Sticky #2: Rear Deck Lid (Bonnet) Struts

Jan

there are a couple of other options.

(1) Larry Stock is selling rebuilt oem struts, he's found a guy that can rebuild them.

(2) There was an article in a POCA newsletter a few months ago about using struts from the McMaster Carr catalog. I haven't seen them, but the McMaster Carr struts are supposed to look almost identicle to the oem struts.
Along with what George said, Ted Mitchell has been selling no-strut deck lid supports with flat coil springs for quite a few years, that look like Detroit hood supports from the '60s. They are properly weighted and are totally heat-insensitive, using no gas at all. Check his web site www.tmitch.com. Not cheap but quality never is.
quote:
Originally posted by Bosswrench:
Along with what George said, Ted Mitchell has been selling no-strut deck lid supports with flat coil springs for quite a few years, that look like Detroit hood supports from the '60s. They are properly weighted and are totally heat-insensitive, using no gas at all. Check his web site www.tmitch.com. Not cheap but quality never is.

Yeah, but I like the bone stock apperance on everything..he he Smiler Smiler

If no one has experienced ill things with the Detomaso 18126A, then I may just do those. Actually with all the talk about hoods and hinges bending, I have never actually personally heard of anyone that has had that happen, or any photos.
Thanks for the Mcmasters source too. In the link below there is quite a bit of offerings, and for once, someone actually posts lbs pressure.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#gas-springs/=lx99s6
Well, from my March 15th post and earlier when my decklid shocks were not working well, my Autozone Mighty-Lift D95004 are now working fine in holding up the rear decklid. March here in CA is about 60 degrees or so and the struts still were not holding well even with that slight warm up since the chilly 40s/50s during the winter. But now that we are into June it is in the 80s and they are now working fine. So, now after seeing this happen for a few seasons, I conclude that broom handle seems to be the appropriate applcation in the winter until summer rolls around, and then struts are ok...even in CA with low temperature variance, go figure.
quote:
Originally posted by David B:
I've had mine for at least 15 years. They lift up the rear deck (with delta wing) with no effort from me at all. And it stays up. I can leave it open all day in the sun. They haven't lost anything in all these years. There's no brand name on them but I snapped this. I highly recommend them if you can figure out who's they are. I can't find any reference for that PN.


I just ran across this post.

RB8795148 is a part number but can't find the original manufacturer.

Tried Google'ing it and cross references to a 1978-1987 Dodge/Plymouth Hatchback.
Interchange Part Number: SG314005,4400,8195207,10368,8504IL,901210
Other Part Number: RB8795148,95148,613305

Sold in pairs.

The interchange part from Strongarm (PN4400)are sold in pairs for around $30 at The Lift Support Depot in San Marcos, California through their EBay store. Not sure what their normal price is.
Read some previous posts and decided to look around for new lid lifts. My existing units measured around 75 lbs when pushed against a scale and would not stay open.
Contacted Sacks and they identified several that were close to existing model.

Here's their reply;
SG314002 17.2" ext, 11" comp, 85#, 8mm eyelets
SG302001 17.4" ext, 11.5" comp, 85#, 8mm eyelets
SG314032 17.2" ext, 11" comp, 114#, 12mm eyelets
SG314003 16.7" ext, 10.25" comp, 121#, 12mm eyelets

These are the lift supports I have which closest fit your needs. You can purchase them at O'Reilly's Auto Parts, Pep Boys or Autozone. You can also find a wide variety of lift supports at www.liftsupportsdepot.com.

I purchased #SG314032 for my non-winged '72 Pantera. My deck lid has the dress up underside
so that does add a little weight.
These work perfect. Pop the hood and it raises by itself in a controlled manner and stays open. These new units are 115LBS, have the correct eyelet ends with slots that match my (i think) original double mount ends. Cost was around $23 each at O'Reilly.

Thank you for getting me on track.

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The ones that Hall sells as a non-stock replacement, when you cross the number over on the label, do show as that Dodge number. They also cost something like $28 each in a NAPA store.

I bought my first set from Hall. Installed them and the hinges where the attach to the decklid IMMEDIATELY pulled out of the decklid.

The only thing I could do there was braze them internall through the slit and they held. Problem is the heat warped that part of the lid.

I got that under control by shimming down the hinge mount flanges to the roof by 1/8".

I noticed that the deck was no longer pushing itself up, and was sliding down about 5 or 6 inches yesterday.

