Adam, sorry this is our first communication, would have much preferred to meet over a beer.
How do you have the car insured......estated value? or market value? I ask this in the case AIG gets difficult, and you need to start a claim with your carrier.
The car was hit in the quarter panel? IMHO the motor and fuel tank NEED to be removed, not only do you want the outside of the quarter repaired, you want the "witness" markes addressed on the back side of the panel (a good place for future corrosion to start)and the only way to do this is with clear access to the area.
The body of the Pantera is a unibody, and all outside panels were seemed at the factory before they were painted: ie: no cut off breaks to panel paint. If your vehicle was in my shop, I would bid this repair to include complete dissasembly of the exterior trim to include all exterior lamps, emblems, bumpers, and glass. The "shell" of the car needs to be painted complete.
The kicker here, they will probably not pay to paint the hood, deck lid, headlamp doors, or passanger door. They owe to blend the drivers door for color match though. Blend Info attached.
The file was too big, I can email to your regular email if you like.
Feel free to call me 949-795-1991
Cheers Mark 6808
Adams,
I'm sorry to hear of the damage to your car. Truly a shame. But I'm thankful that it's relatively minor as far as accidents go and neither you nor your son (or anyone else in your family) were involved in the accident.
Ditto what everyone else already said; lots of great advice here. It will be fixed.
Happy Birthday anyway! After all, you have much to be thankful for!
Cheers!
Garth
I'm sorry to hear of the damage to your car. Truly a shame. But I'm thankful that it's relatively minor as far as accidents go and neither you nor your son (or anyone else in your family) were involved in the accident.
Ditto what everyone else already said; lots of great advice here. It will be fixed.
Happy Birthday anyway! After all, you have much to be thankful for!
Cheers!
Garth
Adams! So sorry to hear what happened. I hope everything works out ok at the end.
Regards,
-William
Oh, and Happy Birthday!
Regards,
-William
Oh, and Happy Birthday!
Hey Adams,
It was meant to be.
Now you can paint the car yellow and start picking up chicks
Best of luck.
It was meant to be.
Now you can paint the car yellow and start picking up chicks
Best of luck.
Wow Sorry to hear about your misfortune,but I must stress the importance of who will be repairing the car.If you have large dents from the accident I would suggest you ask to see the car in bare steel before paint so that you can make sure the repair was done correctly with the least amount of bodyfill as possible.If you are not happy with the repair I would ask for complete panel replacement Sorry just my 2 cents
Adams,
Man that's the pits, but on your birthday too it just adds insult to injury. I feel for you.
Lot's of good advice already. In my younger days in the UK I had a British Racing Green Triumph Stag. I was witing to turn right and a guy clips my rear left fender not paying attention. Anyway to cut a long story short the rear fender is a bitch to fit on the Stag, found out after the fact the shop cut the new fender, used only teh rear half by seem welding it in the middle of the wheel arch to save on work. I had a fit when I found out, they siad it was standard practice. From then on I have always made a point of dropping in any shop to check on progress of my vehicle first hand. The shop also could not match the BRG paint exactly it would be just off color in certain lights, so in teh end they ended up painting the whole car. It might not look it but the green is a difficult color to match especially in a 30 yr old tone that has faded and as soemone said even if you natch it today wil it fade differently 6 months or a year down the road.
Get your insurer involved on your behalf to help fight the claim for you and good luck.
Man that's the pits, but on your birthday too it just adds insult to injury. I feel for you.
Lot's of good advice already. In my younger days in the UK I had a British Racing Green Triumph Stag. I was witing to turn right and a guy clips my rear left fender not paying attention. Anyway to cut a long story short the rear fender is a bitch to fit on the Stag, found out after the fact the shop cut the new fender, used only teh rear half by seem welding it in the middle of the wheel arch to save on work. I had a fit when I found out, they siad it was standard practice. From then on I have always made a point of dropping in any shop to check on progress of my vehicle first hand. The shop also could not match the BRG paint exactly it would be just off color in certain lights, so in teh end they ended up painting the whole car. It might not look it but the green is a difficult color to match especially in a 30 yr old tone that has faded and as soemone said even if you natch it today wil it fade differently 6 months or a year down the road.
