LOUVERS

1

MJ

Nice work & planning!

Keep us posted!

Rocky

...Started the fitting of the First slat louver. Had to Sand the ends to fit snug in the groove of the deck opening lip. After the rubber edge liner was removed. The first slat is fitted, the rest of the other 7 slats are cut perfect and will lay IN and between the Sides of the Deck.

Pics: Start, Closer, Closer, Still Closer, IN but NOT Down...Snapped In Down Snug in the Sails and LEVEL...Perfect!!   

...Length of ends were off by 0.125". To mate with the Vertical Angle of the Deck Sides...this is how I Correct them, on a CNC Mill.

You install your slats perfectly flat? The one I got has a slight curvature in it to make them more rigid…

Machining process question…. You are clamping the sheet under the board, and cutting with that fluted endmill?

I’m just asking to learn…. does the sheet ever try and deflect up due to the action of the cutter?

Do you run this at a pretty high RPM?

Thanks!

Rocky

@LeMans850i posted:

You install your slats perfectly flat? The one I got has a slight curvature in it to make them more rigid…

Rigid?? At 0.090" and Two Mounting Bars I had to put My Full weight on Them, Half a Dozen times to get them to the Slightest curvature...These Slats, NO Flexing, No Bending, I could Stand On Them!!

     

@rocky posted:

Machining process question…. You are clamping the sheet under the board, and cutting with that fluted endmill?

I’m just asking to learn…. does the sheet ever try and deflect up due to the action of the cutter?

Do you run this at a pretty high RPM?

Thanks!

Rocky

...No Lifting! 450 RPM for a 1.275" Diameter Cutter, Slow Feed. 8 Flutes. There is a 3/8" Thick Steel Plate under the end, 1/2" from the Edge. "The Chips tell the Story". The Tool is Razor Sharp!! 'Climb' Milling produces the Best Finish. The Cut depth was 0.1247" Done Twice at Each End to remove 0.250" on a 'Diminishing' Taper. With a 'Trial Fit' before the Second Cuts. 0.090" Thick is pretty Solid. Carbide 'V' Deburring tool will Smooth All the Sharp Edges before Painting. I would Leave them Polished But do Not want a 'Mirror' for the Sun Behind Me. I think Primer and 'Gloss Black' Just like the Lambo in the Photo Above.

I like to think that the bean counters at Ford were responsible for that “hole In the wall” deck lid design…

But as I said, it’s just what I like to think! 🤔

TOTAL REDRESS OF DESIGN:

...I figured out why the first design did not look as Fitting as the Photo of the Lambo slats, studying that Photo again!

Too Many Louvers, No Spacing!! The FLAT Slats on the Lambo Do NOT 'Butt-Up' when looking down on them. There is Spacing.

The Correction was simple for Me. Eliminate the Last Slat (H), and go to (7) Slats with a 0.625" Spacing between them, See Pic. Comes out Perfect with 7 Views of a .981" High Viewing 'Window' (On Average), Under Each Louver. Ending with Only 4.875" of Deck Showing to the Rear. And, as a Bonus...'7' Is Lucky, and gives a Louver to the Middle of the Assembly. The Entire Assembly weighs 14.7 Pounds. For Your Consideration...'Blueprints'.   

Be very, very worried when the voices in your head stop talking! That's when I think I may be in trouble. They are up to something!

...photos separate from my text (following) so they don't mess up should I have to come back and edit...

...I started the Drilling of the Slats, counter sinking for the Flat Head screws, comes last. The first photo shows a slight hint to the curvature of the twin mounting 'Beams'. The photo of the first Louver to be drilled, also shows the 'Relief' for the Antennae (Radio when the engine is off).

The Twin beams are 'Blind' Drilled and Tapped 1/4-20 NC. The Temporary Pin joining them, guarantees the stay aligned, and be Measured EXACT to Each Other, during the Process, as seen on the Monitor, accuracy is to the 0.0001" X,Y and Z.

The 'A' Drive is for the 8" Rotary Table, not being used at this Time. This Machine is a 'True' 5 Axis CNC Mill. Meaning ALL axis can be Programed to Operate Simultaneously. With-In this size Envelope, it is capable of machining most anything Imaginable, Conceivable, right up to and Including Helical/Spiral Turbine Impellers. It's all about having the Correct Cutter and have the 'Time', and skills to do the set-up and Programing!