I have no wing.

I also think I see movement in the attachment of one of the hinges and the decklid.

There is NO visible rust on the decklid in the hinge area.

I haven't come up with a solution to this as I just noticed the entire mess yesterday.

Needless to say, I am not a happy camper.


I personally like the look of the original fat lift shocks.

I did hear mention that the rebuilt originals will not last. They seem to be a temporary solution as they quickly loose there charge.

I personally can not verify that, since I have not gone that route.

I am going to an Italian Car day show today and will see if there are other Panteras there and what they have.

Any info on this I will post.

I am not sure how the factory originally attached these hinges to the decklid. There is no exterior evidance of that.

If the braze has not held, not sure where to go with this. Doesn't look like they can be converted to bolts.

Not a good scenario all in all.
quote:
The ones that Hall sells as a non-stock replacement, when you cross the number over on the label, do show as that Dodge number. They also cost something like $28 each in a NAPA store.

I bought my first set from Hall. Installed them and the hinges where the attach to the decklid IMMEDIATELY pulled out of the decklid.

The only thing I could do there was braze them internall through the slit and they held. Problem is the heat warped that part of the lid.

I got that under control by shimming down the hinge mount flanges to the roof by 1/8".

I noticed that the deck was no longer pushing itself up, and was sliding down about 5 or 6 inches yesterday.

I have no wing.

I also think I see movement in the attachment of one of the hinges and the decklid.

There is NO visible rust on the decklid in the hinge area.

I haven't come up with a solution to this as I just noticed the entire mess yesterday.

Needless to say, I am not a happy camper.


I personally like the look of the original fat lift shocks.

I did hear mention that the rebuilt originals will not last. They seem to be a temporary solution as they quickly loose there charge.

I personally can not verify that, since I have not gone that route.

I am going to an Italian Car day show today and will see if there are other Panteras there and what they have.

Any info on this I will post.

I am not sure how the factory originally attached these hinges to the decklid. There is no exterior evidance of that.

If the braze has not held, not sure where to go with this. Doesn't look like they can be converted to bolts.

Not a good scenario all in all.


All of this is easily solved once and for all with a pair of IPSCO units. But alas, they are not in the stock location (because they are engineered to be an improvement).
Yeah, my Autozone Mighty-Lift D95004 finally gave out, even in hot weather. They do hold up only when nice and hot after running the car. After buying a few sets of these, it seems the life on them is about a year or two. I even used heat reflector on them when I drove the car, as I thought the heat was ruining then, but that didn't seem to help their life. I would consider going back to those sold by some vendors labeled "Detomaso" as described here earlier, but I measured the pressure as stated here before and it is up to 160lb under compression Seems way too much to me. I have found 110 is the sweet spot for non wing car. So for now just using the manual strut clamp to keep it open. I think George posted a source to build some custom struts, so I may try that. Pain in the butt, as it isn't really that easy to change them out without overextending the hood or screwing up the hinges.
DOES 200, We spoke after I bought my Pantera about 5 years ago. So how many Pantera's make a decent retirement fund?

From these past posts - most thought 90-100 lbs per strut would be perfect. The Sachs unit I purchased bolts right up and have 115 lbs for $23 each. I can lower the lid with one strong finger.

Best to you and the board.
Jon Haas has a pretty neat set up. If you paint it black the cylinders will look like the originals.

Cylinders are operated by an air pump with a hidden switch in the license plate recess.

He doesn't market the thing but maybe with enough, "hey Jon?" inquiries he would make some?
quote:
Originally posted by weber69:
DOES 200, We spoke after I bought my Pantera about 5 years ago. So how many Pantera's make a decent retirement fund?

From these past posts - most thought 90-100 lbs per strut would be perfect. The Sachs unit I purchased bolts right up and have 115 lbs for $23 each. I can lower the lid with one strong finger.

Best to you and the board.


Haha Weber, there is never enough for retirement, although 3 is getting close. I went to the web on yours, but they show 125lb. shown below.
http://www.liftsupportsdepot.c...mbers=SG314032&pns=1

Are yours still holding up? Nice engine bay by the way! The wife says I don't remember important things anymore, but I think your car was a real nice GT5 build.

Good options from others too, but I want something in the stock bracket position unless I cut off the brackets and repainted.
quote:
Originally posted by DOES 200:
quote:
Originally posted by weber69:
DOES 200, We spoke after I bought my Pantera about 5 years ago. So how many Pantera's make a decent retirement fund?

