quote:
Originally posted by Push1267:
quote:
That rear view is sick..! Holy crap, can't wait to see it with the rubber in the wells.


Funny that you should mention that - I had that same urge some time ago Big Grin


I like it. The flares fit nicely. What color are you going to use?
As mentioned in the post, we are working on analyzing the original factory red - so it's going red/Black.

Surpricingly, one of the paint companies we talked to had the formulas for the original 1972 red (there are two different codes) - but the one they test sprayed did not match the remnants of the factory red I had all that well, I thought, - so they're back to work on one of the other codes.
There are two reds. Mine is Pantera Red #2. By deduction, there must be a #1 but more likely just called Pantera red.
Red and black are the factory race colors.
Interesting because they are the German national colors as well.
Looks absolutely great Kristian, I am sure it will be a real Beast when its finished.



quote:
posted January 26, 2016 11:55
There are two reds. Mine is Pantera Red #2. By deduction, there must be a #1 but more likely just called Pantera red.
Red and black are the factory race colors.
Interesting because they are the German national colors as well.


I am sure Kristian knows Black and Red is factory race colors and that is probably exactly why he choose that combination Smiler But Panteradoug I am not sure about the relation to the German national colors you are making ??????? If you are relating to their Flag it is black/red/yellow!
If we all had stupid amounts of money it'd be interesting to put a bunch of matt clear coats over the paint as it is and "rat rod" it for a bit....
OK, as mentioned, we found the original 1971 V108 red on a spare headlight bucket we had lying around. The color is from a very early car chassis #1395. It's very orange-red-like and looks pretty similar to what I have seen in pictures on original Gr4 cars and also early 1971-72 production cars. So, that's the color we were aiming for.

We stripped the top layers off the bucket and polished through to the original red color underneath.

A paint scan came up with a near perfect match from a .... Renault (!!!). I can't distinguish the test spray from the original color so this will be a go :-).

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Last edited by push1267
It's actually a very nice color. It really glows in the sun like it's radioactive.

I think if you look at a color wheel it is right on the line between orange and red. Just a little step towards red?

Ford had a color like it too from the 64-1/2 Mustangs. At one time they called it Coral but mostly is just referred to by it's paint number.

http://thecoralsnake.com/
Great colour! Reminds me a lot of the "tangerine" Holden used on their Torana's here in AU back in the 70's.

A tangerine LJ XU-1 Torana would be a nice addition to the garage.
quote:
Originally posted by Push1267:
OK, as mentioned, we found the original 1971 V108 red on a spare headlight bucket we had lying around. The color is from a very early car chassis #1395. It's very orange-red-like and looks pretty similar to what I have seen in pictures on original Gr4 cars and also early 1971-72 production cars. So, that's the color we were aiming for.



We stripped the top layers off the bucket and polished through to the original red color underneath.

A paint scan came up with a near perfect match from a .... Renault (!!!). I can't distinguish the test spray from the original color so this will be a go :-).


Its hard to see on my 2 pics but my painter used a Ford red from the early 70's to paint my engine bay and the bonnet and boot lid after I stripped the engine out to tidy it up. It is a little orange which initially I didn't care for, but now I really like it and it brightens up the car, whereas some dark reds can be dull. None of the paint has yet been polished.

quote:
Originally posted by Rocky:
Peter -

That looks great!


Rocky


You have no idea how nice it is to have a kind remark.

It makes it all worthwhile for an amateur.

Cheers Rocky.

ps am tidying up the front area where its been jacked up and split open over the last many many years, but my skills with the welder Wouldn't cut the mustard as much as this truly interesting refit which has bought me much more knowledge of the Pantera that I didn't know.
I think that is the Ford "Poppy Red"? It looks really nice.

The Detomaso Pantera Red is somewhat orangey also.

It really jumps at you in the bright daylight and I like it a lot more than the Ferrari red.

Looks great. Nice job.
I guess it's time for an update on the progress on my gr4 car which, well, is close to none. The car still sits in the paintshop and not much has happened. Hopefully things will get going this month - atleast that's what he has promised.

Meanwhile a few parts have turned up. It took AP RACING 6 month to finish the rear calipers for the car. Again, these have to be homologated for them to be used in historic events here in europe.

I had the choice between the Girling 16/4s made by Bg Development and the AP Lockheeds of AP RACING historic range. I went with the APs (remember, I have AP 8-piston calipers for the fronts), as they are lighter than the Girlings and have a greater brake pad area. They are availible with different piston sizes, including the 41.3 mm homologated for the Gr4 Pantera. Also, a feature I liked was that they have blank lug mounts, meaning I can drill them to match the bolt pattern on the rear uprights and thus avoid using adapters.

Here's a Picture:

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Another neat piece is this dual master pedal assemply kit that Scott (SACC restorations) put together for me. Pretty much his standard set-up, but with Girling masters instead of the Wilwoods. The kit includes a proportioning valve and a remote adjustable balance bar.

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Allthough progress is INCREDIBLE slow, there IS Progress at the paintshop. They finished prepping the body, and expect to start painting the car Next week!!

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I'm pretty obsessed with getting the red color for this car right, i.e., getting it as close to the original red as possible.

So i did one further check of the color we came up with. The red was mixed from a scan from the original red on an early '71 headlight bucket BUT, is the early '71 red, the same as the red used on the later '72 euro GTS and Gr4??

So I send the paintsample to Chris Beck in Switzerland to compare it to his original GTS red.

I think it's pretty convincing, they compare really well. Good thing is, that the color is a modern paint from a Renault that can be mixed at any time.

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quote:
Originally posted by Push1267:
The rotors are 304x28 mm, also from AP, Again size is dictated by what is allowed by the FIA


Hello Kristian
Did you build some hats for those rotors ?
I've got the same for my gr4 project, still not have the hats ...
Thanks
Philippe
Philippe,


I do have some set of hats, but I'm not sure they will be right. I'll be experimenting with rotor offset when I get the car back.

The hats for the AP rotors will likely need to be custom made. AP doesn't offer universal hats.

Wilwood offers a few hats with the AP 12X7 rotor circle and ford 5X4.5 bolt circle that may work.
Hello Push,

on your original post a long time ago now you mentioned the history of your car, sold by Claud etc etc.

I also own a 72 Euro GTS number 3840 and am interested in where you found out about the history of your car.
Santiago Detomaso I cannot contact for some reason

regards Peter
quote:
Originally posted by Push1267:
Philippe,


I do have some set of hats, but I'm not sure they will be right. I'll be experimenting with rotor offset when I get the car back.

The hats for the AP rotors will likely need to be custom made. AP doesn't offer universal hats.

Wilwood offers a few hats with the AP 12X7 rotor circle and ford 5X4.5 bolt circle that may work.


Thanks Kristian
that was my idea Wink
Here's a $100 project for those wanting to shed some weight of their Pantera.

Building an aluminum skinned front lid.

This is of course for my Gr4 build, but it would be pretty cool on a street Pantera too.

I had an old accident bend front lid lying around that I wanted to experiment with. So I separated the outer skin from the inner structure.

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While I had the inner structure media blasted I started working on the outer skin. Bought a 1 mm aluminum sheet. Using an intact lid as a template I cut the sheet into shape

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Then, again using the intact lid as a form, I carefully bend the sheet around the lid and slowly shaped the edges with a hammer, while keeping track of measurements.

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