Get your insurer involved on your behalf to help fight the claim for you and good luck.
quote:Originally posted by Murph:
Hey Adams,
It was meant to be.
Now you can paint the car yellow and start picking up chicks
Best of luck.
WAS THAT MY ONLY PROBLEM!?!?!? Man, if I'd only known! I tried to order the paint, but the guy said the Oscar Meyer Weiener mobile got the last gallon of that yellow. (Green jokes soon to ensue.)
Man, you guys have been remarkable on this. I went to the car today for the first time, camera in hand. Not as bad as my paranoia had predicted, but a mashed in place between the wheelwell and gas tank. Wrinkled the wheel lip, mostly below the belt line.
Am awaiting the call from his adjuster. BTW, it was suggested by Joules to get with MY company (Haggerty) which was good advice too.
Mark 6808 and others mentioned the 'inner' parts of this damage and that's yet to be determined, but all your info will add up to a more credible presentation.
And I hope I didn't sound complainy on my birthday thing, because I had a great day...
Played in the garage, saw my son play baseball, built a chandelier (mostly), went to dinner, had fun. Sure, the Pantera got dented too, but the members here reminded me of the great value of your expertise and friendships. All's well.
Just read this thread Adams, what a bummer, I am sure it is frustrating but from reading your other posts i know you are ever the optimist and your enthusiasm will win over.
The only thing is you may now have no choice but to take the Boxer out more, at least for a while.
Best of luck
Steve
The only thing is you may now have no choice but to take the Boxer out more, at least for a while.
Best of luck
Steve
Thanks Steve. You're right, I DO need to drive that other car more! (Interior is out right now while I do some leather work in that car. So I'm in the Viper these days.)
The Pantera insurance 'dance' has only just begun, but it's gonna turn out fine. Thanks again. I'll keep you posted.
The Pantera insurance 'dance' has only just begun, but it's gonna turn out fine. Thanks again. I'll keep you posted.
Another thought on the gas tank. If you decide to go ahead with the body work without pulling the tank, be SURE to go to the body shop before the work is started and tell the most intelligent looking adult employee that they CANNOT drill that panel and use hammer pullers to pull out the dent. Inform them that the GAS TANK is on the other side of that panel and you DO NOT want holes drilled in it.
As a matter of fact...go to each employee one at a time and inform them individually.
I had lots of minor damage under my chassis from misplaced jacks. I had it all repaired before I took my car to the body shop. I specifically and pointedly told this to the body shop manager and showed him where to jack the car and where not to. I came into the shop to check on my car and one of their fine employees had put two jacks under the drivers side to tip the car up on two wheels to make working on the rocker panel easier for him. You guessed it...he stuck the jacks right on the repaired areas and crushed them. It was clear that this was not the first time or place that this had been done by them.
I pulled the car out of that body shop immideately and took it elsewhere. I was so pissed I didn't even ask them to repair the damage.
Of course the point is...trust no one. Be a pain in their ass. No matter how competent they might seem, monitor their work.
Mooso
As a matter of fact...go to each employee one at a time and inform them individually.
I had lots of minor damage under my chassis from misplaced jacks. I had it all repaired before I took my car to the body shop. I specifically and pointedly told this to the body shop manager and showed him where to jack the car and where not to. I came into the shop to check on my car and one of their fine employees had put two jacks under the drivers side to tip the car up on two wheels to make working on the rocker panel easier for him. You guessed it...he stuck the jacks right on the repaired areas and crushed them. It was clear that this was not the first time or place that this had been done by them.
I pulled the car out of that body shop immideately and took it elsewhere. I was so pissed I didn't even ask them to repair the damage.
Of course the point is...trust no one. Be a pain in their ass. No matter how competent they might seem, monitor their work.
Mooso
Wow Mooso, thanks for that. In fact, to ALL who've been over-the-top helpful.
