....just as I thought I could jail break out of Covid and go back home, my wife got pregnant and I'm still in Taiwan--I still haven't gotten a chance to see these pieces (that I ship to the car in Houston). But my money is betting on the Lancia Appia or Ardea pins/latch. Yeah, I bought the latch (not needing one, but still so curious if they are the same 
) ...
To answer Steve's question, I have the male (upper) component of the forward left rear lid latching mechanism.
Lee, will hold off on buying Grecav Eke latch until I hear what you think of the Lancia pieces you have. Let us know what you think of those latches when you see them. By the way, where did you find/buy them?
If the Grecav Eke latch is too small, how would the bearclaw latch in this pic work with a little "metallurgy" done to it?
Sorry for the delay--my suggestion is start with "scontro Perno" on Lancia Appia or Ardea, on Ebay Italy, and work backwards (contact the seller and see if they have a latch). The Grecav Eke may eventually work, but the pin is rounder. Here are a couple shots to take first;
https://www.ebay.it/itm/325746...p;LH_ItemCondition=4
Saw all parts of Goose completely painted and polished in platinum yesterday. Looks pretty good. Shop is reassembling, cleaning/painting engine and side bays, and fabricating and installing some parts lost during the process.
Wheel wise, anyone know if the wheels on prototype were silver, or platinum, or a mix of the two colors? Right now my wheels are silver. Atch 1 is a pic 'Roger' posted a while back of the prototype that shows the wheels platinum. Atch 2 is the way my wheels were when I bought the car with the wheel centers/spokes matching the original color of the car.
I wonder (loudly! 
) if the gold insert wasn't an owner change....
I have been seeking Ford Argent Wheel paint from VHT, for my new (to me) Pantera rims, and apparently the entire planet has been sucked dry of this version.
On my Goose I went with a BMW powder coating if I recall correctly. There are some Dupont numbers scrawled on the receipt, but it appears that it was a two part thing as one of them is clear....... I do not recall approving a two part.....as I hate two part paints.....trouble trouble trouble!!!
I think mine came out just a tad bright, but all I had to compare to was 15+ year old stripped to bare magnesium wheels.....not even close...!!!! So I just went with the BMW thing. Now, this was back in the early 00's that I had mine done. The coating held up VERY well!!!
Some pic's for you.
Steve
MUTTSJET,
Wheels on #596 had gold paint on the spokes. I wish I knew the answers to your question about the finish on the prototype wheels. I'd like to spend the rest of the afternoon researching that but of course, life has other plans.
A cool trick is to finish with a clear coat but use what's called a 'knockdown' clear coat. Keeps things from looking too shiny. I think we used a 25% knockdown.
It gives a special glow to the wheels that's hard to describe. Pleasing to the eye but not distract from the rest of the car.
One more thing; a horror story from the gent who did my wheels-
Lamborghini Diablo has Campagnolo wheels. The shop refinished the wheels, reinstalled them, and torqued the lugs to the proper value. Customer picks up the Diablo and makes it down the street until the first high-speed turn. The front wheel came loose, flew off, and did massive damage to the car. Apparently, (according to the story) it was due to the fact that they refinished the area where the lug lands against the wheel. Either the slick finish or the added millimeters somehow caused the wheel to come loose. So moving forward the guy always leaves a tiny bare space where the lug lands. Not visible once the wheel is installed.
I always sort of suspected someone forgot to torque the wheels and that was the true cause. I mean of course, you're going to blame some exotic thing like refinishing because, with that construction, some of the blame is shirked off to the idea of an exotic and arcane cause. Makes you look a little less stupid than if you simply forgot to tighten the lugs. So potentially it's a BS story but I wanted to share for fun.
I looked at a bunch of cars listed on the PromaMO site. with the exception of a few cars with aftermarket wheels and the red car with gold inserts on the wheels, they all have what appears to be Argent Silver painted wheels identical in color to the Pantera wheel. I dont see anything that looks platinum. If you have an account, check them all out as there must be 250 cars on the site.
