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Finished. Total weight saving is 7,5 kg (16,5 Pounds) - 6 kg from the skin alone.

The skin has a slight curveture to it both directions, but it wraps very nicely round the stiffer inner frame without having to use an english Wheel.

The lid fit the car very nicely. I need to take Pictures of the lid fitted to the car tomorrow.


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Will the hose from the dry sump oil pump go into the cockpit? Or is that temporary...

I think that's what the braided hose with the thermo-covering on it is...

That's temporary - the lines are just joined to seal the oil system. There will be a u-turn fitting with the return line to the dry-sump tank.
Btw - it's a RoushYates 358 D3.
Last edited by push1267
The internals of the motor are all RoushYates spec. It was sold of their nascar program a few years ago when they went from the D3 engines to the newer FR9 engines. This one has done one race since last refresh (400 miles)

It's a nationwide spec. roller engine, compared to the Flat tappet Cup motors. A little less power and torque, around 800 HP and 530-550 Ft-lbs, compared to the Cup motors around 850-870 HP - still (a lot) more than my skills can handle.

I will need to detune a little (I think), probably a less aggressive cam to lower max rpm to around 8000 and maybe thicker headgaskets to lower compression to under the current 12.1.

The block is a 9" deck R451 dry sump with a Bryant crank (3.260 stroke), Plankl rods and Mahle pistons (4.15 bore). Heads are Yates D3s with titanium valves, retainers and locks and jesel valvetrain. Carburator is a Holley 830 nascar.

I'll be taking my chances with the ZF, after all, aren't they supposed to be able to handle 550 Ft-lbs ?? Eeker
Last edited by push1267
ZF strength will be the least of your problems unless you decide to contest one of the Vintage endurance racing series in Europe. On most public roads, you simply cannot use that much power for more than 5 or so seconds, so the combination will have a much longer life than in competition. More pressing may be the flexing you'll experience from the rear of the chassis. Seam-welding the whole car from the firewall back plus some sort of chassis stiffening system will help. As you probably already know, the stock upper bay-brace is useless, as are the aluminum aftermarket bars. You'll have fun sorting out what you need in shocks, anti-sway bar sizes and tires/brakes. FWIW, with a slightly too-big cam and aluminum heads at 10-!/2:1 or slightly higher, you can probably use the highest possible pump gas without needing an octane-additive. Keep us posted on your progress in taming the beast!

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