Yesterday the appraiser suggested, "8.5 hours" to redo the work. We had a longish discussion about 'blending' and why I'm opposed, and told him that I would not even be on the phone with him if this was my wife's Honda Pilot, but planned on being a pain in the neck on this car.
This thread has given me more than a little needed and appreciated ammunition in the war on mediocrity. Thanks again!
Yesterday the appraiser suggested, "8.5 hours" to redo the work. We had a longish discussion about 'blending' and why I'm opposed, and told him that I would not even be on the phone with him if this was my wife's Honda Pilot, but planned on being a pain in the neck on this car.
This thread has given me more than a little needed and appreciated ammunition in the war on mediocrity. Thanks again!
Adams,
So sorry to have to be following this saga. I really admire your positive thinking and outlook on this situation. If you need any pictures of the engine bay, gas tank, area with and without the tank to "help" your cause with an unfamiliar adjuster or shop I have them all from # 3463's resto.
...sure hope the 10" Campy's were spared...
Dave # 3463
So sorry to have to be following this saga. I really admire your positive thinking and outlook on this situation. If you need any pictures of the engine bay, gas tank, area with and without the tank to "help" your cause with an unfamiliar adjuster or shop I have them all from # 3463's resto.
...sure hope the 10" Campy's were spared...
Dave # 3463
quote:Originally posted by BOXXBOYS:
Adams,
So sorry to have to be following this saga. I really admire your positive thinking and outlook on this situation. If you need any pictures of the engine bay, gas tank, area with and without the tank to "help" your cause with an unfamiliar adjuster or shop I have them all from # 3463's resto.
...sure hope the 10" Campy's were spared...
Dave # 3463
Dude, I'm about ready for a group hug! Thanks for the offer and I'll definitely keep it in mind. You think the Insurance company might have a problem that your car has had more spent on it recently than UPS spent on gas last month? Nah, maybe not.
Honestly, the 'inside' view might be helpful in the future and I'll remember the offer.
The 10" Campy's were spared! Yahoo! I actually was a bit concerned on that issue, but it appears no damage to tire or rim.
Thanks for weighing in. Will keep the saga going.
Okay, got the insurance estimate and all. Wickedly uniformed. "Blending 2 stage paint..." was all I needed to see.
We're now ready for Round 2. They know they muffed and are willing to see another bid.
So, I speak to the local guru of painting, who concurs with many of you here. He's to give me another estimate for a full repaint.
To be perfectly honest, though my paint is now clearly compromised, I'll have to think long and hard about a full repaint. I may live with the best "paintless" effort I can. Just a tough call to make. Sorry for my personal aside...
What I really need now is someone to chime in who knows the paint TYPE, Manufacturer, and even paint code/color of my car. Mine was merely known as "dark green" far as I know, but any more specifics would be GREAT.
Thanks to all. You're a huge help.
We're now ready for Round 2. They know they muffed and are willing to see another bid.
So, I speak to the local guru of painting, who concurs with many of you here. He's to give me another estimate for a full repaint.
To be perfectly honest, though my paint is now clearly compromised, I'll have to think long and hard about a full repaint. I may live with the best "paintless" effort I can. Just a tough call to make. Sorry for my personal aside...
What I really need now is someone to chime in who knows the paint TYPE, Manufacturer, and even paint code/color of my car. Mine was merely known as "dark green" far as I know, but any more specifics would be GREAT.
Thanks to all. You're a huge help.
Adams,
If I bought my specific Patera because of it's originality factor and it got hit, there may be a sense of disappointment, and loss of value that I may not want to accept. This may sound extreme, but if originality meant more to me than the particular Pantera itself, I might go after the insurance company to replace the whole car based on that aspect of my ownership/investment. They have to make you 'whole' for your loss, and by painting a panel, or the whole car, that could never again occur. A car's paint is only factory original once.
Like I said, it's an extreme point of view, but your posts over these past couple of years suggest that you crave originality more than most. These posts would support that case.
