Wayne's GT5-S rebuild

Does this mean that Howard Renshaw's car is now done?

I will be looking forward with great anticipation to your taking us through the process, Kirk. Hopefully you will include a lot of photos. I have heard that you have done amazing, standard-setting work on this car, and so I am sure your posting the details will be a great learning opportunity for us all.

- Peter

Here's a shot of the engine's new emission control air box. I'll post some of the design renderings later on.

I work alone and will be on Howard's car one week after Wayne's car leaves next Monday-Tuesday with a re-start date November 9-10.

Thanks Peter---I do have many pictures---one of the e-break drag fix that you may be able to use. Your wing came out great---FYI

Kirk

Here is the start of the air box cover. Lots of chips flew on this carve-out.

Assembled in the raw after several weeks of work.

Another view of the assembled raw air box. The front has additional caution lights and full sweep mechanical gauges with custom faces matching the dash set. This additional front gauge section is removable for better engine access and can be viewed up to 5 feet away from the original mounting position.

This is the unmounted gauge cluster viewed close-up off the main box. You can see the full sweep vacuum, oil psi., water temp and fuel psi. and the oil, water and run lights.

Engine mounted view as seen through the back window.

Here's a wider view of the assembly. The black snorkels on either side of the box pull fresh air through the bottom of the new rear engine side covers. They seal off the quarter window opening utilizing the side scoops outside air access.

No alternator or A/C?

The front accessories were left off until after the install which give me more room. I install the engines alone and prefer to add the compressor, alternator and in this case the air pump after the engine has been set in.

Is the engine cover modified to see the gauges? What are the idiot lights for?

You can see the gauges through the back window. The important issue is they are mechanical gauges including fuel pressure and vacuum to help with diagnostic issues. There is 14 pounds difference between the full sweep back-up oil and electric oil pressure gauges.

The lights are for

BLUE--water temp at 210--watch the gauge RED--oil at 0 to 10 psi--shut it off
GREEN--power to the distributor--key is on

Hope this helps.

Here is a view of right side fresh air snorkel before assembly. They seal around a matched opening in the bottom a new design fresh air side engine cover system.

Beautiful Kirk. Great work as usual!

Here is the snorkel welded before being installed on the inner are box.

Here are the snorkels tacked on the inner air box ready to be finished tig welded. The box is needed to maintain Holley evaporative emissions at the correct level for the 1986 time frame.

Here is a view of the box just finished and installed with the paint complete. The box and engine still need detailed before the combo installation into the car.

Before

After

Some details

More details

Getting it together

close up just about ready to install

Rear before

Rear after

Absolutely beautiful work Kirk, like everything you do. The air box looks fantastic.

Johnny

Thanks Johnny---would have loved to work with you but as some plans go---OOOOOPs.

I'll post some of the early 3-D designs on the air box and the AC condenser fan shroud I made for the back. The new condenser fan housing and rear shields really cleaned up the back tail-light panel inside the compartment. (post some build and finish shots later)

Kirk,

Looks great! Very impressive work. I love the airbox design.

Thank you---here a view of the box installed in the car. One of the most difficult pieces to build were the new side covers and canter engine screen. The side covers seal on the air box snorkels and feed air from the side scoops installed in the quarter windows. The center screen mounting war a real trick---it only uses 2 fasteners which are only visible with the deck open---mounts were very difficult to build.

Close-up through the screen.

A view from the deck.

Through the back window.

Here is a view of the primed side covers, engine screen and camber bar cover just fabricated. The side covers have a air cavity pocket inside. The difficulty was making the window area meet the window plate seal surface and sill have the removable from inside. You can see the screen mount design and fasteners from the rear. The camber bar cover is just cosmetic.

Sorry for the type-Os earlier---that would be center screen not canter screen and "still have the COVER removable".

How about a view of the side cover under construction. The door opens to a twin cap pressure and overflow tank. The steal tank door cover uses a magnetic pop-up latch to keep it clean looking from the top once the cover was finished and painted black.

Here is the door open to the twin cap tank. There is plenty of access room for cap removal and tank filling.

Final test fit before paint

Here is a close-up of the right cold air engine cover showing the screen mount detail and coolant tank access door removed.

