screws to achieve angles. Top screws are Tightened and all Bores not C. Sunk. One can see how shimming under the 2 Lower Screws, which are now loose, an Angle can be adjusted to Pivot on the Upper 2 Screws. Aimed 'Level' to Sight, then all are tightened.

...After Counter-Sinking the Bores, All Screw Heads will be Flush. I Think I will Assemble all, then Paint.