Removal of pilot bearing "holder"

You really can't. You need to run a tap into it as if you are threading it. When the tap bottoms out it will press the bushing out of the crank.
The resulting procedure will thread the inside of the bushing.
It will remove too much of the bearing surface to be safe for long term heavy duty use.
You wouldn't want to hurt the input shaft of the transmission to save a $10 pilot bushing.

ONE - Forget the old one. Buy a new one machined by Marlin Jack from oilite. +/- $30

TWO - I have heard it told that after packing the bearing/crank recess with grease, you can use an old tranny input shaft or clutch alignment tool to push the old bearing out. Hammering on the shaft will cause the grease to hydraulically push the old bearing out.

NOTE - most of the new ones (perhaps why you want to save your old one) are not a true oilite/bronze piece but are cheapo overseas items with heavy iron content, capable of gouging/ruining a very expensive input shaft. If a new pilot bearing sticks to a magnet, don't use it!

Larry

I've been told hammering wet toilet paper into the middle of the bushing works too, in fact better than grease. Preferably un-used wet toilet paper, get my drift? Need a punch or other round blunt object that is just a bit smaller than the ID of the hole.

lol.....

Cummon George, how many people know the id of thier hole?

lol....

Doug, you earned your milk & cookies for the day!

It´s not the bearing I need to remove, It is the "snout" or holder for the bearing.
The bearing or the bushing is possible to remove by using a special extractor. No åproblem.
But to remove the "holder" that is the problem
I have tried the hydraulik thing with grease etc. But no help.
Heating the crank and cool the "holder" might do the trick, but I am afraid of damaging the crank.
Frode
#1155

Frode,

The flange that the flywheel bolts to, which has a recess machined into the middle for the pilot bushing, is one piece with the crankshaft.

your friend on the DTBB

The holder is the crankshaft. The pilot bushing sits in the crankshaft.
See George, now I am confused. I don't know if my ID is to big or too small.
See what you started?
Monsters from the ID Morbious!

Frode why do you need to remove the rear flange of the crank shaft ? its all one piece the bushing sits in a machined portion of the crank there is no reason I can think of to remove the flange where the flywheel sits.

I have used roller pilot bearings before but I prefer the oil inpregnated bronze bushing myself. Do a dry test run of the input shaft with the bearing on the bench or floor if possible or at least try it on the input shaft of the trans first.

Ron

Frode,

Perhaps a photograph will help?

The pilot bearing sits in the end of the crankshaft.

The flywheel is bolted to the same end of the crankshaft. The end of the crankshaft is a close fit into the hole in the center of the flywheel.

Three pieces - crankshaft, flywheel, pilot bearing.

Does your engine look different from this photograph?

Larry

I carefully cut mine out with a drimel until I could colapse it and remove it.

All the grease idea did was make a major mess.

Tried the tap idea to, once I got the bearing to stop tuning and I was actually able to tap it and pull, all it did was remove the inter race and bearings. The outer race remained.

Out came the drimel.

I'm using the bronze bearing from Marlin. So far so good. But I have been told by Dennis Quella to check it when I have to remove the gearbox for any reason to make sure it hasn't become oblonged and out of round.

So far so good after about 6000 miles.

I had to remove a roller pilot bearing and it was installed inside a bushing that came out very hard. I had to go buy a slide hammer to get that sucker out. (wanted one anyway) That thing was in there good and I was only able to get one finger of the slide hammer in the hole of the bushing but it came out finely. Then I installed the brass bushing like the above picture.

The crank I have been using has a "snout" in which the pilot bearing or pilot bushing is installed.
The crank I am to use does not have the snout.
There is a hole in center of the crank similar in diameter to the "snout" that is in my old crank. Maybe I just have to machine a new piece of metal, to press into the new crank, and leave the old crank as is.

Best regards
Frode
# 1155

The only thing you could be talking about is a pilot bearing that has come apart.
It must be the bearing race remaining in the crankshaft.
You may need a small grinder like a dremel to cut it out.
The flange that the flywheel bolts to, the ring that center the flywheel are all part of the snout.
They are all the flywheel flange.
If you are talking about not using it on the new crankshaft you couldn't possibly be talking about a Ford 351c engine.
Post pictures. That will help explain.
We're only trying to help you.

According to the picture from Larry.
The bushing in centre of the crank is the outer size of the bearing holder I want to remove from my old crank. So the bushing would replace my bearing holder and bearing. Is this bronze bushing available frome someone ?
Thks for good help.
Frode
#1155

The bronze bushing is available just about everywhere.
All the 221-260-289-302-351 engines use the same part.
You can even get it from a speed parts shop under the Moroso brand, Lakewood, and just about any of the other clutch manufacturers.
The part you were trying to remove is called the bearing race.
Bearings are not a great idea in an application like this. The bronze bushing is safer.

Frode,

Marlin Jack, a member of this bulletin board, manufactures & sells a pilot bushing that is quite popular & highly regarded. You can send him a private message & make arrangements to purchase one.

your friend on the DTBB

...If you can find a 'True' Oilite Bronze Bearing, for the 351C, that is great news to all of us! I was under the impression that it did Not exist. I was making them for a couple of years. Beefier than you'll ever find from 'Joe Blows Shop'. I stoped Machining them for a short while, as the 'Market' had become saturated and they were not selling. If you cannot locate what you want, I can be reached at pantera1974@verizon.net I will specially Machine your Bearing for you, but the price had to be raised as My cost was raised. I was 'Holding the line' at $25. I doubled that to $45. I will compromise and let them go for $35. Plus $4.05 Shipping and Handling; For any Pantera owner on this BB. They are the very best any amount of money can buy. The Price is Not All about the money, it is about the Emmense amount of time it takes to set-up and machine these things. There are aproximately 14 operations to finish ONE to 'Zero Error Concentricity'. And then locating and ordering the Oilite, in the first place. And I have been very busy back in school and on the Machinist job. I don't have as much free time as I used to. Good-Luck on your search, they'll be here if you need them...

Oilite!

Pilot Bearings...

quote:

The bronze bushing is available just about everywhere.

And if you put a magnet to those, they will stick. And that means cheap import with large amount of iron, not oilite bronze. Use them, and possibly wear down your ZF input shaft, at your own risk.

Or get one of Marlin's and do it right.

Larry

Good advice Larry. I didn't know about Marlin Jack.