Stay tuned for Later Assembly Photos.   

...Correction. Make that a 6" Rotary Table. And a better View of the Mounting Curvature.

…and also

Angel number 14.7, when interpreted through numerology, signifies a message about positive change, new beginnings, and a strong foundation built on inner wisdom and intuition

I first think . . Standard atmospheric pressure 14.7 psia

lots of positive things happening here

Very cool rotary table, Marlin.

We have one (manual) that we used to cut a gear to repair a lathe that had been crashed (hard!)

Not trying to take away from Marlin’s thread – but I hope he would appreciate this.

It’s a vertical rotary table, using the myriad of holes on the vertical face you can set up the precise gear configuration (based on the diameter of your blank, and the number of teeth) for specific gear you want to cut.

...Yes, I have used a 'Dividing Head' and 'Footstock', many times. Very Interesting and Precise, Mechanism!! Not many know How to use it! You're Very Skilled to Manipulate it!

I Still have One in My Shop.

Thanks for Posting!

I'm learning from an expert. 

It's very amazing how clever developers (and users) of machine tools are...  They encounter a problem, and come up with ingenious ways to solve it!

Rocky

I learned how to use a dividing head over 50 years ago, but I don't know if I would still know how to do it. It was in the early days of CNC machines, there was only one at school, only teachers were allowed to touch it and we, students, were still learning to use purely mechanical machines.

It appeared to me that once you work out the measurements, and go to your dividing head reference manual, you set up the adjustable “reference counter”.

It’s just a matter of being very consistent and accurate as you rotate your gear around - which is the problem the dividing head is intended to solve!

On our first pass, we cut very light “indexing marks”, and ensured they were in alignment when we got back all the away around.  Once we proved this, and that we had the correct number of gear teeth (very important!), we were confident in the setup - and cut the teeth for real!

Afterwards, we flame hardened the gear, to give it better wear resistance.

It was a fun project!

...Using a 'Transfer Punch', 1/4" Clearance hole. Starting at the First Louver and transferring to the next size up...'A' was the first and Only one Measured, then transferred to B, B to C, C to D...on up to the Last Slat, G. One is Laid over the Next Largest, Centered Perfectly and Aligned Parallele, Exact! Then the Bores Positions are Transferred.

What this does is: Guarantees! Proper orientation, All Slats to Align Perfectly upon mounting. Eliminates any chance of Error with Additional Measurements. All Drilled Holes Exactly Positioned the Same! With the top slat lowered, you can see the Punch Mark on the Next Slat. Then I give it a Heavier/Deeper Blow with a 'Center Punch' and drill it 1/4". Last, 'That' Louver is Transferred to the Next, and up to 'G'.

...It Doesn't get any more accurate, than This! Other than 'Stacking' all 7 Louvers on top of each other, clamping them down, and drilling straight through. That would risk a Misalignment. And if there was Error in the First...All would share the Error.

Now I will 'Counter-Sink' the Bores, Deburr and remove all sharp edges then prep for paint. Primer and then the Shiniest 'Gloss Black' Available. This will Make these 'Pop' right out of the Deck!

...28 Flathead Stainless Screws will also be painted Gloss Black to Match. They will be All But Invisible.

A short description of the Engineering of the Screw Hole Placements.

You will notice each louver has 4 Machine screws. These are Centered on the Slat, at 20.0" Between Centers, ALL Louvers**. 2 screws are 0.750" from the Front Edge. These will mount the Slat in Full Contact with the Support Beam, and will act as a 'Slight Pivot' to the Mounted Angle of each Louver. The other 2 Screws are Mounted Exact ln the Center of the Louver, 3.0" from front and rear, edges. Both of these Screws will also, action as a Pivot, to a Degree. With a Selected Spacer/Shim, under, they can Be Aimed Precisely. I have Machine Screws of 4 Differing Lengths, to act with each Shim and Not Bottom within the Blind Holes. The Nature of the 'Counter-Sunk' screw Head. allows for this slight movement. And being Straight Vertical, mates Perfectly with the Leveled Slats.

The Support Beams are drilled, all 28 bores, 'Straight Down' Vertical and 'Blind'* regardless of the Beam Curvature. And with the Most Frontal position, (of the First Louver) on the Beam, held perfectly Level to the Machine Table, throughout the Entire 28 Operations.

