I will delve into the mystery on Monday... Today was remove the covers and power wash it all... It will be a greasy mess anyway, but I agree, it does seem longer on that side... Once I get her torn apart I will have a better idea what is going on...
As always, the info & pics are welcomed and appreciated.
MH
There is an RVI conversion that can be done on the Tachometers that make them operate properly with an electronic (Pertronics) pickup…. I did it on my TVR.
My Tach was running at double the actual RPM as well… (oops… yours is running at 1/2 speed…)…
You can read about it here…
https://groups.io/g/usa-tvr/topic/83630746
Rocky
Mike and Scifi, when I had way too much time on my hands I fit a stepper motor tach into a Veglia can (and then got 90% finished with an Odometer, all for no good reason) https://pantera.infopop.cc/top...43#19905352124810043
Mike, I can only assume that the trigger for a Veglia is a strange timing consequence of the particular "monostable multivibrator" circuit, something I never quite figured out at the transistor level...Really, once connected to the the coil, you'd think that a trigger is a trigger is a trigger--but even on this blog, it seems a common experience to see a moving but inaccurate tach read. Maybe my stepper motor tach wasn't a complete waste of time...
Yes, a tach amp like this https://www.ebay.com/itm/142171581596 may have solved the tach on my 308 that wouldn't work after I put in the Electromotive ignition...and may be worth a try. But you know, the Pertronix "should be" working now...Lee
Mike, if anything, I am fabulously happy with the undercoating texture in my wheel wells 
but yeah, I felt like I was standing on my head looking at the pictures here...
Here is a closeup of the alignment spacers on the upper A-arm--as used on the other Heim joints. There is no compliance in the upper arm, only on the lowers (which I remember getting from Hall). (and yes, ignore the direction of the nylock, here just serving to avoid losing the pieces).
I needed one or two of the spacers, luckily found a machinist willing to make them...In the picture below, I cannot remember which was the exemplar and which the copy (but guess the original is far right).
The naked rods are also shown from an 8ma6xx car below (when the car was Al's and more perfect pieces were installed...and yes, that precious Mamut terminal block has been reunited back with its proper owner ).
Ok, front left suspension removed... The rear nut on the long double threaded bolt through the A arms had completely come off and the bolt was in the process of working it's way out !!! It appears there was no damage, but I'm still cleaning...
I'm in the process of sourcing the 40mm fiat 124 ball joints and the Fiat X-19 tie rod ends... I'm hopeful the front end refresh will go smoothly and quickly so I can get her in for paint & body soon...
Still haven't resolved that tachometer issue yet, but will experiment with a potentiometer to see if another resistance value will get me reading right... If i can find the right value, I'll put a VOM on the potentiometer and use a matching resistor... If that's doesn't work I'll try capacitors...
Bit by bit...
MH
Mike, if the tach is only "wrong" but working, it could be that just turning the trim pot in the Tach brings you whole...the tach/speedo are easy to open up (unlike the 2" gauges), the guts are not fragile or uncommon. It seems that some others just suffered noisy battery voltage to the tach (so a big cap on the Battery line right at the tach just might help, even an inductor/capacitor there). Since the tach triggers on that high voltage spike, its hard to know how an external resistor or capacitor on the Tach line will do much, but who knows...
...and then comes the paint and body?
I've been looking at the pot trim... I have a laser tachometer that i can use to calibrate with... But I haven't messed with it yet... I was hoping for a simple solution ...
Yes, the tach & speedo are easy to get into compared to the smaller ones for sure... The smaller ones aren't too bad... Just have to be patient with them...
MH
MIke,
Pic of Ball Joint from the factory circa 1996.... cast body vs stamped temporary steel....! My ball joints self destructed into multiple fragments....sorta like your a-arm bolt/nut affair!!! (That thing musta done all sorts of bad things on the roadways!) Hopefully the shaft will clean up fine!
I need to defer to others and their posts.....whether this be the "big" one or the "small" one (upper(less load) or lower (more load) depending on A-arm/spring design!)......but what you shouldn't need to do.....is grind anything to get things to fit! The balljoint should slip right in place to the a-arm cup!