From these past posts - most thought 90-100 lbs per strut would be perfect. The Sachs unit I purchased bolts right up and have 115 lbs for $23 each. I can lower the lid with one strong finger.

Best to you and the board.


Haha Weber, there is never enough for retirement, although 3 is getting close. I went to the web on yours, but they show 125lb. shown below.
http://www.liftsupportsdepot.c...mbers=SG314032&pns=1

Are yours still holding up? Nice engine bay by the way!

Good options from others too, but I want something in the stock bracket position unless I cut off the brackets and repainted.


Jon Haas's set fits right into the original brackets. No repainting needed.

The original fat dust boots fit right on.

The only difference is he left his natural machined aluminum.

I saw it yesterday but took no pictures.

I do believe that he has a video of them on his Pantera-Electronics web page? Take a look.

He hasn't answered me yet as to whether on not I can get a set from him. Soon.
DOES - Here's O'Reilly link for the Sachs lid lifts.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/sit..._-1&keyword=sg314032

Here's their web description.

Sachs Stabilus - Lift Support
Part Number: SG314032
Line: SAC
Limited Lifetime Warranty
UPC: 19495086277
Compressed Length (In): 10.965 Inch
Extended Length (In): 17.185 Inch
Lower Mount Type: Eyelet
Travel Length (In): 6.220 Inch
Upper Mount Type: Eyelet
Detailed Description
Manufactured to automotive O.E. performance and quality specifications. Restores the original opening and closing speeds of your hood, hatch or trunk. Easy to install. No special tools required. Exact replacement, engineered for your application. Rust-resistant piston rod extends product life. Easy lifting, reduced closing effort. Consistent lifting force through 50,000 cycles.

Additional Details
Color: Black
Compressed Length (mm): 278.511mm
Extended Length (mm): 436.500mm
Hardware Included: No
Pounds Of Force (Lbs): 115 Lbs.
Rod Diameter (In): 0.315 Inch
Tube Diameter (In): 0.748 Inch
Type: Gas

Regards
quote:
Originally posted by weber69:
DOES - Here's O'Reilly link for the Sachs lid lifts.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/sit..._-1&keyword=sg314032

Here's their web description.

Sachs Stabilus - Lift Support
Part Number: SG314032
Line: SAC
Limited Lifetime Warranty
UPC: 19495086277
Compressed Length (In): 10.965 Inch
Extended Length (In): 17.185 Inch
Lower Mount Type: Eyelet
Travel Length (In): 6.220 Inch
Upper Mount Type: Eyelet
Detailed Description
Manufactured to automotive O.E. performance and quality specifications. Restores the original opening and closing speeds of your hood, hatch or trunk. Easy to install. No special tools required. Exact replacement, engineered for your application. Rust-resistant piston rod extends product life. Easy lifting, reduced closing effort. Consistent lifting force through 50,000 cycles.

Additional Details
Color: Black
Compressed Length (mm): 278.511mm
Extended Length (mm): 436.500mm
Hardware Included: No
Pounds Of Force (Lbs): 115 Lbs.
Rod Diameter (In): 0.315 Inch
Tube Diameter (In): 0.748 Inch
Type: Gas

Regards


Well I've got the Sachs alright and 50,000 cycles? Come on. Maybe a couple of hundred then they're fashizille!

The deck is dropping down a good 12 inches BUT you sure can see them pushing the hinge up when it is closed?

I need my new electric cow bell. Can't wait until it gets here.
Hi Doug,
Sounds like you've been down this road a few times. DOES asked a question and I responded with the unit I recently installed. My previous units were a weak 70 lbs and couldn't keep it up. Some here mentioned the stiff 135 units were overkill. Some mentioned 90 to 100 lbs would be perfect. So I bought the SACKS 115 lbs units. They lift and close easy and I'm not seeing any lid bow due to compressed pressure. They are an exact fit to my original body hardware and cost $25 each delivered.

I also machined some SST end bushing that center position the units.

I'm a newbie and made the best decision based on this board of which you contribute some pretty good advice. I'm guessing I'll be addressing this again in a few hundred cycles.

I'll try to add a few pictures for fun.
Regards to all.

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quote:
Originally posted by TomCat:
quote:
Reply

I just replaced the AutoZone 95004 (blue sticker says 4490 0073) with the Sachs SG314002. The support seems fine.
Tom
Ps-Mine is a 73 with no wing, etc...