Thanx for inputs on wheels. Here's another pic of the prototype with the body color wheels. Just trying to get my brain around which looks best. My Goose will be back to its original color (or close to it), and, with its IDA Webers, will look just about like this pic of the prototype.
I think your picture may have been tinted or something as 001 is in the registry as posts by Mike Drew when seen in Italy and the wheels are just like all the other cars. Hope this helps.
deniscCaretaker of 8MA1244 '70 Euro Mangusta DRIVE THEM, THEY WERE MEANT TO BE DRIVEN, IF YOU WANT TO LOOK AT ONE, BUY A POSTER!
Simple answer. The 1st pic is the pusher the second is the driver when they converted the Prototipo to a real car. So both are correct. I have a wheel I acquired with little or no real road use. The color as Steve has mentioned are a Ford /Mazda silver. The wheels were clear coated and that clear has yellowed. Not as bad as the pic but still. I seem to remember a miura with gold wheels as well. That may have been a period thing to do.
What you want to do here is ditch the Boss 302 heads. Go with AFR #1388 heads.
They outflow stock Cleveland and B2 heads by a lot. Right around 300cfm out of the box with a mild .500" lift cam. Try 250's for C and B2 iron heads. They are Windsor style and will bolt up to your 'goose headers.
You will also loose 55 pounds from the engine assembly because they are aluminum and they are a direct replacement for 302 iron heads.
You can mill them up to .020" to play with the combustion chamber cc's. You can easily get them down to 54cc's.
Then you can go with a Cobra style Weber intake which are much more plentiful then B2 Weber intakes. How you deal with the jack shaft I don't know but I have seen Webers on running Mangusta's so it must be doable.
On using a jack shaft with IDA Webers it is possible. You won't be able the run the existing jackshaft, you have to fabricate 2 brackets at each end, its the jackshaft mount not the actual shaft that gets in the way. I can't seem to find a photo of the final set up we had, this are from the early mock up. We put the Webers on when contemplating racing it but found while its sounded awesome we never quite got to grips with (more like we didn't spent enough time to get to) a proper tune for it. Its was more powerful (or at least easier get the power) with the Holley. Torque and throttle response is much better with Webers though. There are a couple of IDA manifolds which are made and some have the carbs angled which I think could provide even more clearance for the jackshaft.
Hopefully the pictures assist.
IIRC we use chrome moly tube as you need to be conscious of Critical Speed and whip, if going full on to full off with the throttle. but again IIRC we only used bearings at each end not in the middle.
Cheers
Larry
@leea posted:....just as I thought I could jail break out of Covid and go back home, my wife got pregnant and I'm still in Taiwan--I still haven't gotten a chance to see these pieces (that I ship to the car in Houston). But my money is betting on the Lancia Appia or Ardea pins/latch. Yeah, I bought the latch (not needing one, but still so curious if they are the same
Congratulations to you Sir! You might be surprised to read this; but babies can be born outside of Taiwan. No need to remain for that.
OK back on topic sorry for the hi-jack.
@scifi posted:Congratulations to you Sir! You might be surprised to read this; but babies can be born outside of Taiwan. No need to remain for that.
OK back on topic sorry for the hi-jack.
...well, the critical thing is that the wife got pregnant while I was in Taiwan... But I'll be sneaking back for the first time in almost 4 years, one month from now...
..btw, re: the whipping jackshaft---At least what strikes me is that the original jackshaft housing (as a single piece tied on both ends, and a very short distance between the mounting on the engine and the bearing centers) is different here (where front and rear uprights are independent, with apparently a long distance between mounting bolts and bearing center). Is there any feature necessary to align front to rear?
I can see why 8ma1074 mounted (with just a high rise manifold) their alternator to the front and (in Emeryville CA) sacrificed AC...)
Are the Ghia emblems on the front fenders 38mm tall? Trying to find a couple since they were lost in paint process.
deniscCaretaker of 8MA1244 '70 Euro Mangusta DRIVE THEM, THEY WERE MEANT TO BE DRIVEN, IF YOU WANT TO LOOK AT ONE, BUY A POSTER!
Try sending Johnny woods a note he had a few OE Ghia NOS emblems stashed away a while back.