Michael
If I bought my specific Patera because of it's originality factor and it got hit, there may be a sense of disappointment, and loss of value that I may not want to accept. This may sound extreme, but if originality meant more to me than the particular Pantera itself, I might go after the insurance company to replace the whole car based on that aspect of my ownership/investment. They have to make you 'whole' for your loss, and by painting a panel, or the whole car, that could never again occur. A car's paint is only factory original once.
Like I said, it's an extreme point of view, but your posts over these past couple of years suggest that you crave originality more than most. These posts would support that case.
Michael
Adams,
I have the paint code at home on a can (#7024 is the same green) and can post later. Paints have come a long way in 30 years and the closest to original spec would probably be an enamel. I had to do some paint work and the only supplier I could get to mix the code was Sherwin Williams. That said the paint code is probably pretty useless (as it was to me) because the paint had faded over the years and the new paint "stood out like a sore thumb". You'll likely have to get a direct match to the paint color as it currently is on your car, which brings us full circle to earlier comments on paint matching.
I have the paint code at home on a can (#7024 is the same green) and can post later. Paints have come a long way in 30 years and the closest to original spec would probably be an enamel. I had to do some paint work and the only supplier I could get to mix the code was Sherwin Williams. That said the paint code is probably pretty useless (as it was to me) because the paint had faded over the years and the new paint "stood out like a sore thumb". You'll likely have to get a direct match to the paint color as it currently is on your car, which brings us full circle to earlier comments on paint matching.
Adams,
This is just my 2 cents (maybe 10 w/inflation!)But if your main concern is maintaining your car's originality than do not re- paint the entire car.
I disagree with some over the statement that you can never blend a proper match. This may be true of the average high volume body shop. It should not be a problem for a shop that specializes in high end exotic/classic vehicles.
I have friends that are mangers at the Lambo store here in Atlanta. A metallic yellow Murci ran in to a deer. The damage was minor to the front bumper and a slight crease in the leading edge of the hood. It required blending and I could not for the life of me tell where it had been painted/blended.
Personally I would pay more for car with a perfect repair than a total repaint. It is more likely that you will find new issues with a re-paint than you originally had. Expect to pay a minimum of $6K-$8K for a paint job equal to the not so great original paint job by "Tony". The body shop you select will most likely need to start with the original color code formula and than hand blend to match the exact shade now on your 30+ year old cat. I have seen this done with a red classic Jeep CJ and the match was perfect. It just takes finding the right shop.
Do NOT forget the diminished value component. You can get estimates from classic car appraisers and shove this on the adjuster. The diminished value can be highly subjective
(= grossly inflated for your benefit). It may be capped by your state law, so check with your insurance commission.
Take lots of digital pics of the damage for a future owner.The originality issue should not be a problem. It is not like the car was in a major chassis bending wreck !
Good luck and take your time with settling and selecting your shop.
Jeff
This is just my 2 cents (maybe 10 w/inflation!)But if your main concern is maintaining your car's originality than do not re- paint the entire car.
I disagree with some over the statement that you can never blend a proper match. This may be true of the average high volume body shop. It should not be a problem for a shop that specializes in high end exotic/classic vehicles.
I have friends that are mangers at the Lambo store here in Atlanta. A metallic yellow Murci ran in to a deer. The damage was minor to the front bumper and a slight crease in the leading edge of the hood. It required blending and I could not for the life of me tell where it had been painted/blended.
Personally I would pay more for car with a perfect repair than a total repaint. It is more likely that you will find new issues with a re-paint than you originally had. Expect to pay a minimum of $6K-$8K for a paint job equal to the not so great original paint job by "Tony". The body shop you select will most likely need to start with the original color code formula and than hand blend to match the exact shade now on your 30+ year old cat. I have seen this done with a red classic Jeep CJ and the match was perfect. It just takes finding the right shop.
Do NOT forget the diminished value component. You can get estimates from classic car appraisers and shove this on the adjuster. The diminished value can be highly subjective
(= grossly inflated for your benefit). It may be capped by your state law, so check with your insurance commission.