With the Slight degree of 'Pivot', the Louver can be 'Aimed' with a 'Lazer-Leveler-Inclonometer'...presumably at the Rearview Mirror, and/or absolutely LEVEL to the Pantera.

* Blind holes! As I did not want to see the Exit Bores of the Screws, in the Rearview Mirror...Forever! This makes the Drilling/Tapping Operations, Infinitely More Difficult! A 'Thread Forming' Tap (Not a 'Cutting' Tap) is used for this Soft Material, because It Does Not Produce Chips that will Tear-up the Threads. The Beam is 0.500" High. The Blind Holes are Drilled to a Depth of 0.4601". It is Not My idea to be Accurate to the 4th Place. It is Automatically in the Programming of the 'Tormach 770'. 0.4601" just enough Threading to hold a 1/4-20 Machine Screw, Secure. With a Theoretical 'Bottom Cloiser' of 0.0399" thick! In the Final assembly 'Lock-Tite' BLUE will be used.

** This is why it was Paramount that they Be Absolute, one behind the Other in Exact Alignment!!

Hi there, they are looking great, and it seems that there is alot of interest in them,was looking at the picture of the Lamborghini louvers and the the thing I think that sets them apart is the miminal number of slats,so I went out and quickly mocked up these out of foam core(please forgive the crude mock up) to see what they might look like....what do you all think about this style,to me its looks more modern,but hey, that's just me!        Also made these covers for the window crank plug, any interest in these?

@Lane hawley I like the look

...I think your work looks 'Absolutely Fabulous!!' You're on to something here, yours' looks more like the Lambo than My Work!. Shop around for the Aluminum, if that's the material you plan to use. I purchased my Aluminum on Ebay, 2 pieces, 24" x 48". My only suggestion is that You have a Professional 'Cut' it for You. Unless You do have access to a 4 Foot Shear.

Keep at it!! Between You and I, I think we have Started something here! Work on Exacting Your Measurements! (Spacing) Looks Like You have the 'Angles' Down Pat!

All the best to Your Completion! Keep Us posted, right 'here' if You Like.

Thanks, all the people on the forums help to inspire each other, I think I can make these also with no holes drilled,hate to damage the bodywork, I want to be able to return it to stock with miminal work

Was just thinking about what to use, like you I thought of aluminum, but sitting here looking at them,I think I could use a flat sheet of carbon fiber,would be plenty stiff for span, easy to shape,and virtually weigh nothing. I could either clearcoat or paint it with little prep. Thanks for the encouragement, I think I have some patterns to make!

...Lane, your use of Carbon Fiber, would be superb! Bring us into the '3rd Millenium'!! Modernize these Panteras. I urge you to continue, Do It! (I) personally, would Not paint the Carbon Fiber, it would look Beautiful, just on it's own!! Lane, my last suggestion to you, as All of my Teachers and Mentors, 'Demanded' of Me..."Draw It Up!!" As in a Blueprint, all mistakes and Flaws will be revealed, in-time to fix it, before Cutting.

@marlinjack posted:

...Of course the Magnets will leave an Impression. I will put Thin Leather Underneath, this will help. I already have Electronics mounted on the Deck with Magnets, not a Problem.

The alternative is to drill into the Steel Decklid. Paint can be Fixed, Holes are a Little Harder to Repair.

Bottom Line, I don't really care about the Paint, Not going to show, anyway. I consider it, just Another 'Battle Scar'!

Is there an easy way to release the magnetic resistance of 400 pounds each to the deck sheet metal in the future if necessary without damage?

Here are some pics to add to the discussion. They show how the size of the slats can effect the overall appearance.

Here is another picture of Pantera louvers. These have a single spine down the middle. I believe that these are the Mind Train ones?

I count 12 slats on this one and the deck painted satin black beneath it blends in to extend the look of the slats into the deck lid.

...Great Photo , Thanks for Posting.

The '400' Pound magnets were listed on Ebay as 'Fishing Magnets'. I bought 2 of the Smallest Round. I think they are closer to 80-100 Lbs??

An Easy release? 12 Volt DC Electro-Magnets, would be a Great Idea of Yours! ON, only while the Engine is Running!?