So the AutoZone 95004s did a great job for about 4 years...now $22/side in 2015
I am actually working on lifts that replace these struts. They work with an air pump.

The advantage with these is that when the deck lid is closed, there is ZERO pressure on the decklid. That's a big plus.

The other thing with them is that they work off of a dual frequency "remote". One frequency is for the door locks, the other opens the rear deck/trunk.

What's also neat about this setup is 1) it's very easy to install 2) the cylinders look just like the original Detomaso units with the accordian boots and all and they leave the original trunk lock in place.

The compressor is here, the hardware is here, I'm just waiting for the cylinders which are currently on back order from the manufacturer.

This is all ok since it is letting me catch up on all the yard work caused by this last nasty winter. It did a lot of little damage that went unnoticed because everything was buried in ice and snow for so long.

In the meantime, I need to replace the two Sachs struts that are in there now.

This is all ok at the moment. If it goes into June I'll start to get a little impatient with waiting.
Well I just read ALL 19 pages, and still no real wiser.
mine are on their way out, but does stay up for now.
I don't want too stiff ( has a delta wing )
i do NOT want air or electric, has to be neat or invisible.
I thought I saw a chrome one on here, but can't find it.

At the moment a polished stainless slotted tube is winning this argument, but i don't have anywhere to store the tubes !
After reading lots of good info here I wanted new struts my old ones were shot.

They are now finished and fitted and work a treat, if I push the rear hatch button the deck lid lifts then a gentle nudge send it slowly skywards until the struts are extended, and it stays there.

I bought 2 new struts the same length as my original ones, with the proviso that the ends must be removable, also the pressure within (Gained here on the forum) was 400newtons.

I removed the old rods from My original struts, had the tubes powder coated and new decals made up. Then the new struts were fitted inside the original strut tubes with a spacer at the bottom so the new strut sat in the spacer and was held centrally, The original top strut connectors were fitted to the new strut ends (using a helical) to keep them looking original.

The struts were £72 and engineering costs £20

decals free from my son in law and Powder coating £5.

they look well too see pics Hope this helps someone.

larryw posted:
My ($175-total invested) rebuilt original struts failed completely Sunday. I went to a car show, raised the decklid, left it raised for the duration of the show, lowered it and drove home sixty miles in 95 degree heat. They acted just fine.

Next morning, both struts are totally dead. No push at all. Maybe the engine bay heat toasted them? Before all I had to do was push the button and the lid would gently rise all by itself. Now they resist my efforts to raise.

I'm not throwing any more $ at the originals. I did some searching around the forum for aftermarket recommendations and can't really find anything conclusive.

Is there anyone who's happy with whatever substitute they've found recently that they would pass along a recommendation on?

I've got a wingless lid.

Thanks in advance.

Mine were the same, So I fitted new much thinner units inside the old ones, only needs a couple of spacers main at your local machine shop, without a wing 400 newtons does the job. my old post is above sorry.

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IMNSHO the original design is poor because the lever arm from the hinge to strut attachment is too short.  This creates all the sensitivity problems and high bending stresses on the hinge attachments.  As has been previously mentioned, the problem is fixed by installing the IPSCO long shock kit with attachment points half way back on the deck lid.  All the other non-original work arounds to use the same lid attachment point, I don't think are worth it.  Of course, I don't think trying to stay with the original poor design is worth it either.

peterfenlon posted:
After reading lots of good info here I wanted new struts my old ones were shot.

They are now finished and fitted and work a treat, if I push the rear hatch button the deck lid lifts then a gentle nudge send it slowly skywards until the struts are extended, and it stays there.

I bought 2 new struts the same length as my original ones, with the proviso that the ends must be removable, also the pressure within (Gained here on the forum) was 400newtons.

I removed the old rods from My original struts, had the tubes powder coated and new decals made up. Then the new struts were fitted inside the original strut tubes with a spacer at the bottom so the new strut sat in the spacer and was held centrally, The original top strut connectors were fitted to the new strut ends (using a helical) to keep them looking original.

The struts were £72 and engineering costs £20

decals free from my son in law and Powder coating £5.

they look well too see pics Hope this helps someone.

Hi Peter,

they look really nice. Would you by any chance have a file with the design for the decal you used, or perhaps a couple of extra decals you would be willing to sell?

Cheers, Tim.

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