My crusty brain thinks that the Fiat Mechanic nearby told me..."they were a 124 Joint.....". (Parts book does not give a Fiat number but rather a CAMOZZI name only reference....!)
The tie rod ends are listed as a Fiat 1100 or 1200 or 1300 or 1500 C Dino, or Multipla, or 2300RH..... also as a rear suspension arm thing on an X 1/9. Untouched by DeT! (Not modified!) Original Fiat number # 4100024
Progress!!!
Steve
@mangusta luckily the long bolt was still doing it's job... The nut had come off and the bolt was sliding forward... Not sure if all the access panels kept it in place, or just luck... Either way, i'm glad it was still there...
Apparently the X1/9 had several tie rod changes over the years, but I did find a thread on here with the part # (might have been one of your threads!!!)...
Most of the previously listed sources for the ball joints no longer carry them, midwest-bayless.com THINKS they have the 40mm... They are going to check it and let me know...
MH
For some historical part numbers again.....!
It seems tie rods for Fiat 125 and 1300 work (and well, those are also common for the stub axle itself...). The tie rod is male thread.
And it seems that also ball joints may be shared there also...Mr. Fiat, etc-- https://www.ebay.com/itm/313984785167 or
https://www.ebay.com/itm/13439...tkp%3ABk9SR9LOva_OYQ
or
https://www.ebay.com/itm/13413...7Ctkp%3ABFBM0s69r85h
All in all, more likely a fit is from Fiat 1300/1500 than the later Fiat 124 (esp because well, the parts manual points there 
!
Fiat Plus had the tie rod ends (I ordered them) but only one 40mm ball joint... He was putting the hard sell on me to modify my A arms to fit the 43mm ball joints... I'm not sold on modifying the original A arms though... Seems like a risky move considering the load they carry...
I've located Fiat part# 5882118 in the UK, Ireland & Italy, but NONE of them ship to the US... and their websites ALL seemed oddly similar...
So... Tie Rod ends located... Still searching on ball joints... Mr.Fiat was a no go... Still have a few calls out, so still hopeful...
MH
898 has returned to the shop!!! after almost 2 years in the paint shop she is finally home... mechanical restoration was completed prior to send her off for P&B, so at this point Lee and I are at about the same stage, Reassembly !!!
MH
I have a few pieces I still need to locate:
The retainer clip that holds the push button door lock cylinder in place, looks like a brake line retainer or shifter cable clip, inside opening is 20mm.
The rubber bumpers that fit on the adjuster bolts for frunk and deck lids.
The windshield squirter assembly in the cowl. LeeA gifted me a set of nozzles, but the main bit needs to either be rechromed or replaced. Likely cheaper to replace if it's a shared item with another car.
I'm sure there will be 100 more items in the near future and I greatly appreciate the wisdom/experience/Insight in this group.
Also, found this in my stockpile... I don't THINK it's a goose part, but it was in with the rest... does anyone recognize it?
MH
The clip that holds the door push button looks like the one used on my '67 and '68 Ford Mustangs. (Shelbys)
You might do a search using that criteria.
M!ke, what a relief, what great news to have your car painted...just looks great...can't wait for you to be driving again.
If you don't mind being obsessive (!), the really correct Trico Dual Washer with Knurled Jet for the Mangusta is a round base, not the version with the hex base. I have a bag of these somewhere (I think couldn't resist a grab bag of them, after I must of given you the jets themselves). But market price is generally about us$50 or more when they show up--so if you are having other plating done, you may get a freebie if you want to replate your old one.
I have seen Mangustas that have the round base, but don't have the knurled washer jets... but way too boring for me
And the mystery part is a mystery to me, I don't recognize it at all...Lee
Hi M!ke, congrats after that 2 yr wait, paint looks great!! That was a good move to address the mechanical stuff first, please keep us posted
@panteradoug posted:The clip that holds the door push button looks like the one used on my '67 and '68 Ford Mustangs. (Shelbys)
You might do a search using that criteria.
Doug, you were spot on... There is a place in Houston that sells Mustang parts (Think YearOne for Mustangs). I took the original in and they went to the back and returned with two options. Seems like the one for the trunk lock fit best. Not an exact match cosmetically, but fit like a glove. Thanks for the tip.
New on is at the top, original at bottom.
Gland to have helped!
