Pantera # 5357 - Rocky's 1973 L model

Hi Rocky,
Just getting caught up on some of the updates... First...I think 45min drivetrain removal may be a record. Very impressive. I think the Alt/AC bracket is slick.
- Sorry to hear about the rod bearing. I share your concern...why did it happen. I never like just moving forward w/o fully understanding the failure. Seems every time it do, I ended up with the failure again...
- Would love to see some detailed pics of the trans fixture when you get a chance.
- On the heads, what did you mean by "minor hole drilling for water flow"? I have never done this on the 351C heads, and would like to understand it more.

Keep us posted.

Thanks for the compliments!

My 45 minute removal didn't include all the work leading up to it - I'm not really THAT fast!


With regard to "Block and head drillage" - my block has an additional set of holes that match a set of holes in the head gaskets. The holes planned to be added to the heads are "loosely" located where the sharpie circles are.

The machining will certainly be more precise than the circles shown.

Benefits are more cooling of the exhaust port area.



Here is the ZF Fixture mentioned in a previous post, and some shots of the assembly on the stand....

This fixture was welded to a vertical tube (you can see the base of the stand to the far left of the picture - to the left of my shoe). It gives very good access to get the "stack" out of the case...



Fit Check:



Viola!

I figured it was time to put some more information up....

Latest project: Pantera Parts Connection ATO Fuse Box install.

Went in pretty easy - just a little pain-staking.

I always wanted to go to this type fuse although I never had any fuse problems... (knock on wood).

Took me about 1 1/2 hour for the install.

The old and the new - note how the PPC fuse box (lower) is interconnected with screws, vs. the old box, which uses a copper rivet technique.



My old wiring - here's what it looked like in there....



Window Fuses - Don't have an ATO box for this, but I do have a cover!....



Viola! - Finished result. Still need to swap out the fuzes to the representative values, but since my ZF & engine are still a little ways out, I have a little time.

Looks like a nice straight forward installation Rocky. I'll have to look into it....

Honestly, I thought that creating a "homemade" version of this should be do-able, you just need to source ATO fuse holders, and some kind of high quality, thin epoxy. Plus all the prep work on the rivets (to through-bolt them).

But I never got around to it....

Rocky;
Installed the same fuse holder as you. Take one wire off at a time, put it on the new fuse panel. Very straight forward and "peace of mind" later.

So if you are watching this thread, you might assume that I am not doing much on my car....

Well, you might be right, but I have not been COMPLETELY idle....

Here is the new battery disconnect switch, based on a realtime observation of a Pantera that had a starter that locked in the ON position...





Here's the "cleaned" engine bay...

(unfortunately, it doesn't look that much different than last time....)




Better organized than last time.....



Nice looking bell housing, I would say...




My motor is closer to reality... (2-3 weeks out). Working on rounding up the parts for the ZF - that's the big one now....

Rocky

Minor mod....

Trimmed down my removable e-brake bracket to give me a LITTLE more clearance on the radiator tubes....

Completed my Taurus Motor install. Thanks to Dale Gumm (longtime POCA member & DeTomaso owner) for the parts, and the instructions.

Also have my "reduced clearance rear bumper mounts" welded up. These will bring my L-model rear bumper back much closer to the car body - I think it looks better that way.

It also reduced the vehicle weight by about 2-3 lbs.

I think that no one will hit me in the back end.....

The end tubes are only temporarily installed. I need to drill the smallest diameter pipe to mount the bumper bracket, slide them to the correct depth and orientation, and then weld them up and paint them....

Bumpers and engine screens are going to be powder coated.

Rocky

Big News - Motor is Done! Whoo-Hoo!

So my motor has been through the wringer (actually, the washer), and it's now complete and ready.

Now I have to finish my transaxle.

Basically the engine is the same as it was except....

Reduced Compression from 10.5:1 to 10:1 via:

D1AE GA Closed Chamber Heads

L2379F .030 Flat Top Pistons

Judicious Milling of Deck and Heads

Slight "Align Bore" (.005") to ensure Block and Crank Alignment

Main Bearing Clearances Set (.0025")

"New to Me" Crank (351C Cast - Nodular Iron)

Checked for Straightness

Micro Polished

Rod Bearing Clearances Set (.0025")

Intake Manifold Heat Riser Block Off Plate

Flow Measurements Collected with:

Intake - Heads Alone

Intake - Heads and Intake manifold

Intake - Heads, Port Plates and Intake manifold

Exhaust - Heads Alone

Exhaust - Heads and Headers

Nice!!

ooooh... that's very pretty...!!

Engine is beginning reassembly.

WHENEVER I take this engine out from undercover - it rains. It is unbelievable. Saturday morning we got hail.... In Tucson AZ!




So I first did some of the real basic stuff - got the flywheel on, intake manifold bolts, oil pressure sender, PCV plumbing, etc.

Did you see this cool flywheel? Now it's degreed on every cylinder pair at 0 Deg, 16 Deg and 36 Deg.



Couldn't help pulling off the valve covers to see that beautiful rocker assembly...







Today I got my AC Compressor and outboard alternator, and all the belts/pulleys attached.



Also received the remaining ZF parts from RBT. Assembly begins soon.

Finally - I am excited about my new Throttle Cable support bracket (John Taphorn design). I am sure this will ALWAYS give me a "full pull" on that throttle cable....





Finally - coming back together!

Chuck,


Looking great! Two words of advise... If you are using Kirk's engine cover , make sure that your water pump tentioner pulley clears . It sometimes takes some massaging to clear.
Second, you might want to enlarge the three compressor mounting holes in the block. The front two bolts go from 5/16" to 3/8 " and the rear one goes from 3/8" to 5/8" . That is a LOT of weight hanging off of those small bolts!
I once had a block crack along the boss that the rear bolt attaches to and leak coolant.
Ron

Good Ideas.

I have the engine cover fabbed and clearanced, so I think I'm good there.

I think you have a good suggestion on the bolt enlargement. I'll check that out.

Thanks -

Chuck

Big News...

ZF is going back together.. We are about 65% complete with the assembly....

Completed Output Stack....

Lots more was done - I just don't have enough time to post more pix!

Rocky

Still making (slow) progress. Standing by for a couple of parts of the ZF. In the mean time.....

Got my engine screens back from the powdercoater.... They look super in a wrinkle finish black.



Also got the bumper powdercoated in a satin black.

Completed my "flush mount" rear bumper project. The intent was to move the bumper in about 3 inches closer to the body. It looks good, but honestly, for all the time I spent on this, I am not sure if the results are as noticeable as I thought they would be.

Nevertheless, another project completed!







Anyway - progress continues!

Rocky

quote:

Originally posted by Rocky:....
Completed my "flush mount" rear bumper project. The intent was to move the bumper in about 3 inches closer to the body. It looks good, but honestly, for all the time I spent on this, I am not sure if the results are as noticeable as I thought they would be...Rocky

To me, it makes the CAR look finished, where the stand off looks like it needs to be pushed on some more.

Something I just thought about and hope you addressed; with the standing off bumper, I remember the plates were slightly covered by the bumper. So does your plate now fit?

Did the wire mesh for the engine cover get the wrinkle finish?

quote:

the plates were slightly covered by the bumper. So does your plate now fit?

Did the wire mesh for the engine cover get the wrinkle finish?

Moving the license plate up was just a matter of a little filing on the plate and frame to move it up about 1/4". The license plate frame sits on my bumper in the recess. I am going to have to go back in and put a little pad so I don't scratch up my new powder coating with the license plate frame.

The wire mesh cover was done with the wrinkle finish. It came out great.

Rocky