The hood has a compound curve in it. Did you do anything to bow it out? I ran mine through the English wheel to get the right curvature in both directions:

The inner structure needed quite a bit of Work to be straightened - then I went a Little oveboard with the drill in my attempt to save some weight :-).

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Finished. Total weight saving is 7,5 kg (16,5 Pounds) - 6 kg from the skin alone.

The skin has a slight curveture to it both directions, but it wraps very nicely round the stiffer inner frame without having to use an english Wheel.

The lid fit the car very nicely. I need to take Pictures of the lid fitted to the car tomorrow.

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So, finally the car has got some color. Just working on the small details now. Needed to fit doors and flares to mark-up the areas that will be painted matt Black .

The Black goes on tomorrow and then it's ready for pick-up

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Looks really good Kristian Wink

But I would have guessed less Orange and more Red, perhaps it is the Light?

Dont forget I have your fast Steering Rack in my Garage all done and just ready to fit.
Hey Jan

You're right, the light in the paintbooth does change the tone of the color. But, it still is quite orangy-redish in normal light too.

Car got the Black stuff put on on today, looks really cool I think. Will pick-up car tommorrow - now the fun will begin.

I'll need to take the trip over the bridge soon
Your metalwork is super, and your car looks great.

Looking forward to more pictures as the car progresses.

Rocky
Push looking fantastic man..!!! Great job btw with the hood re-skinning. As always...first rate. Flares and tire fitment looks PERFECT..!! Thumbs Up!
Wow, it's looking great! Impressive work you have done here. Thank you for letting us follow the details.
Can you beat Goran with the weight? He claims 1071 kg.
A little update on the Gr4 car. Very slow progress but a few things have been completed. A lot of work have gone into making a fiber rear deck fit, a lot of cutting and re-fibering, but now it fits reasonably good.

I added the Gr5 rear spoiler, a lot of the euro Gr4 racers use this version. I like it.

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This is the motor a plan on using - not entirely historic correct, but I will be able to use it at a number of events.

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Will the hose from the dry sump oil pump go into the cockpit? Or is that temporary...

I think that's what the braided hose with the thermo-covering on it is...


Rocky
quote:
Will the hose from the dry sump oil pump go into the cockpit? Or is that temporary...

I think that's what the braided hose with the thermo-covering on it is...


That's temporary - the lines are just joined to seal the oil system. There will be a u-turn fitting with the return line to the dry-sump tank.
Btw - it's a RoushYates 358 D3.
Last edited by push1267
What about the internals on that motor?
cam ?? compression? The blade spoiler is my preference too. May I add my compliments very impressive!
The internals of the motor are all RoushYates spec. It was sold of their nascar program a few years ago when they went from the D3 engines to the newer FR9 engines. This one has done one race since last refresh (400 miles)

It's a nationwide spec. roller engine, compared to the Flat tappet Cup motors. A little less power and torque, around 800 HP and 530-550 Ft-lbs, compared to the Cup motors around 850-870 HP - still (a lot) more than my skills can handle.

I will need to detune a little (I think), probably a less aggressive cam to lower max rpm to around 8000 and maybe thicker headgaskets to lower compression to under the current 12.1.

The block is a 9" deck R451 dry sump with a Bryant crank (3.260 stroke), Plankl rods and Mahle pistons (4.15 bore). Heads are Yates D3s with titanium valves, retainers and locks and jesel valvetrain. Carburator is a Holley 830 nascar.

I'll be taking my chances with the ZF, after all, aren't they supposed to be able to handle 550 Ft-lbs ?? Eeker
Last edited by push1267
ZF strength will be the least of your problems unless you decide to contest one of the Vintage endurance racing series in Europe. On most public roads, you simply cannot use that much power for more than 5 or so seconds, so the combination will have a much longer life than in competition. More pressing may be the flexing you'll experience from the rear of the chassis. Seam-welding the whole car from the firewall back plus some sort of chassis stiffening system will help. As you probably already know, the stock upper bay-brace is useless, as are the aluminum aftermarket bars. You'll have fun sorting out what you need in shocks, anti-sway bar sizes and tires/brakes. FWIW, with a slightly too-big cam and aluminum heads at 10-!/2:1 or slightly higher, you can probably use the highest possible pump gas without needing an octane-additive. Keep us posted on your progress in taming the beast!
Bosswrench, you're right. If you go back through this thread you'll see that all these issues have been addressed to varying degree. This car is for race purpose only and will run on race-fuel.

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