@marlinjack posted:

...Great Photo , Thanks for Posting.

The '400' Pound magnets were listed on Ebay as 'Fishing Magnets'. I bought 2 of the Smallest Round. I think they are closer to 80-100 Lbs??

An Easy release? 12 Volt DC Electro-Magnets, would be a Great Idea of Yours! ON, only while the Engine is Running!?

I do like YOUR idea of the easy-release. It is a great idea. I'd go with that if I change.

How the heck do these magnets get applied to fishing? Are fish magnetic?

...That Last Photo, I like That Look Best with the Louvers 'Tucked' Down between the Deck Sides and More Streamlined.

Last Night, I finished the 'Cold Thread  Forming' Tapping of the 28 Blind screw holes. The 'Tap' (see photo) has No cutting flutes. It Squeezes/Swages the threads into the Soft Aluminum. It takes 100% more force to work it. It worked perfectly, feeling as if it could snap at any moment. Happy to report, No Errors. Will do a trial fit of all slats, today. No countersinks or deburring, yet. Will Post a Photo after.

Great Tap! the Only way to do Aluminum! No Chips to Gaul up the Threads, and they are Much Stronger because No Metal was removed and they were 'Cold Forged'!   

...Photos of the very first testing assembly to check Screw Spacing and the Accuracy of the Louver positions. In the first pic, one can Not see the 'Taper' from Top to Bottom.

All went well. Everything was in Perfect Alignment and all positioning was Correct! They just 'Look' out of Place.

One Must understand that all these screws were just started-in. They are Not yet shimmed and Not at all Tightened. The Slats are pretty much just hanging on, but are True!

I am very Satisfied with the Results of My work. Still waiting on the arrival of a few parts, and Start Machining the Forward Mounting.

Questions are Welcome,

Thank You

...the Camera has made these look as if the Slats descend to a less wide measure, when in fact All 7 Louvers are Equal to Each Other at 6.00" Wide.

I add better photos, Still not Countersunk, not yet Spaced under the lower screws to achieve angles. Top screws are Tightened and all Bores not C. Sunk. One can see how shimming under the 2 Lower Screws, which are now loose, an Angle can be adjusted to Pivot on the Upper 2 Screws. Aimed 'Level' to Sight, then all are tightened.

...After Counter-Sinking the Bores, All Screw Heads will be Flush. I Think I will Assemble all, then Paint.

...Latest Photos, Text to follow.

...The Curvature Alignment Revealed. How did I get the Curvature this Accurate?? I placed Both 'Beams', Clamped together, Between Two '4 x 4's', and Stepped on them Jumping 5-6 Times, with My weight at 262 Lbs. Biased towards the Front End. This took a Lot of effort, the Aluminum, although SOFT, was hard to bend. Just what I needed to support 14.7 Pounds of Aluminum, at 160 MPH! When both pieces Must be Curved Exactly to each Other. they must be bent Simultaneously, doing them separately, they would be Impossible to Match!

Next pics, Working on the forward mounting, Hidden. Beams have been shortened to Not show in the Rear...Only the Last Louver will ever be seen in the Rearview. Rubber pads may be used in conjunction with the (2) Magnet, Yoke and Pin, to adjust the final Height of the Twin Beams.

Photos: The First slat to the Mounting, is Fitted. 2nd Slat is checked for fit and Not yet set for Angle.

In the Next Posting of Photos, I will show how All Louvers will be Aligned with 'Absolute Accuracy' !!

Thought you may want to see the Dish Marlin cooked Saturday Night.

'Butcher Shop Pork Chops' 1 Inch thick. Smothered in a 'Caramelized Onion' Cream, Sauce. 3 Chops cut into 6 'Medallions', Sear Very Well on HIGH, Lower to Med-Hi 5 mins per side (NO Pink in the Center), 32 Oz, equal beef/chicken stock. 3 Garlic Cloves, 3 Onions, 4 Heaping Tbs The Best Flour on Onions when Caramelized, 1/3 Cup Whole Cream. Top with Rosemary and Tyme. Cooking time 45 Mins. Season Pepper and Salt.

Marlin can achieve many things beside Building a Pantera and 351C Engines. Loves to cook, as well as Play the Violin, Scottish-Irish Fiddle.

