If you are looking for a nice fitting, reasonable front trunk seal, try this:
I just got mine at Amazon for $15, but now Amazon shows "out of stock" and a price of $40?
($40 is what Hall Pantera charges for their front trunk seal)
Anyway - it fits good and looks good. Maybe not exactly what you want for your 100% original, concourse car, but that's a choice you have to make.
Thanks, I need this on my car. I just looked and Summit has it for $23 and if you buy $75 worth of stuff, shipping is free. Now just to find another $50 to spend on my car!
Hello, All...
I am swapping out a Ford SVO master (or one from a small ranger pick-up - I've never been able to get the straight answer on it) to a Wilwood master and proportioning valve / distribution block from SACC.
I have a couple of questions for this august body of grey-bearded sliverbacks (as it were).
In Picture 1 - Has anyone seen this booster modification to adapt the booster to the two bolt American brake MC? Most everyone else uses an adapter block. This looks like it was done by welding two bolts directly into the booster body, and plugging the original holes. I am just curious if any of the vendors were doing this in the post-1985 timeframe? This came on my car from the PO, but I never got the opportunity to ask him about it.
I am wondering if the actuating rod can be pulled out of the booster without damage? it slides forward, but seems to have a stop up against the booster diaphragm. I am not sure that I really need to remove it.
The threaded part with the acorn nut on the pushrod... how far will that unscrew? It looks like I might need another 1/2" just based on measurements of the two masters. I am wondering if I will have to fabricate a longer one.
In the picture below.... the rear brake pipe connection which previously came out out of the distribution block.... That sure doesn't look like a "bubble flare" to me. It's a 1/2" nut... Looks like a good old USA flare to me.... but that's not supposed to be stock, is it?
Comments and advice appreciated.
Rocky
PS> Scott's setup of the Master / Proportioning Valve / Distribution Manifold looks really nice to me (some might call it "AMAZING"!)
It all integrates the manifold / valve together, it comes with bracketry/pre-bent tubing to mount to the MC, and gives you a brake light switch. You loose the shuttle valve function (and sensor for the dash light), but you don't need it.
I am running stock Girlings up front (with Porterfield R4-S pads) on vented rotors, and SACC / Wilwood rear calipers on the stock rear calipers.
I'll post up more pictures when I'm finished.
Bubble flares were used at the stock master and the stock proportioning valve. The shuttle valve does indeed use various sized IF connections.
love the reference of “amazing”. Nice internal joke for us old timers!!! Well done!
That whole discussion, and the intensity of that thread keep it continually in mind.
How can one forget such a jewel?
OBTW: I run one of those (amazing) pulleys myself.
"I am wondering if the actuating rod can be pulled out of the booster without damage? it slides forward, but seems to have a stop up against the booster diaphragm. I am not sure that I really need to remove it"
Chuck,
the actuating rod can be taken out. It looks like a "Valve". You might want to take it out in order to make length adjustments per the top crew in oder to optimize the gap between the main cylinder piston. The gap should be minimal, as it translates to the pedal play.
Only question I have ..how do you bleed the bath tube brake fluide reservoir ? I prefer the original model with the plastic container on top of the cylinder on which there are srew in adapters for a "automatic" bleeder container.
My main is by the way from a BMW 2002 got it from Mr Jäckel.
Matthias
Thanks, Matthias...
Yes.. I agree with your comment on the need to eliminate the space... I probably have about 1/2" (12-15mm) distance difference between the two MCs, with the Wilwood being longer. So I have to do something there.
I am just not sure how much I can screw the adjuster out of the rod. I guess I should first mark it with nail polish (my wife and daughters always wonder where their bright colors go to), and then just try and unscrew it.
The Wilwood MC comes with a "Bench Bleeder Kit" that allows you to cycle the fluid through the pump and back into the reservoir before you hook up the lines.
I've got some other things to do first (before I install the MC & fill with fluid), like sort out my plumbing, plan my routing, and decide which lines I will keep, and which lines I will replace. Also have to fix the carpet / felt under the old MC & distribution block.
Thanks for the tips!
Chuck
Chuck nail polish is a key "tool", did use it here as well, ok the color variety in my houshold is humangous..
No, I used the nail polis on the tip of the rod to finalize minimal gap, as measuring the gap is hard to do as no real ref. point. Several attempts in/out until binding then 1/4 to 1/2 half turn back of the booster push rod.
KEY is a good seal as well, the seal between the bake booster and the push rod (in my case the push rod part of the main). I had sever issue here as I lost vacuum, resulting in missfire of the engine in push mode. I added 2 rubber seals from the plumbing industry/forcet stuff, as there was a decent gap on the main side to accomodate this set up. Top result!
Matthias
Need some help...
Does anyone know where I can find either an adapter, or a reducing union for the rear brake line?
I need a female - female union:
One side 1/2"-20 for 3-16" line
One side 3/8" for 3-16" line.
I don't want to try and reflare the line in the car (under the brake booster).
OR: Maybe a 1/2"-20 (Female) - 12"-20 (Female) union.
Thanks -
Rocky
any good parts store should be able to help you,not your quickie parts store
Chuck, couldn't you also use a fitting to enlarge your 3/8" fitting up to 1/2" (see first picture below) and then just use a simple 1/2" to 1/2" flare union (second picture)? Fewer parts, shorter length and less chance for leaks.
Mike Mileski
Tucson, AZ
Good suggestion Mike.
I am at Merle’s Auto Parts now, and it’s a little more complicated.
They don’t make a reducer that jumps from 1/2-20 directly to 3/8-24, you have to go to a quarter inch first. But that string of three fittings (two reducers, and a union) is a lot better solution than what I was considering, which was far from ideal, as the brass coupler was pipe threads (tapered) and would have left a huge air pocket that would have been very hard to bleed.
Here's the solution I am going with.
I also heard from a friend (Thanks, Larry!) who suggested that reducer fittings are found on Ford Master Cylinders. I had not turned any of these up, but if anyone has a part number, this could be a single jump to a 3/8-24 union.
".......if you were looking for a fitting that would reduce the 1/2-20 flare nuts to the 3/8-24 ‘normal’ sized ones, the smaller of the two brass adapters installed into the various Ford iron master cylinders will do the job."
Rocky
Looks great. How many of you were there?
Had a fun day out with our newest Pantera owner (Stuart), who has brought Jack Furrier’s push button Pantera back to Tucson, Arizona!
It’s a very early car, with single slot wheels!
Rick P. from Green Valley came up, as did Jim & Jacki Fusco from Wilcox in their super awesome Mustang. It was great fun, and a super good breakfast!
Thanks to everyone for making the effort to come out!
Rocky
WOW Rocky !
After your prompt on the cross member, its taken me most of the afternoon to read though 5357s continuous thread - some of which I had seen, most of which I had missed.
I think I am only 65% of the way on 6997 on the various improvement as compared to where you have got to. Well done on documenting on what are some monumental tasks. The good news 6997 is in one piece at the moment running load and strong and straight as a benchrest rifle ! First time in a few months as I have been rebuilding the cooling system, another part of your posts that were very interesting to me.
All I can say is I still have a bit of a way to go but am going to finish this beast!