The screen mount tab was hollow made the same way the screen surround lip was made. I made a grommet that is larger which mounts inside to center the screen tap so it will not scratch the side cover divot during installation. The fastener is original---tried to keep the original flavor.

Here is the tab detail.

The tab is locked in place with a factory fastener. The gold color is plating for internal protection.

Here is a detail shot.

The locks were difficult to build. first I had to cut 2 washers the same thickness as the factory lock, weld the half's on, regrind the assemble into a circle, drill hole and tap for studs, install/weld the studs, grind and polish the face for plating---and the entire part is not more than an inch in diameter.

Do you have a good picture of the camber bar cover and how it is secured? Your details look very nice.

Here is a shot of the camber cover underside. The end plates welded in set the height on the working camber bar and it is held on with industrial Velcro. It takes two hands to remove it.

some of the air box cover design studies. the box went through 3---here is the first.

Gen 2

First gen file was to big sorry. Second gen had ribs on the side and the third gen has a color change on the emblem and GT5-S grandsport in black like the finished piece.

Exploded view

Rich Hallett of Hallett Design Image worked with me all through the AmeriSport years. He is very talented graphics illustrator and designer. If any of you need such services including home design, building design, idea graphics or what-ever, drip me a note and I'll put you in contact with Rich.

Exploded view of gen 3 from the rear

Bloody hell Kirk! I am impressed. You have put some time into that engine screen. Your fabricating skills are getting better and better. I love the attention to detail - just my cup of tea. I made a crazy air box for my friends Pantera a few years ago that sucks air from the ears. I will post some pics sometime. The sound it made was quite amazing from inside the car. 427 DART induction roar in stereo!
Johnny

quote:

Bloody hell Kirk! I am impressed. I love the attention to detail - just my cup of tea. I made a crazy air box for my friends Pantera a few years ago that sucks air from the ears. I will post some pics sometime. The sound it made was quite amazing from inside the car. 427 DART induction roar in stereo!

You always make me smile my friend---thank you. Frankly Johny, if I had any real money and was to build a car, I'd rather send it to you than any one state side---and I mean that sincerely. There are may capable builders here but I trust you with not to overlook the details.

Here are some shots from the bottom side.

Gas tank side snorkel sealed into the side cover induction opening on the underside.

Here's a better shot of the right painted side cover installed. Building function is often easier that building style with function. This is my attempt at both---hope you like it.

This picture shows the side scoop installed without the louvers. The engine cover is installed mating up to the window seal plate. There is a seal gasket around the side cover opening which is hard to see. The louvers are made to install with 2 line-up pins at the top and one allen bolt at the bottom for a quick in-out solution so you can access the air box/distributor/gauge cluster assembly with the engine cover off through the louver opening without removing the entire scoop.

I build new GT5-S front split bumpers which are body specific. The S is not symmetrical so the bumpers vary from side to side. In my opinion, the pictures do not do the item justice---they look far better in 3-D on the S body.

A different view

the pair

Here is a primed view showing the fit and shape.

How about this shot---the master model of the split bumper plug mounted on the old front plug I pulled back in the day to build the 1989 new full front bumper---I'll post a shot of the old design later.

quote:

p

Night view

Shortened version for the new tube frame car. This project on hold since 2005

Top view with the new windscreen in place. No more memory lane shots---back to Wayne.

Kirk,

You're a true artist. The split bumpers look fantastic. I wish I had half of your abilities.

Thanks for all the posts. It lets the rest of us know what can be done with some talent and ingenuity. Keep up the great work.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Garvino:
Kirk,

You're a true artist. The split bumpers look fantastic.

Thank you---If I can be of assistance, please call if you need support on any part of your car.

Here is a shot of the deck bottom before installation. The lid inserts glued to the deck were first made in 1979 and I may be putting them back into production soon. The material is the same as the trunk insert and front trunk was lined with. this material can be installed seamless into both the front and rear areas and with the lid inserts makes a great looking combo.

Here's a hood shot with inserts. The emblem is embroidered into the liner material and can be any color---I chose a dark gray.

Close-up

Here's a shot of the front trunk finished seamless with the liner material.

Some break line details.

Front trunk latch with fresh plating just before the final install.

