Sticky #2: Rear Deck Lid (Bonnet) Struts

Didn't think OEM Corte & Cosso struts were rebuildable by mere mortals. I also thought that once the OEM struts collapsed, it would be possible to braze a lump near the bottom, tap it and attach a schrader valve so they could be aired up from a home (or gas station) compressor. But the reason they collapsed in the first place is a bad seal, so the airing-up would be a regular chore. And you'd need to be sure not to overpressurize or bad things will happen.

BTW, the reason people invert the struts is, the design does not have the boots fitted tightly to the moving rod, and there's a ledge around the top of the body, under the boot. So rainwater runs down the rod, collects on top of the strut and rusts both the strut and the rod.

Tim,

Thanks for the information.  I appreciate it!

Bill

 

I purchased a set of struts from LSTechnologies back in December.   I dealt with Nolan, who was very nice and helpful.  I had mentioned to him about the potential problem with too much pressure on the body panels.  He charged them with 80 lbs.  He said that he would recharge them for me if I felt that wasn’t enough pressure.  He also recommended installing the struts with the body(thicker part on top).  The little amount of oil in them would keep the seal lubricated, making them last longer.  The pair cost $70.  The part number is T10-10-430-360N.  He was great to deal with.

There is a place in Canada called Strutwise that rebuilds struts.  I found out about this company on Ferrari chat from one of the members who had good things to say about their work.  Contact Frank Irvine.  (604) 589 1200/ (888) 589 1208.  

I've seen a couple of Panteras with self power rear deck lifts. What's nice about those is there is no load on the decklid when closed.

I've been trying to talk Jon Haas into building those but he thinks the market is too small (just me I guess) ?

He already has a set that works with a compressor, He built those before the prevalence of self opening doors in mini-vans but now the self powered lift cylinders are very common.

I'm one of those who upon changing out my originals for aftermarket versions, had the hinges torn out of the decklid.

I've got too many things in the oven now. I can't start another.

 

 

I'm no mechanical engineer but I always thought the self power deck lid struts would put more pressure on the hinge & brackets during opening since they would be lifting the deck lid all by themselves. With my struts they have just enough pressure where I assist the movement with my hand along with the strut pressure so its not just the struts alone doing the work. I have been through many aftermarket struts failing or just too strong, but the ones I got from Pantera Parts Connection back in 2015 have just the right pressure and no issues with them as of yet. Plus I am wondering if all these aftermarket struts may just go bad with such excessive heat. Try touching yours next time you are out for a run, they get super hot. Anyway when I am out for a good run I slip these makeshift heat shields on them which seems to keep the heat down a bit. Not great for a show, but they just slip on & off.

OMG! We've been invaded by those freakin' Ruskies!

Hey Rockie! Watch me pull a rabbit out of my hat? Help me! Please, help me?

Do I need to go to the Russian web site to get information on this system?

The mounting and fulcrum point of the decklid shocks (or the Hass opener) is not ideal and stresses the decklid, hence the need to get the shock pressure correct and different shocks for wing and no wing.

The IPSCO relocation kit does a much better job of relieving that stress and also forces the decklid away from the roof edge upon opening, which was a particular interference problem for me.

Ted Mitchell also had a cantilever spring design that worked quite well I believe.

 

I also installed the IPSCO relocation kit .  It works great.

So I'm even more confused now. All of this data, so hard to get my head around.

I have aftermarket struts on my 74 with wing. Always were pretty good, very neutral, slow to lift, would hold well and really easy to close.

Car has been in restoration for a few years and now the struts wont hold up the rear hood at all. Seems the panel shop may have rubbed them down and painted the bodies as they look really good and there are no markings anywhere on them to know what they are.

They have lovely alloy eyes a the ends with nicely machined bushes to fit perfectly. The eyes are removable.

I popped them on the scales and let my hoist down on them. Left 99lb to 143lbs over the length of the stroke getting firmer as they shortened. Right is 110lb to 154lb over the length of the stroke.

Given all the data here, particularly relating to the Sachs SG314005 @138lb and Sachs SG314032 @115lb it appears that mine are right on the money. Yet they wont hold the deck up.

Given that I've just had the body done and car repainted, I'm scared sh1tless that if I get the wrong pressures it may damage things. Wore still, I'm in Australia so can't just try Nappa, or Autozone etc as they dont exist here.