Wait until you see What comes Next!!

...The 'Superior Judge' (Wife), thought the Dish was Delicious!!

Marlin, my wife makes her pork chops very similar to yours.  Best way to prepare pork chops.  I will take an invite next time you make your chops.  Larry

...All mounted to Level with a Lazer Inclinometer.

...Inclinometer is Zeroed on the Level Roof, Slats brought Up to Level. Exposed Rear of deck, not covered is Exactly 5.00", as Calculated. Last Louver Turned-Up Like a Spoiler. Slats 3 through 6, Not Leveled Yet.

@marlinjack posted:

...Inclinometer is Zeroed on the Level Roof, Slats brought Up to Level. Exposed Rear of deck, not covered is Exactly 5.00", as Calculated. Last Louver Turned-Up Like a Spoiler. Slats 3 through 6, Not Leveled Yet.

Looking Good Marlin! Happy New Year!

looks great,looking forward to all in place and leveled up and painted. You are motivating  me to get going on the mock up on mine, see if it merits making it in carbon Fibre. Great work,successful new year already  started for you!

Marlin,

Can you show a rear view and also what it looks like from inside the car? Thanks!

@Rob Fridenberg posted:

Marlin,

Can you show a rear view and also what it looks like from inside the car? Thanks!

...New photos as requested, Rearview and from Inside the Vehicle. (In More than One Posting)

With temporary spacers installed, to photo 'close' angles. Permanent parts to arrive soon.

Rearview from inside Vehicle also through the Rearview Mirror. The Long 'Tube' in image is the Electric Antennae moved out of the way, during work.

Pics, Viewing from Rear of the Pantera, Looking Forward.

The Air Cleaner Box can be seen centered, from inside. Mirror View Sites straight through the Center of the Window, between the Twin Support Beams.

Plenty of Light coming in, seeing Images in Not a Problem!

Questions Welcome,

Thank You   

...To finish Loading:

hi Marlin, those really did take shape after screwing the down, they look great!

So I have a done a little more serious mock up on my louver design, spacing is equal all around, bottom slat a little short, didn't want to cut another piece of wood, so want do you guys think, should I go ahead and order the carbon fiber or not?   Let me know what you think,won't hurt my feelings!

...How about some Great Feelings! In My View, Your Measuring and Craftsmanship is a Lesson in Perfection! I like Mostly the Direct Rearview showing the 3 Louvers Perfectly Horizontal, Very Accurately Spaced and Angled. You NAILED It!!

I think You Out-Did the Lamborghini! Congratulations on Designing an Outstanding 'Triple Louver'! I like to say..."The ONLY One of it's Kind in the Entire Universe!!" Your Design, There are NO Others Exactly Like It!

I think You're ready to Obtain that Carbon Fiber!! Do You have an Design of how to Secure it to the Deck? If Not, Consult an Expert.

Remember! These Panteras can 'Easily' Break 140+ MPH!

Again, Congratulations, Beautiful!! Your Work Well-Done!

Love That BLUE!

Thank You for Coming back and Posting the Photos!! It's a real Pleasure to see Your Pantera! Eye Candy!

Marlin,

Looking great! Looking forward to seeing the finished pics.

I like both designs very much and the ingenuity. Lane maybe your spacing is a little wide for my preference, but then again it looks great from the back. I think that plane line is similar to the Delorean but wider spacing. Although I absolutely hate bringing up Delorean because I have had my car referred to as one a couple times by people that know no better (or can't read DeTomaso) the DMC louvers concept is not a bad one all one peice that sits inside the sugar scoop. Also it appears to open with a similar strut as our decklid. I believe the DMC louvers were originally fiberglass, but I could be wrong.

Marlin your metal work and ability to create something from an idea to something functional in such a short period of time is remarkable.

Or this one from ProvaMo

Nice work, Marlin Jack!

On Thu, Jan 2, 2025 at 6:14 PM The De Tomaso Forums <alerts@crowdstack.com>
wrote:

...Next Up, A Counter-Sink Depth Gage for 82 Degree Flush-Head Allen SS Machine Screws In 0.090" Aluminum Sheet.

Photo, Proof of Flush. Absolute! Light will Not Show under a Steel Straight-Edge.

(2) Magnetic Mounts for the 'Twin Beams', with Clevis and Quick Disconnects. To Adjust the Height and Hold the Tail Secure. Stainless.

