Momo makes over 200 different steering wheel hub adapters for a reason. Even manufacturers such as Porsche change the mounting and turn signal cancelling mechanisms from model to model and year to year. As Larry wrote, a hub is correct or it isn’t. A hub that’s close won’t work and is potentially a very dangerous compromise.
The taper is actually a better (and simpler) way to keep the hub tight to the shaft without the possibility of the torque applied to the steering wheel causing the hub to permit the wheel to rock.
I agree that you either have the correct hub adapter or you don't, but it looks like that particular Mazda hub adapter could have a taper cut into it without much effort provided you can maintain an acceptable amount of tooth engagement when doing so.
Personally I'd be curious about the Porsche shaft and suspect that there might in fact be a taper cut into the splines, i.e., the od of the front of the splines is smaller then the back od.
This would be particularly important depending on the metal alloy used for the hub adapter. If it is an aluminum casting, then potentially it will wear faster and a rocking will eventually occur without it.
A hub adapter isn't something that you really want to screw around with by yourself to make it fit. It's best to get the exact right part you need to begin with and as Larry points out, don't mess with the original engineering design. It was done for a reason and you shouldn't presume that it is for redundancy?
Personally I've screwed up plenty by mis-machining on the lathe trying to outsmart everything. I still get adventurous and if making mistakes makes one smarter, I must be a genius by now? Somehow that just hasn't worked out that way though?
Even if a non-Pantera hub fits the Pantera's steering shaft's splines perfectly, it's not going to cancel your turn signals.
@panteradoug posted:David. Not to be argumentative (just confused) There is a Mk1 in the UK in '68. I'm told by a "Brit" that there is an early, '68-70 Mk1 and a later Mk1, and the shafts are different.
He is saying that a Mk3 WILL fit a Mk1, but not a 68-70 Mk1, and that agrees with nothing being said here.
A US marketed Mk1 is 70-72 but the Pantera isn't built here, it is sourced and built in Europe and developed before a 71 model year.
What I am thinking is, if my UK source is correct, then what we have is the earliest version, which frankly since the thing is cut up and altered to work in a Pantera anyway, the only important data is that the input and outputs match?
I need to be careful with a logical answer though? It apparently isn't always the correct answer? ...now I just confused myself with that comment. Yikes. I have a headache...need to take a nap.
Yes, we Brits know the late Mk1 as the Mk1 facelift (1972-74 models with rectangular headlights) and the early (1969-72) as a pre-facelift. I think Ford only imported the German made pre-facelift version to the US. The Mk2 and Mk3 are hatchbacks and quite different. Take a look on eBay UK and you'll quickly see that the Mk3 steering column is significantly longer than the Mk1, they were not cut up for the Pantera, only the upper section used splined on both ends.
If you want a spare Mk1 column, Mike Mayberry has one on eBay currently.
I know but I'd feel guilty about cutting it up. I'd rather cut up the Capri.
David, not beeing argumentative but I beg to differ. My cheap non-pantera hub (without taper) is cancelling the Turn Signal without any modifications perfectly, with the OEM Red plastic ring. I changed nothing, adjusted nothing, just replaced the OEM ford Steering wheel with the hub, an extension, and a Momo Steering wheel. No woble, no slack. Feels stiff, with the exception of the slight wiggle of the Pantera Steering column assembly which is due to its fragile mounting design to the Chassis.
This is the $21 adapter on ebay from China. It does show a taper.
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https://pantera.infopop.cc/top...30#23710308161236430
Yes, this is the exact hub I am using.
OK, we already knew the cheap China/Mazda splined hub firmly attaches to the Capri/Pantera splined steering shaft..
we now know that cheap China/Mazda splined hub successfully auto-cancels the turn signal.
it is still not a proper OEM-style match to the capri/Pantera splined steering shaft, unlike the offerings from Momo, Luisi and other main-stream vendors.
It is still not correct.
Not. Correct.