We have strut sellers, but I need to take them a sample, give them a force rating and they will supply. But given that my struts appear to be solid, I have no idea now. Clearly they need to be a little stronger, but how much more is the million dollar question.

On an exchange basis Wilkinson provides rebuilt original rear deckled struts.  They appear original yet have modern gas charged internals.  I used them on my factory correct Pushbutton and could not hope for something better.

The original strut design/placement is bad with much too short a lever
arm. I used a replacement kit that moves the lift points rearward almost
half way back on the deck lid. The other end is moved up high on the inner
fender. They work grreat. They should be available from the usual Panter
vendors. If you want I will look up the name and part number.
Norm

On Wed, May 11, 2022 at 10:29 PM The De Tomaso Forums <alerts@crowdstack.com>
wrote:

@over50 posted:

The original strut design/placement is bad with much too short a lever
arm. I used a replacement kit that moves the lift points rearward almost
half way back on the deck lid. The other end is moved up high on the inner
fender. They work grreat. They should be available from the usual Panter
vendors. If you want I will look up the name and part number.
Norm

On Wed, May 11, 2022 at 10:29 PM The De Tomaso Forums <alerts@crowdstack.com>
wrote:

IPSCO strut kit.

https://ipsco.org/newsite/prod...ock-replacement-kit/

The aftermarket struts have the reputation of only lasting a year or so.

I remember getting a set from Hall Pantera and the first thing that happened was that the hinges in the decklid pulled right out.

The real solution would be to install power lifts that only put pressure on the decklid while it is open, to hold it open.

The issue is that there are few power lift solutions available.

Pantera-Electronics had built a set using an air compressor but does not market them.

There are self powered cylinders that will fit and work but they are sensitive to heat and because of the proximity to the exhaust in the Pantera will fail quickly if not out and out melt?

Wilkinson exchange deal might be the best compromise and ask him if he has them for the wing. The only thing with that is the hinge issue. Those things are only LOOSELY brazed into place.

I've had the IPSCO kit installed for 5 years and they still work fine.
However, I don't have a wing. As for hinge attachment failure, that is
probably due to the loading from the original struts which is terrible and
creates a high upward bending force close to the hinges. That hinge was
probably ready to fail before the modified struts were installed. I like
the prop rod solution to weak struts. If I were going to try to do
something better, I would try to install struts that mount down on the
crossmember behind the transmission. They would be angled outward but push
sort vertical on the rear of the deck lid and take the load off the
hinges. It would take about 24" struts with 24" extension. Food for
thought.
Norm

On Thu, May 12, 2022 at 12:22 PM The De Tomaso Forums <alerts@crowdstack.com>
wrote:

These are readily available and are advisable for your safety while working in the engine bay. Also advisable if you display your car with the deck lid open, as this will prevent personal injury if the struts fail and strike a spectator.

Larry

@jon3613 posted:

"Shocks" and "Struts" attached to the deck lid ?

Then are "Gas Springs" are on the suspension ?

Click on Natasha for demo :

www.pantera-electronics.com

So Boris, do you have a kit listed or is that video a Promo for a new TV series? Inquiring minds want to know?

Nice hat.

@panteradoug posted:

So Boris, do you have a kit listed or is that video a Promo for a new TV series? Inquiring minds want to know?

Nice hat.

Kit ?  No Kit !    This is a cartoon !   Hat is real.

@jon3613 posted:

Kit ?  No Kit !    This is a cartoon !   Hat is real.

I suppose the video could be called a teaser? Like ads for a push up bra? A big wow factor but nothing really there?

The hat though I think you could rent out space to a family of 4?

@jon3613 posted:

"Shocks" and "Struts" attached to the deck lid ?

Then are "Gas Springs" are on the suspension ?

Click on Natasha for demo :

www.pantera-electronics.com

In Australia we call them gas struts. I had to guess what Americans, English and Europeans call them so pardon me!

Rob, … and if you dare call the trunk the boot, you’ll never hear the end of it! 😆

@davidnunn posted:

Rob, … and if you dare call the trunk a boot, you’ll never hear the end of it! 😆

No, no. A'boot is Canadian for "about".

@davidnunn posted:

Rob, … and if you dare call the trunk the boot, you’ll never hear the end of it! 😆

Engine's in the boot and the battery is in the bonnet for me. I cant get my head around 'frunk' though.