Once disconnected can the pedal set be pulled out through the front trunk without removing the pedals first?

 

Last edited by George P
Original Post

Funny I've just done it. I found it easy enough to remove and refit the pedal box when I had the brake master cylinder and booster off and I removed the accelerator pedal to make installation easier.

Good luck!

Many people, including the Pantera vendors, cut a small notch on the passenger side of the pedal box opening, that makes the job 100x easier. Here’s a diagram a certain SoCal vendor gave me, that shows the notch. 

F00B9394-E571-4D40-B61E-3CFE4B7CE5C9

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Last edited by davidnunn

3363BD5E-2F6C-466F-B233-1FA72418B5F62EDC22D1-FD75-46F8-A362-BC66E3FEEC87

 The sharing of tips amongst owners is one of the best things about this community because someone has always been there before us and found a better way. 

I would like to share something I fabbed  up last week and while I have yet to install it, I see no reason how it will cause any issues.

In the photos I have not yet welded the bolt heads to the support bracket but once that is done the project will be complete. 

Larry

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Last edited by George P
lf-tp2511 posted:

3363BD5E-2F6C-466F-B233-1FA72418B5F62EDC22D1-FD75-46F8-A362-BC66E3FEEC87

 The sharing of tips amongst owners is one of the best things about this community because someone has always been there before us and found a better way. 

I would like to share something I fabbed  up last week and while I have yet to install it, I see no reason how it will cause any issues.

In the photos I have not yet welded the bolt heads to the support bracket but once that is done the project will be complete. 

Larry

Did you end up using a linger bolt for the clutch or was the original adequate?  Also, what center spacing did you use for the  bolts?

 My master cylinder for the clutch is an aftermarket unit that has 2 1/4” hole spacing. I believe the factory unit spacing is approximately 2 1/8”. 

 My pedal plate holes have both been elongated to allow the use of the aftermarket master cylinder. I believe the aluminum spacer’s purpose is to stabilize the bolts due to that elongation.  

 The bracket I made is no more than 1/16” thick so I doubt different length bolts would be needed for a stock assembly. 

 Therefore, the specifics of my bracket will not transfer to a stock assembly, but the concept certainly will. 

Larry 

First I've heard of cutting a triangle out of the side of the pedal box. I always punched a 1-1/2" round hole so I could plug the access hole afterward with a 25¢ plastic plug from Home Depot. Problems with disassembly stem from the use of a mild steel pin that wears in use, causing a step that interferes with pin removal- especially if the pin was inserted with the head towards the center of the car! There isn't enough clearance to shove the pin out in that direction.... Another reason to use hardened pivot pins on ALL the pedals.

Just got done with the reduction kit, please note the to install I detached the clutch pedal return spring, this allowed the clutch MC pivot arm to move further toward the pedal plate assembly that in turn allowed the plate to clear the opening.

Cant say enough good things about Pantera Performance, they sold me the reduction kit and what a great product.

The pedal box comes right out just another day at the office. Don't take the booster or brake master off or the cl/master. For reinstall, cut a small notch with the die grinder, you'll see where when you try to reinstall, lol. Change out the clutch pedal/brake pedal springs when it's on the bench. Easy job again, wrap it up there from the bottom through around the pedal[s] & up, wind it around the shaft. It can also be done in the car but you won't believe it. It's just a spring. Wind it in.

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