Larry
Define "correct" please?
Geeesh. Really Doug?
Correct means duplicating the OEM Ford/capri/Pantera dimensions of the splined hub that attaches to the splined shaft.
if it duplicates those dimensions, it is correct.
if it does not duplicate those dimensions, it is not correct.
Not. Correct.
Larry
Thank you Larry. I always feel better with clarification. I'm better now that I know I'm correct on my adapter...few!
I know mine is prettier but that doesn't always help. After all wifey just wants me to sit there, be quite and look pretty.
@panteradoug posted:
This is the $21 adapter on ebay from China. It does show a taper.
Here is a clearer photo of the China/Mazda hub showing the “taper”
“You call that a taper? THIS is a taper”
This is the splined end of the steering shaft
Out of production Grant Capri/Pantera splined hub, 32 mm thick
China/Mazda splined hub
thickness of splined hub hole-
OEM-34mm…..Luisi-34mm…..Grant-32mm…..China/Mazda-18mm
Larry
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Just an update. I recieved an adapter from PI Motorsports https://pim.net/ today, 3 weeks after ordering. Price was $135 and I took a few pictures to share with you all. My Pantera is sleeping for the winter so it will be a while before I can get to fitment.
Upon visual inspection the splines look right and the taper is very obvious. The momo with the adapter (left) is a little shorter than oem (right). I think it will be fine.
Now - what about the DeTomaso logo for the center of my new Momo wheel? Any Momo owners want to share their experience here? Thanks, OP
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That didn’t take too long, thanks for sharing.
yes, the splines and taper and signal cancel appear to be proper.
interesting that it only comes with one PCD pattern. Most hubs currently sold incorporate 70 mm and 74 mm PCD patterns
finding a De Tomaso horn center of any kind for any steering wheel is a difficult task. There are generic black centers if all else fails . Perhaps another owner has found a successful source that has evaded my searching?
did the hub come in a manufacturer’s box or have any indications of who/where it was made?
Larry
Momo has their own center cap. The issue would be with getting the foil DT insert for it. I'm pretty sure that you can get just that from one of the vendors.
Ron McCall has his own GT40 type caps that will fit the wheel and Wilkinson's quick release device is well worth it. That is the black one with engraved DT that is shown in several of the wheels in the steering wheel thread.
It all depends on your own concept of how the wheel should look and function.
I'd personally recommend the quick release hub though and as far as Marlin's comment about the steering wheel "shouldn't project above the dash", you can install an adjustable height device to deal with that.
Howdy,
PI Motorsports appears to have a candidate De Tomaso steering wheel center on ebay: https://www.ebay.com/b/Steerin.../33704/bn_7064364870
I did not notice a diameter specified for the part but I sent the seller a related message this evening; I'll post if/when I receive an answer.
I too would like to replace my current [Momo GT] wheel with a Momo Race model and I would prefer to have the De Tomaso center.
--Brian
That steering wheel emblem fits the OEM steering wheel’s center pad, not a Momo wheel.
If the one in the photo I just took is in fact, the same item as the PIM is offering, it is 43 mm in diameter, aluminum, flat, and silk screened.
here is a better link to the eBay auction
https://www.ebay.com/itm/26590...temis&media=COPY
Larry
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I used this Emblem. It fits perfectly on the generic 'momo' horn buttons, the cheap ones. One can remove the plastic doomed Sticker in the Center and replaced IT with the emblem.
Horn button Like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/16370...tkp%3ABk9SR6KFyo-5YQ
Attention: IT does Not Work with the original Momo buttons. They habe a different center Part.
Bluepant
when you get a chance can you post a photo of what this looks like installed on your car?
just to clarify that I got this right. You used the flat sticker sold by P.I.M. and swapped it into a generic eBay Momo horn button.
The generic buttons usually come with a logo of some type, so you removed that logo and installed the P.I.M. emblem, right?
and the finished product still has a clear, domed, Crystal plastic shape, correct?
thanks,
Larry
Yes, I will do. Car is in storage due to Winter. Will Take some time.