Sweet,they will just disappear, clevis pin allows for no paint damage, well thought out,look forward to finishing!

...Countersunk washers to clear Flat-Head Screw 'Cone' Taper. Cone is .200" Deep. 0.090" is taken up by the Sheet Aluminum. Can't Countersink the 'Beam', that would eliminate much needed threads. So I counter-sink the 0.121" Thick 1/4" Washer, 0.110" Deep, The Just clear...with a couple of 1000th's more, for 'Crush' on the Louver.

Look Close at the Height/Spacer Assembly. With the screw thread into the Beam a Minimum of 0.240" IN, it gives a Height of 0.750", measured from the Beam to the TOP of the Louver, Maximum. If I need more Height, I change the 1" Length Screws for 1-1/4". See Countersunk washers, and (2) Flange Screws, Jam Nut set-up. Easily Adjust the Height to '0' on the Inclinometer At X and Y, and Lock it In!! Job Done!!

...Closer Detail of Full Assembly. All Stainless.

...The Two 'Front' Screws, will just be the 5/8" Flat-Head Screws and One, Countersunk Washer. Also acts as a 'Load Spreader' and relieves the 'Taper'. I can also, Countersink the Top Flange Nut and Eliminate the Washer all together. That would 'Expose' More Threads for adjustments. And a 'Cleaner' Assembly.

...Waiting on the Aluminum Plate for the Forward Mounting. Starting on Positioning Rear Mounts. 1,3,5, and 7 Louvers.

...spending 2 days rejuvenating a Large Coy Pond and 2 Waterfalls...in my backyard. Had it for 20+ years, was Well Overgrown. Working on Night 'Glow' Lighting and New Pumps to run off the Solar array I designed and built 4+ Years ago.

Got in Tonight and was able to work on the Aluminum Plate that Finaly, Arrived.

That's a 0.187" (3/16") Aluminum Plate 4" Wide and 36" Long to be Trimmed to Lock in and under the Inner Ceiling with a 'Bank-Vault' Cloiser.

You'll Notice in the first pic, the screw holes are 'Biased' to Make a Light rise in the Center of Louver #1. This Exactly Matches the Decks' curved Roofline, and locks into the Groove Lip. The #1 Louver ends on the Backside, perfectly Straight, and carries that level to the Other 6 Slats.

The Plate goes forward and butts with little clearance,  into the Ceiling, Flush with-in the 'View'.  The Plate will be trimmed to Clear the Hinges, but left too Long to come out of the Opening. Remember...145+ MPH, that's the Fastest I've ever had Her, and there was More to Go. Primer and paint comes Next. The wing goes back on.

Pics to Follow:

Questions?

Latest Photos:

Here they are in black,I'm leaning towards ordering the carbon fiber,wasn't  sure when just in raw wood, I guess I'm seeking opinions.....still looking  forward  to yours marlin,nice to see unique /updated designs

...In a Word...WoW!! Very Nice. I Like it! I like it a LOT!!

Right now I'm finishing up on the 'Attachment' to the Deck Hinge Pins, all Stainless. And I started Painting the Louvers Yesterday. After Grey Primer, All Backside and Under,  is Flat Black. Only the Top Surface of Each Louvers is GLOSS Black.

I want Minimal 'Shine' in the Rearview Mirror.

Getting Closer, PIcs to follow.

@Lane hawley  - I like the look.  The question I have for everyone regarding Louvers, is there any benefit in having louvers, or is it just the look?  Thanks for sharing.  Larry

@Lardog posted:

@Lane hawley  - I like the look.  The question I have for everyone regarding Louvers, is there any benefit in having louvers, or is it just the look?  Thanks for sharing.  Larry

Ooo, good question. In my case yes.

My explanation is that when you go to the Weber carb set up, the two carbs closest to the back of the car stick out from the protection of the roof overhang.

With open velocity stacks that makes them more susceptible to sucking in and swallowing anything that can fall into the open stack.

With the louvrers in conjunction with the "sugar scoop" roof spoiler, I was able to better protect them from that hazard or at least reduce the likeliness of it happening, including getting water into the stacks while washing the car.

For most that isn't necessary but if you look at Marlin's dual carburetors on a Wieand tunnel ram intake, you can also see that the back carb is out from under the roof as well.

