U-Haul trailer

Unless you tie down the rear decklid, definitely forward. The latch really isn't designed for resisting highway speeds. Use tire tie-downs to allow for suspension travel. Don't use the tie down on the front for your primary securing point. It WILL bend under load. Haven't used a U-Haul trailer but remember these cars aren't very tall. Don't know if the wheels/fenders will interfere with opening the door.

Wow I would NEVER do this to my car.  Whats wrong with renting a full trailer?

I'm talking about a 2 axle trailer - U-Haul calls it an Auto Transport - as opposed to a dolly. I chose the open rental trailer rather than use my enclosed box trailer for the 5 hour drive simply just because I rarely use the trailer and I figure Rt. 95 in the NYC area is not the best place to get my licks back. Plus, I can do a one way rental and not have to drag the empty trailer home.

i have just observed mine going on / coming off a roll back.   that operator used cloth straps on the lower a arms.  with 4 wheel chocks blocking travel either way

@jfb05177 posted:

i have just observed mine going on / coming off a roll back.   that operator used cloth straps on the lower a arms.  with 4 wheel chocks blocking travel either way

I've read of a-arms being damaged by an over zealous operator.

A guy on the GT40s.com site uses a U-Haul trailed to move his REAL GT40.   Not sure I would, but it's been done.  Easier getting on off than a flatbed.  That's for sure.  Why not, its a car and that's what they are designed for.

FWIW, I reserved a trailer at a local U-Haul. When I arrived to pick it up, it was not available. They called all the other area U-Hauls, and none were available. I was not a happy camper to say the least. U-Haul finally offered the use of a dolly for free. I didn't want to use a dolly, but I was desperate since I had to pick up the Pantera that weekend.  So, we hooked up the dolly, and off we went. No issues whatsoever hauling the Pantera the almost 600 miles back home.

Well, I will consider the U-Haul solution very well vetted, and if I go. Thanks.

Works fine in my experience. Although I've never had a car that would clear the front wheel stop. So need to elevate the car and/or stage it further back.

Dave

I took my Pantera from IL to MA on a uHaul trailer.  The straps go over the wheels, not the front A arms and the only things you might want to consider is making some ramps out of 2x8 or 2x10 so it doesn't scrape coming up the ramps and some blocks for under the front wheels if your car is low because some of the UHaul trailers have a lip that can catch the lip under the radiator support.  Definitely drive it straight on vs backing it on because of the engine cover latch.  And make sure you're hauling with a full size truck or SUV.  You can see the ramps I made to help get it on the trailer.  Hope this helps you out!

I’ve used the “auto transport” trailer many times. It is just near “idiot proof”. The trailer is on the heavy duty side. A low car like a Pantera/GT40 is better parked on a short piece of 2x10 to clear the front lip.  Straps go over the tires on front and rear has a chain as a 3rd tie (safety only - not torqued down). Stop and check to front tire straps every couple hundred miles.
Ideally more weight on the tongue makes it more stable. I’ve never had a car on backwards.  
Also used the tow dolly but it I prefer the auto transport

2X on loading an open trailer. I've personally seen two Panteras loaded tail-end-first on open trailers, with their deck lids wrapped around the windshield during a tow. Roof repairs and deck lid hinging are especially expensive to fix. I recommend a closed trailer.

On long tows it also prevents local urchins from late-night fooling with the car or stealing 'souvenirs' at your motel. Good luck-

The U-Haul trailers pictured in this thread are flat. However, the one I rented a few years ago had some wells or depressions that the car's tire was supposed to sink into for a better hold. However, they were designed for average-width tires and had no chance of fitting in a 10-inch wide wheel.

The U-Haul trailer worked out great. Thanks for all of your advise. My car has a modest spoiler, and the he car went right on with no clearance issues and only 1 layer of blocking where the ramps touched the ground that probably weren't necessary. The included tiedowns worked great. The trailer towed very well.

The only issue was that the car stopped running just before we loaded, so we had to crank the car up the ramps a few inches at a time with a ratchet strap.  Of course, in the old days, I would have detached the trailer, chocked it, tied a rope between the car and the trailer ball, and pulled the car on with the van. What could go wrong?

The best part was that when we got to our destination, we unloaded, drove a couple of miles to the local U-Haul dealer and gave the trailer back, saving 6 hours of driving with a trailer, substantial tolls, and lots of gas.

great input.  good to know for the future!