I got the Metal Emblem together with my car. I bought a cheap Chinese Momo Horn button. I removed the Logo sticker. IT came Off easily. These Logos are plastic domed Stickers, and replaced it with the Metal DT Emblem. Th finished Product has no domed crystal.
I made a domed Center button for my Porsche. For that, I used an UV curing doming Resin. I do Not recommend IT to use this with prints as the Resin heats Up a lot while curing, and IT might blur the Print colors.
I found a picture of my DIY horn button in my picture archive. The emblem has still the protective plastic sheet on it. I think it looks great and very OEM.
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This is my DIY Porsche Horn Button. I took an OEM Momo horn button and replaced it with a self made, domed crystal. I used UV curing resin and a vintage Porsche crest. To do this you need to fabricate a flat round metal sheet with a rivet (for having an electrical connection to activate the horn when you push it) in order to replace the momo metal cone inside the horn button. 
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@lf-tp2511 posted:OK, we already knew the cheap China/Mazda splined hub firmly attaches to the Capri/Pantera splined steering shaft..
we now know that cheap China/Mazda splined hub successfully auto-cancels the turn signal.
it is still not a proper OEM-style match to the capri/Pantera splined steering shaft, unlike the offerings from Momo, Luisi and other main-stream vendors.
It is still not correct.
Not. Correct.
Larry
I currently have my steering column disassembled for repair/updates.
How does the cancelling cam interlock with the notches on the steering wheel hub adapter? There is no direct connection. There should be an addition cog on the cam to engage the hub and rotate it but it doesn't have one. So what rotates the cam?
Also exactly what is the spring supposed to do?
I just don't understand the engineering concept here?
What I did when I originally installed my Momo wheel and adapter was to install a 1/32" roll pin in the base of the adapter and drilled a hole in the cam to directly drive the cam.
I don't even get why anyone bothered to notch anything in the steering wheel or hub. It just doesn't matter because it doesn't do anything.
The oem wheel is a thin walled (albeit heavy ga) unit. The collumn and steering wheel are welded together. Perhaps the bellows is intended to collapse in a crash? I guess you could destroy the stock steering wheel to harvest the tapered and splined "hole" and turn it into something else. 
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On the original wheel as you have pictured, one can clearly see how the directional cancel cam is driven by the notch in the steering wheel base.
The drive provided on the Momo adapter does not and makes no sense. There is no direct drive provision made for the cam canceler.
@panteradoug posted:On the original wheel as you have pictured, one can clearly see how the directional cancel cam is driven by the notch in the steering wheel base.
The drive provided on the Momo adapter does not and makes no sense. There is no direct drive provision made for the cam canceler.
The photo below is the close-up that was posted of the Momo splined hub -
it definitely incorporates not just one notch like the OEM hub, but two notches. Perhaps the second is for a different application?
I don’t understand why you say the Momo lacks the notch? 🤷♂️
And just for clarity, here is a photo of the cancel cam, showing all of it, something that hasn’t yet been posted to this thread.
Larry
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@lf-tp2511 posted:The photo below is the close-up that was posted of the Momo splined hub -
it definitely incorporates not just one notch like the OEM hub, but two notches. Perhaps the second is for a different application?
I don’t understand why you say the Momo lacks the notch? 🤷♂️
And just for clarity, here is a photo of the cancel cam, showing all of it, something that hasn’t yet been posted to this thread.
Larry
I never said that the Momo adapter did not have the notches in it. I said that they don't do anything (at least in my case) because they do not mate properly with the cancelling cam.
They don't mate AT ALL with that cam.
Here is the picture of my cam. According to the assembly diagram, the tab mounts up.
There is no tang on it to lock into the adapters notches. Is there more then one cancelling cam design? NO ONE, including Wilkinson seem to be able to answer that simple question.