This is the picture with EFI throttle bodies but that is just the evolution from the Webers into this century.

@Lardog posted:

@Lane hawley  - I like the look.  The question I have for everyone regarding Louvers, is there any benefit in having louvers, or is it just the look?  Thanks for sharing.  Larry

i wonder if they would keep air "attached", thus reducing drag and having that air velocity provide improved ventilation from engine.

Lardog,for me it's just for the look, at the velocities I travel at,aero isn't playing a very big part ! Just an old most of the time slow guy

1/20/2025

...Cutting Mounting Plate to Clear Hinges, for Brackets to pivot on Pins.

...Continuing

...Photos text to follow:

...I needed a section of '90 Degree Angle' in Stainless Steel, to machine the Mounting brackets for each support beam at the mounting plate, to the Hinge Pins. A single length of stainless Angle Stock is too expensive, so I started with these already bent brackets in 1/4" thick stainless steel, 2" Squares. Non-Magnetic. After an hour-plus with a Hack-Saw and a Little Cutting on the CNC Mill, I produced this 'One' Bracket, due to be Polished! This Steel is Super Hard! Wore-Out the Saw Blades. The Hinge Pin slides through the single hole on Tab (Red Dot), as a Pivot. The Other Side Bolts to the Under-Side of the Plate with (2) Bolts...Hidden (2 Red Dots)

I'm not the best Painter, but I did My best. There may be room for a Re-Painting, waxing, buffing.

After De-Burring, the Slats were cleaned with Acetone, Gray primered on Both sides and 4 Edges, then Painted Flat Black on the Backsides, with the Exposed TOP-Side and Edges, Painted Gloss Black.

Soon, finish the second bracket, complete the paint on the Beams, Mounting Plate and Magnet Mounts...then the 'Fun' Part...Final Assembly with Spacers and Shims! Then Photos.

I will be Machining new Hinge Pins in Stainless Steel. I will Machine a Few For Sale Here, along with a New Stainless Pin for the Front Bonnet Hood Latch. Most All Original Pins are all in Rust.

...a Important Correction!

Earlier I stated 'the 1/4-20 Machine screws will thread into the Support Beams, a Min. of 0.240" ', Wrong! The Correct Thread Depth is a Min. of 0.450"- 0.460", Into the 0.500" 'High' Aluminum Bar, for a Secure Mount in a 'Blind' Hole.

Thank You 

...replacing lost photos

...More of cutting brackets

...Brackets drill for Precision Alignment to the Deck Hinge Pins. This was a Very Crucial Measurement, as this positions the First Louver to the 'Roof Edge', and The Beams are Mounted Stainless Studs, I Machine from Bolts. All Slats follow.

The 1st Mounted Slat is Clamped with 4 Studs and Thumbscrews. Because they are More Rigid than a Screw, and prettier than a Common Nut. Plus the Studs are angled and help keep the Louver, Forward against the Roofline.

Last Pic, the Last Three Parts I need to Paint, and the Chrome Magnets, and the Acorns to keep the Shine, in the Rearview, down. 

...The Flathead Screws need to be trimmed to flush. I need to Machine Beefier Stainless Pins.

Then...Final Assembly with Measured and Machined, Spacers, in Aluminum. All 7 Slats aimed where they should be, just 'Below' Level.

I going to Drop the idea of a 'Double Jam-Nut' (they would add too much weight). Things we can't Predict until the Actual Assembly Process.

Stay Tuned...

...How to turn Stainless Decklid Pins, Trim a countersunk screw Head, Flush, True the Axis of Tailstock Live Center to Zero Error, mount brackets to support Plate and More.

...More

Nice Pins!  Very cool!

Way to go👍

I reckon Marlin will be able to offer these louver sets for sale at around $25,000 per set in knock down kit form.

Delivery extra .....!

Percy – I laughed, but I know for a fact, Marlin has a lot of hours into these things!

(I know your comment was a light-hearted one!)

I have just taken a job as the Junior Assistant Apprentice Machinist at the Old Pueblo Trolley Machine Shop and everything that I try to do takes about four times what I expect it will!

What’s that old Machinist saying? You can have it fast, with high quality, and cheap.

Pick Two!