Take lots of digital pics of the damage for a future owner.The originality issue should not be a problem. It is not like the car was in a major chassis bending wreck !
Good luck and take your time with settling and selecting your shop.
Jeff
Adams,
I'm very sorry to hear of your loss to a very fine Original Car. I would have to say I had a very similiar experience when I shipped 6476 from Calif to NY only I wasnt a smart as most. I purchased the car from a dealer and he shipped it. I didnt put inurance on the car as he stated it was being shipped as cargo. So I track the car all the way to NJ the car sits there for 2 weeks and one night they call me and say they are delivering the car. The car arrives in my driveway and some young kid unloads the car and WAAAA LLLAAA its smashed .. Luckily he dropped it and took off .. I called the POLICE and filed a report and made my Girlfriend and her Mom sign documents that it arrived smashed ... to make a long story short it took me 11 months to make a settlement with the body shop and the Insurance co .. for about 12k and then the body shop tried to rip me off and never did any of the suspension work ... I ahd to chase him in the end to give me back 3500 because he never completed the work ... it was a night mare but I fought them to the end and eventually tore the entore car apart to do a complete resto ... mod.
Ron
I'm very sorry to hear of your loss to a very fine Original Car. I would have to say I had a very similiar experience when I shipped 6476 from Calif to NY only I wasnt a smart as most. I purchased the car from a dealer and he shipped it. I didnt put inurance on the car as he stated it was being shipped as cargo. So I track the car all the way to NJ the car sits there for 2 weeks and one night they call me and say they are delivering the car. The car arrives in my driveway and some young kid unloads the car and WAAAA LLLAAA its smashed .. Luckily he dropped it and took off .. I called the POLICE and filed a report and made my Girlfriend and her Mom sign documents that it arrived smashed ... to make a long story short it took me 11 months to make a settlement with the body shop and the Insurance co .. for about 12k and then the body shop tried to rip me off and never did any of the suspension work ... I ahd to chase him in the end to give me back 3500 because he never completed the work ... it was a night mare but I fought them to the end and eventually tore the entore car apart to do a complete resto ... mod.
Ron
Attachments
Images (1)
Adams,
Check the factory parts catalog page 10. They list 3 greens:
Medium Green V305
Aqua Green Metallic V306
Lime V307 (early frog green?)
They show 7 paint mfg.codes.
PM me if you need the page faxed.
Check the factory parts catalog page 10. They list 3 greens:
Medium Green V305
Aqua Green Metallic V306
Lime V307 (early frog green?)
They show 7 paint mfg.codes.
PM me if you need the page faxed.
quote:Originally posted by Pantera 4134:
Adams,
Check the factory parts catalog page 10. They list 3 greens:
Medium Green V305
Aqua Green Metallic V306
Lime V307 (early frog green?)
They show 7 paint mfg.codes.
PM me if you need the page faxed.
This is the most incredible forum. I'm overcome with thanks. My sweet wife and I walked to get the world's best fish taco, have a Margarita. I come home to briefly check if any one has responded - wow. Beyond appreciative.
Let's see - I coulda bought a car repainted 27 times, but I didn't. I bought original, so that's a point worth remaking to the Insurance Company and my occasionally-resident psyche.
Next, I'll get a quote for the full repaint, send to the Ins co and then see what kind of fist fight erupts. Probably meet in the middle.
My car must then be Medium Green V305. The painter mentioned Sherwin Williams, even though he more often paints in Glasurit. So if that's the right code, then I'm off to get that matched to the 'real' color as seen through the little spectrascope thingy at the paint store.
I so enjoy my car after the work that was done. The suspension is unreal. Sounds great. Just rolled 25k miles. The right color (for me), the right year, cold air, reasonable upgrades and overall condition. Did I mention I love it?
This'll work out right. The info has been incredible, as has the support. To be honest, I ain't that darn worried about it - I still have a good car and supportive pals to make sure "right" is done. Can that be wrong?