Your picture shows a tang on the BOTTOM of the cam. My picture of the cam in the column shows that the illustration is correct, i.e., what is up and down on that cam. That is reinforced to me on how the directional switch needs that side tang to cancel, BUT WHERE IS THE INTERLOCK TO THE STEERING HUB?
Also in looking at the entire assembly, what is the additional tang on the bottom of the cancelling tab for? In my column, that would mate to nothing and mine doesn't have it? 
What I did, and likely will continue to use, is a 1/32" roll pin I installed into the bottom of the Momo adapter that drives the cam canceller.
The other alien device that you are looking at is the commutator for the column mounted push button start switch.
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@lf-tp2511 posted:The photo below is the close-up that was posted of the Momo splined hub -
it definitely incorporates not just one notch like the OEM hub, but two notches. Perhaps the second is for a different application?
I don’t understand why you say the Momo lacks the notch? 🤷♂️
And just for clarity, here is a photo of the cancel cam, showing all of it, something that hasn’t yet been posted to this thread.
No spring. No room for it in the assembly. Just a factory solid spacer under the cam.
When installed, the smaller tang/tab in my photo is on the top, closest to the steering wheel.
it indexes with the notch in the stock hub, and will index with the notch on the Momo hub,
The larger tab is what touches/cancels the turn signal.
if your cancel cam only has the larger tab, that is the source of your issue.
the stock splined hub does not have a rod (like you added to your Momo), and yet it operates just fine, correct?
Larry
The hub does not function as intended. So it does not function properly.
There is not enough clearance to reverse the cam. It will be crushed.
The dark spot that you circled is from the crazy glue that I used to repair a crack in it. There is no evidence that the hub ever had a tab there.
Of course, I've only owned the car for 37 years so I can't speak necessarily as to how it was built originally.
Thanks for your input.
So your cam cracked at the exact location where other cams have the small tab??
as if the tab was snapped off and created the crack in the process??
And again, how would the stock splined steering wheel hub manage to cancel without an added rod as you have done??
Larry
@lf-tp2511 posted:So your cam cracked at the exact location where other cams have the small tab??
as if the tab was snapped off and created the crack in the process??
And again, how would the stock splined steering wheel hub manage to cancel without an added rod as you have done??
Larry
It wouldn't but in reversing the cam to the "stock orientation", the directional switch release button does not line up (I just tried that) with the release tab on the directional switch.
To realign that switch (somewhere in the 3/4 to 1" range) to make that work with the reversed cam would mean that the ignition switch would also need to move the equal amount to align with the enclosure case openings.
That in essence would move the steering wheel out from the dash the same amount. For me that is undesirable.
The way I am aligned now, the "missing" cog would need to be located on the same end of the cam as the release tang is. That obviously doesn't exist.
It can stay with the drive pin for that reason.
As far as the crack location, there is more then one crack in the cam. Not just in the "intended" location to the missing cog.
What is the dimension of the original steering wheel depth, i.e., the corrugated steel tube? Is it the same length as the Momo adapter?
My car had a LeCarra wheel on when I bought it. That may explain the variation from the stock assembly? I don't remember how the LeCarra hub adapter mated up to the cam.
It could be that the LeCarra installer was looking to gain more arm space by moving the steering wheel about an inch closer to the dash? That would explain this situation.
Something definitely seems to be non-standard on your column.
This sketch displays the distance of the OEM splined hub and wheel combination, and how far the driver’s side of the wheel is from the tip of the steering shaft.
this may allow you to determine if your wheel position has been installed closer or further than the stock wheel
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With the Momo adapter the dimension is 2-1/2".
A more useful dimension would be the distance from the dashboard to the steering wheel?
It is pretty obvious that the original wheel is closer to the driver. In such a tight cabin, a couple of inch difference is a big deal.
Can you share a photograph of the back of your steering wheel, showing your adapter with a bottom and side view?
Thanks
Larry
OK.
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