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Didn't think OEM Corte & Cosso struts were rebuildable by mere mortals. I also thought that once the OEM struts collapsed, it would be possible to braze a lump near the bottom, tap it and attach a schrader valve so they could be aired up from a home (or gas station) compressor. But the reason they collapsed in the first place is a bad seal, so the airing-up would be a regular chore. And you'd need to be sure not to overpressurize or bad things will happen.

BTW, the reason people invert the struts is, the design does not have the boots fitted tightly to the moving rod, and there's a ledge around the top of the body, under the boot. So rainwater runs down the rod, collects on top of the strut and rusts both the strut and the rod.

I purchased a set of struts from LSTechnologies back in December.   I dealt with Nolan, who was very nice and helpful.  I had mentioned to him about the potential problem with too much pressure on the body panels.  He charged them with 80 lbs.  He said that he would recharge them for me if I felt that wasn’t enough pressure.  He also recommended installing the struts with the body(thicker part on top).  The little amount of oil in them would keep the seal lubricated, making them last longer.  The pair cost $70.  The part number is T10-10-430-360N.  He was great to deal with.

Last edited by jimmym

I've seen a couple of Panteras with self power rear deck lifts. What's nice about those is there is no load on the decklid when closed.

I've been trying to talk Jon Haas into building those but he thinks the market is too small (just me I guess) ?

He already has a set that works with a compressor, He built those before the prevalence of self opening doors in mini-vans but now the self powered lift cylinders are very common.

I'm one of those who upon changing out my originals for aftermarket versions, had the hinges torn out of the decklid.

I've got too many things in the oven now. I can't start another.



Last edited by panteradoug

I'm no mechanical engineer but I always thought the self power deck lid struts would put more pressure on the hinge & brackets during opening since they would be lifting the deck lid all by themselves. With my struts they have just enough pressure where I assist the movement with my hand along with the strut pressure so its not just the struts alone doing the work. I have been through many aftermarket struts failing or just too strong, but the ones I got from Pantera Parts Connection back in 2015 have just the right pressure and no issues with them as of yet. Plus I am wondering if all these aftermarket struts may just go bad with such excessive heat. Try touching yours next time you are out for a run, they get super hot. Anyway when I am out for a good run I slip these makeshift heat shields on them which seems to keep the heat down a bit. Not great for a show, but they just slip on & off.IMG_6740[1]


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Last edited by does200

The mounting and fulcrum point of the decklid shocks (or the Hass opener) is not ideal and stresses the decklid, hence the need to get the shock pressure correct and different shocks for wing and no wing.

The IPSCO relocation kit does a much better job of relieving that stress and also forces the decklid away from the roof edge upon opening, which was a particular interference problem for me.

Ted Mitchell also had a cantilever spring design that worked quite well I believe.


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