Mark;
It is a great question, and one that is really hard to answer, since everyone has a opinon on the topic.
If you were going to show the goose at AACA, they would say you have to match the orginal design. As for any other car show, I am guessing they will not be able to tell you that it was not orginal unless the design looks too modern. With the price of gooses going into the upper limit, I am guessing originality will count for something. But as I learned years ago, deTomaso was never about originality.
A couple of years ago, I was talking to my aunt about the idea of an Orginal Pantera. She said that when they had a "reunion" a couple of years after the Pantera was launched, people asked to be judged. Bertocci(not sure of the spelling) was asked to do the judging. He took points off for everything that he believed was not original. She said that in the end, he said only a Pantera that was pushed into the event would have been original. The net net is, do what you want, but if you want to drive it, I would have the best radiator you can find, as nothing is worse than an over heating car.
Door #2 Monte!!!
20% increase but look old!!!
Steve
20% increase but look old!!!
Steve
deniscCaretaker of 8MA1244 '70 Euro Mangusta DRIVE THEM, THEY WERE MEANT TO BE DRIVEN, IF YOU WANT TO LOOK AT ONE, BUY A POSTER!
Jean, PM message sent
Denis
Denis
Attached is a pic of the rear drivers side lower frame. Inside the red rectangular container, you can see that at some point in its life, the car's frame has been indented/compressed when the skid plate was bolted on too tightly.
If this is no big deal (ie, not being a structural engineer, I have no idea if this is actually a frame integrity issue), I won't worry about it. I will just clean up frame and POR-15 it to prevent rust.
However, if need be, I can craft 4 appropriately sized pieces steel and weld them around all four sides of the damaged area.
Thoughts?
Thanx
Mark
NOTE: this pic shows pretty well how the frame was modified at some point to accommodate the Boss 302 motor.
If this is no big deal (ie, not being a structural engineer, I have no idea if this is actually a frame integrity issue), I won't worry about it. I will just clean up frame and POR-15 it to prevent rust.
However, if need be, I can craft 4 appropriately sized pieces steel and weld them around all four sides of the damaged area.
Thoughts?
Thanx
Mark
NOTE: this pic shows pretty well how the frame was modified at some point to accommodate the Boss 302 motor.
Attachments
For a nice tidy look, drill out the skidplate holes, heat & lift up the crushed frame section(s) and weld in a tube spacer to reinforce the bolt. Running a skidplate is an excellent upgrade to a Goose especially one running low-profile radial rear tires.
If I still had one, I'd use a 7" (or 5-3/4") double-disc race clutch, a matching small OD flywheel, a reversed starter and trim the bottom of the bellhousing off. One could gain about 3" of badly needed extra ground clearance for maybe $3000.
If I still had one, I'd use a 7" (or 5-3/4") double-disc race clutch, a matching small OD flywheel, a reversed starter and trim the bottom of the bellhousing off. One could gain about 3" of badly needed extra ground clearance for maybe $3000.
Got 'recored' radiator back today. Went with 20% increase - staggered tubes and louvered pins while maintaining original look.
Interestingly, they said they had to scrap the first core they made because as they installed it, they realized that this radiator had directly flow through separate baffles on the top and bottom. Said Ferrari had also tried this (probably same radiator company!) in the 60's.
Interestingly, they said they had to scrap the first core they made because as they installed it, they realized that this radiator had directly flow through separate baffles on the top and bottom. Said Ferrari had also tried this (probably same radiator company!) in the 60's.
Attachments
Mark,
So what did you end up with in terms of fluid flow? Are these tanks open end to end now vs having baffles to redirect (twice thru???) ??
What are "directly flow thru separate baffles"?
Was it like the failed Pantera "double flow" radiators that are so scorned today?
Very nice job!!!
Steve
(Has no original radiator to play with.. )
So what did you end up with in terms of fluid flow? Are these tanks open end to end now vs having baffles to redirect (twice thru???) ??
What are "directly flow thru separate baffles"?
Was it like the failed Pantera "double flow" radiators that are so scorned today?
Very nice job!!!
Steve
(Has no original radiator to play with.. )
As best I can tell, the owner indicated that the hot coolant comes into a baffle in the top tank, flows down thru a set of tubes (in this case staggered vs the original inline), then back up thru the next set of tubes into the next baffle and then back down, etc. until it exits 'icy cold' (ha).
I didn't see the inside of the tank so I can't confirm the configuration, and am not familiar with Pantera radiator.
Hopefully the staggered tubes and louvered pins will make this goose run a little cooler.
Mark
I didn't see the inside of the tank so I can't confirm the configuration, and am not familiar with Pantera radiator.
Hopefully the staggered tubes and louvered pins will make this goose run a little cooler.
Mark
About this time you might check the whole chassis closely. The last 'Goose I saw in restoration had a cracked frame tube in the left front side near the firewall.... found AFTER a gorgeous paint job and front trunk reupholstery. Made a simple weld repair extremely difficult. Same car also had the e-brake pulley behind the front bumper broken loose and previously repaired by village blacksmiths.... Another difficult fix due to the upholstery & paint.
Couldn't find in forum but has anyone tried alumi blast on bellhousing and ZF? Soda blasted bellhousing today and although its really clean, nothing spectacular to shout about.
A better result can be achieved through Vapour blasting. A bit like a sandblast cabinet with a wiper on the inside. Blasts with water and small round glass type beads. The finish is like new and does not leave finger prints on alloy when touched. Mike
deniscCaretaker of 8MA1244 '70 Euro Mangusta DRIVE THEM, THEY WERE MEANT TO BE DRIVEN, IF YOU WANT TO LOOK AT ONE, BUY A POSTER!
I had my bell housing cleaned by the local transmission shop they put it in rotating steam & solvent cabinet for couple hours. I took it home , re-cleaned with brake cleaner and a little paint stripper VHT caliper clear aerosol paint.
Well, Goose has been at paint shop a long time. Told them up front I wasn't in a hurry and they took me at my word! Expect to get it back beginning of the new year.
Motor top end rebuilt and have decided to build headers to accommodate Boss motor and rear chassis frame. Shortees and normal long pre-fab headers, whether right side up or upside down, just won't fit.
Mufflers are original and tips need to be re-welded to drivers side muffler. Got me thinking, has anyone installed more modern muffler and retained original look? If so, what mufflers have been used? Boss motor will have IDA webers and 1 3/4 OD headers so would like mufflers to not inhibit carb/motor/header combination.
Thanx
Motor top end rebuilt and have decided to build headers to accommodate Boss motor and rear chassis frame. Shortees and normal long pre-fab headers, whether right side up or upside down, just won't fit.
Mufflers are original and tips need to be re-welded to drivers side muffler. Got me thinking, has anyone installed more modern muffler and retained original look? If so, what mufflers have been used? Boss motor will have IDA webers and 1 3/4 OD headers so would like mufflers to not inhibit carb/motor/header combination.
Thanx
I'd love to see some restoration pics of any kind. I've got a goose also. Not sure I'm ready to go down that path,love to see any pics at all of it apart. Dan Mershon 937 605 1505. dan@mershons.com. Thanks
quote:Originally posted by Dan Mershon:
I'd love to see some restoration pics of any kind. I've got a goose also. Not sure I'm ready to go down that path,love to see any pics at all of it apart. Dan Mershon 937 605 1505. dan@mershons.com. Thanks
Dan , I send you a PM whit pictures.
Simon
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