(…. and you’re unlikely to ever get high quality & cheap, no matter how long it takes!)

Rocky, Congrats on Your Position as 'Main Machinist-Floor Supervisor'! I concur...I have often said, Gathering up all the Tooling, Instruments, Set-Up, More, can Easily take Longer than an 'Hour'...Just to Perform a 3 Minute Operation!!

...I have been wanting to recommend this Book for some time.

Any of the members reading this whom have picked up a Drill and Other, to perform 'Machining' Work...Can and will benefit from reading this book. Not cover to cover, but just what you're interested in Learning. Even those with 60+ Years of Machine Shop Experience, will find something in this book, they did Not Know!

As far as 'Machining', if it is NOT in this Book, or another Edition...'It' just Does NOT Exist!

I have had this 22nd Edition since July 1986, I have found No need to purchase a Newer Edition, they are up to the 32nd, now $108.00. I paid $27.00 for this one, and Many can be found on Ebay, for even Less.

I strongly suggest you become a New Owner of One!! The Knowledge Gained Here is Engrossing and Festinating. 2512 PAGES.

Good-Luck and Happy Machining!

Enjoy the Reading!

...Machinists Also say,

"An Emergency on Your Part, Does NOT constitute a Emergency On Mine!"

I remember one Job I was doing. I was working on 3 Tiny, 90 Degree Stainless Steel Gearboxes, that were going into a Satellite to Extend Solar Panels. So Small You could hold them in Your Hands! This was late in the Evening-Overtime. I was 'Polishing to FIT' 0.5000" Diameter Shafts, back and forth from test fitting to Lathe. multiple times. While the NASA Engineer Stood Over Me Watching, as I Assembled, and Torqued,  all 3!! I believe they had to be +- 0.0001" Because they were designed to Handle ALL Extremes of Hot and Cold! and NO Grease!!

As far as I know, that Satellite is Still in the Solar System, Or Farther Out. I was Not Told which One it Was, or even the 'Why' they had Me Working on It. NASA does have their own Machine Shops, I Thought.

I put the Gearboxes in his hands, and the Man turned and Left in a hurry, Satisfied...Not even a Thank You!

Marlins' Quote. "You Can't RUSH Precision!" and I was once Accused of 'Moving Too Slow' through the Shop, during My evaluation! My reply, "I take offense of that Madam! If I were to Move through this Shop, any Faster, I'd Be RUNNING!"

All Finished but Cutting screws to length.

Screws are jammed into the Beam with a inverted Brass Knurled Thumb Nut, tightening the Louver upwards, to Jam against the Screw Head. That makes each Louver Infinitely Adjustable for Angles, and Locking. Fingerprints are do to be wiped off.

The wing will be left off while testing.

...Slats Not Fully Battened down. One Louver drooping and needs to be tweaked.

The #1 Louver is mounted to the hinge plate, with Thumb Screws and can be removed with the Hands to access the Carburetor.

The exposed Deck in the Rear is 5-1/4" Wide.

Amazing!

...the beam height is adjusted by shimming under the Yokes. With final spacing under Louvers to achieve Exact Angle, using the Knurled Thumb Nuts. (see pic)

#1 Louver, screws are Adjusted to Forward position to Mate with the Decklid Roofline, LIP.

...Thumb Nut Adjuster.

...The next photos will be the Last, Finished Pictures that will End this Thread.

Thank You All for Your Interest! It has been quite the Learning Experience.

...out Saturday Night testing the Neon Tailights. All day running the Louvers, very satisfactory. Working on 3rd Slat.

Many More Photos to follow!

More. Notice temporary mounting of rearview camera. FM Antennae extended.

...It was a very nice Nighttime Cruize! Everybody Enjoyed the Pantera.

See You on the 'Highway of Broken Dreams'.

Hi Marlin

Any idea on the final weight of the assembly ?

...with all the Screws, thumb nuts and washers, and adding the 'Mounting Plate', about 16.5 Lbs. Not including the Stainless Pins and Hinge Brackets. The Louvers ran well! Surprisingly Quite! No Banging, no rattles or squeaks. Very little vibration. Some light flutter at a couple of ends, but ending. I thought they might 'Whistle', but No, Silence! I'm very happy with the Outcome. Don't want to put the Wing back on...but probably Will.

All the Best,