On a set of Closed Chamber Heads, 2.19 valves. Whats the Torque FT. LB. Sequence. Is it 50, then 60, then 100?
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Its definitely not 100 ... I will check but without looking be surprised if its more them 80 ft lbs. on any stock head and stock block.
Ron
Ron
It is in 10 ft-lb incremens to 105 ft-lbs.
If you use the Fel-Pro blue head gasket (recommended by me) the torque will be printed on the lable.
The old Boss 351 Reinz gasket required 125 lb-lbs to crush it to the correct compressed thickness.
The rates are for oiled threads (30 weight oil). I'd clean the the threads in the block with a tap and use new head bolts.
If you use the Fel-Pro blue head gasket (recommended by me) the torque will be printed on the lable.
The old Boss 351 Reinz gasket required 125 lb-lbs to crush it to the correct compressed thickness.
The rates are for oiled threads (30 weight oil). I'd clean the the threads in the block with a tap and use new head bolts.
WOW! So many different Answers. I bought the Head Gaskets from Auto zone. They are Blue. They did not come with torque settings. The motor is 30 over, Stock 2 bbl. closed chamber Heads. 2.19 valves. Flat top pistons. Gee, I thought it would be a Simple Question. Even my ford books say different. Every other torque on the engine is Simplfied. I would like to be able to build this engine once. Its Only a Cleveland. I`m Bacl To Square One. Thats why I Asked on here for help. The Motor wont go in `til I get a Proper answer. Would like to drive it this year. Sat for 2 1/2 yrs. as it is. I have a 427 fe. And a 460, and 302, 351w. I easily know there settings. No Mystery.
I agree with Georges post here showing the 335 specs of 125.
BUT, these specs are in relation to the Ford head gaskets of the era, and there was a special head gasket referred to as the Reintz. That is what was used for racing BUT that gasket was necessary for running the 12.5:1 compression ratio of the era for racing for race durability with the iron heads.
The current blue teflon gaskets from Fel-pro are far superior to the old gaskets AND are NECESSARY to use aluminum heads on an iron block, since the two different materials expand at different rates, the aluminum actually floats on the head gasket. That's really what the teflon coating is for.
This is why I said check the head gasket manufacturers specs. Go to their tech man they have and check with them. Find them on the web.
I doubt that 125 is right for them, although 100 to 105 is a good bet.
If you are running the original head bolts it is impossible to tell how many tightening cycles they have been through.
They actually stretch when you torque them and just like an elastic band, eventually will loose their elasticity and fail.
New bolts are cheap insurance. I use ARP bolts. Eliminates all the stress of worrying about the nuts and bolts of the engine build.
I personally would prefer to go watch some pole dancers and drink some Bud Lights, to reduce stress, taste great, less filling, but that entire scenario entales other unexpected risks. Get the bolts. It's just safer all around.
Oh...if you use the flexing torque wrench with the big pointer on it, that George suggests, make sure you wear a girdle so it doesn't catch on your gut. You'll also look more Charles Atlas-ie and you'll look better to the pole dancers...I mean your best girl!
I growl, grimace and wince for effect, when I use the torque wrench. Never make ANYTHING look easy. Maybe the customer will offer to pay you more if he's watching?
BUT, these specs are in relation to the Ford head gaskets of the era, and there was a special head gasket referred to as the Reintz. That is what was used for racing BUT that gasket was necessary for running the 12.5:1 compression ratio of the era for racing for race durability with the iron heads.
The current blue teflon gaskets from Fel-pro are far superior to the old gaskets AND are NECESSARY to use aluminum heads on an iron block, since the two different materials expand at different rates, the aluminum actually floats on the head gasket. That's really what the teflon coating is for.
This is why I said check the head gasket manufacturers specs. Go to their tech man they have and check with them. Find them on the web.
I doubt that 125 is right for them, although 100 to 105 is a good bet.
If you are running the original head bolts it is impossible to tell how many tightening cycles they have been through.
They actually stretch when you torque them and just like an elastic band, eventually will loose their elasticity and fail.
New bolts are cheap insurance. I use ARP bolts. Eliminates all the stress of worrying about the nuts and bolts of the engine build.
I personally would prefer to go watch some pole dancers and drink some Bud Lights, to reduce stress, taste great, less filling, but that entire scenario entales other unexpected risks. Get the bolts. It's just safer all around.
Oh...if you use the flexing torque wrench with the big pointer on it, that George suggests, make sure you wear a girdle so it doesn't catch on your gut. You'll also look more Charles Atlas-ie and you'll look better to the pole dancers...I mean your best girl!
I growl, grimace and wince for effect, when I use the torque wrench. Never make ANYTHING look easy. Maybe the customer will offer to pay you more if he's watching?