To many details---last shot

At the other end of the car, I built a new AC condenser housing with a larger fan shrouded from the outside so there was no visible motor and the fan blade was behind a screened billet shroud. The first gen design of the fan cover is pictured. The shroud assembly and rear side covers as a stand alone unit was quite a project. I'll post more shots of the shroud construction later this week.

Here is a view of the finished AC condenser shroud and hidden fan shot from the roof. I started with a larger condenser and built from there. The shroud and side cover plates are steal painted, color sanded and polished. I post some shots of the build and assembly procedure later. You can better see the camber bar cover at the bottom of the shot. The center ribs are painted and spaced to match the valve covers and air box.

Here's a close-up of the fan shroud showing the blade set into position for viewing.

Here is a view of the shroud freshly tacked together with the fan motor and blade installed at the correct position.

Here is a view of the box looking down from the rear of the car. The motor mount structure runs parallel with the center rib fan shroud trim so you can barely see the motor mounting ribs. Looks simple---not so much. This is one of those items you need to see in 3-D.

Here's a shot of the shroud installed as I'm just starting the side shield patterns. There is a base piece underneath which provides the support for the pattern strips on top. This is the best way by hand I have found to make panels like this.

Finished patterns ready to transfer the shape to sheet steal.

Here a shot of the side covers, camber bar cover and a small filler piece used to cover under the latch---ready to finish prime and paint.

How about this hick-up---The transaxle move back slightly after the real-deal engine was installed and just touched the new shroud---bummer! So I had to figure out transaxle clearance and this was the fix. I cut the end off a 2" 180 deg. U-bend, found the correct location of the clearance needed and installed the tube section.

Here's a close-up of the trans with the clearance piece installed.

The box in primer---boring stuff I know just thought maybe a few of you maybe can use the build techniques.

Here is the final rendering of the fan shroud and cover. The center cover the fan hub.

Here is a side view of the assembly---bad reflections---sorry. You can see the gearbox intruding into the shroud divot. $#It happens but I'm just glad it wasn't painted before the clearance issue was discovered.

Here is a valve cover view which is how/why the rib spacing was used on the air box and rear fan shroud. Motorsport covers were OE on the AmeriSport assembled cars.

Beautiful work Kirk!

I really like this thread.......

Mark

This is just beyond an immaculate build. Great work Kirk. Half the time I don't even know what I'm looking at, but it is always gorgeous!

quote:

Originally posted by DeMopuar:
Beautiful work Kirk!

I really like this thread.......

Mark

Thank you Mark. I appreciate the support.

If any one reading this thread have any questions, ideas, likes, don't likes, suggestions, or even the "what were you thinking" opinion, please, please, please post your thoughts.

quote:

Originally posted by A Hudson:
This is just beyond an immaculate build. Great work Kirk. Half the time I don't even know what I'm looking at, but it is always gorgeous!

Thank you---If you're curious or do not recognize something, please ask and I'd be happy to explain better. Sometimes I look at the pictures and don't know what it is---and I built the stuff so no worries.

quote:

Beautiful work Kirk!

I really like this thread.......

Amen brother!!!

Top notch work Kirk! Can't wait to see pics of Howard's car soon.

Cheers!
Garth

Hey Kirk, are those bumpers on the black car like mine?

Robert,

They are similar but S fronts are body specific. Yours are fitted to the early fenders like the picture below. The rears are also different--the inboard surface is fitted to the AC opening hole and are designed to go better with the front splits.

Overall view of the early split bumpers mounted.

Here is a shot of the rears being fitted to Wayne's car.

Full shot of the split rear bumpers fitted and mounted. The paint stripped air box at the top of the picture was the original one installed in 1986---quite a difference from the new one.

Here are the bumpers painted and installed just after a bath.

On occasion the Pantera can act like the Wicked Witch of the West---but I have never yet seen one melt so yes I do hose beat them with the water when needed.

How about this bumper for what I had hoped would the 1991-92 Pantera. Another trip down memory lane. This 3-D master model still sets in the corner of my shop waiting for the right customer.

Maybe you'll read this and call----Of coarse I'd like be become a Ninja to---probably won't happen.

This was the first late model engine compartment I finished---done allot of early ones. The undercoating was extremely thick---thicker than even the 72 cars. Here's a shot of the stripping process. I use aircraft stripper---many coats and lots of scraping. This is a job Americans will not do so I have to pull out my Italian passport when the stripper flies.