Alt wiring

Pic of Alt
Alt is a Motorcraft item from a 90's ford
I think it charges at 120 amps

Also note, I do not have any wires in the harness that would have gone to a voltage reg. They must have been removed by previous owner.

I have a diagram from Tuff Stuff. I put in a 3G alternator from PA Performance . They also sell a box that looks like the stock voltage regulator so the alt warning light still works.
This would be a good time to eliminate the amp meter and upgrade to a expanded scale volt meter. The charge wire should be upgraded at this time. I ran a #4 gauge wire to the battery side of the starter solenoid and got a 120 amp manual reset circuit breaker from Auto Zone. It is installed between the alt and the starter solenoid.
If you add the heavy gauge wire I recommend the stock amp meter will no longer work. A link to the external regulator replacement box for a 3G and idiot light.
https://www.paperformance.com/...iew.asp?idproduct=75
If the wiring diagram for 3G did not attach then will try again.
Link to the alternator I used.
https://www.paperformance.com/...iew.asp?idproduct=46

Notice the two instructions/warnings PA Performance puts at the bottom of their alternator upgrade page:

"All alternator upgrades require a large (#6 or #4 gauge) wire be run from the output of the alternator to the vehicle harness

** (a) direct reading ammeter should not be used or should be bridged (shunted) due to the significant increase in measured amperage with upgrade alternators"

As a after thought. The black wire in your hand is the wire to the amp meter. It is too small a gauge for the stock alternator and now that you plan to soup up the charging system it could easily over heat with more amps. So it should be up graded. The stock amp meter can be a fire hazard too. There are threads on this forum about that.
The "box" from PA Performance plugs in place of the stock regulator and you end up using one of the 2 smaller wires. They have their own diagram. The diagram from Tuff Stuff should get you going.
I had thought of getting a 3G from a u-pick salvage yard.

Jay,

The pic below should help. The green wire with a red stripe goes to the "Gen" light in the speedo.

Those pre-made connectors should be available from some of the auto parts stores, and you can find them on eBay.

I, too, caution against using the stock Pantera wiring and ammeter.

You should consider adding a #4 AWG (or larger) wire from the alternator's BAT (output) terminal to the BAT terminal of the starter solenoid.

John

quote:

The stock amp meter can be a fire hazard too.

Sigh..

ANY device carrying high amperage becomes a potential trouble spot...

if the connections are not kept tight and secure.

A properly installed, as in gauge studs firmly tightened to the gauge case, and wires firmly tightened to the studs does NOT pose a problem.

The amp gauge is not the problem. The problem is owners who expect 40 year old connections to remain secure with no inspection and maintenance.

Larry

quote:

I, too, caution against using the stock Pantera wiring and ammeter.

I should have added ...when using a high output alternator.

As Larry pointed out, properly installed and tightened connections are not a problem.

When using a high output alternator, the problem that can arise is when the alternator is putting out a high current (amps) into the stock Pantera wiring, excess heat is generated in the (small) ammeter wires which causes overheating and greatly increases the risk of a fire. Voltage drop also occurs.

John

A good upgrade:

Replace the Wire (B+) from the Alternator with a thicker one and connect it directly on to the Starter Solenoid Terminal (the side coming from the Battery +) And replace your Amp meter with a Volt meter, which is by the way a 100 times more useful Gauge.

Hi Guys
Just wanted the say "Thanks"
All is well with the world now, or at least my charging system
The pic was helpful and I took your advise and upgraded the wire with a jumper from the Alt to the battery.
Much appreciated!!