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A couple weeks ago I found the Jehle Deauville, in what seemed to have been its Tomb over the last couple decades.

As there seem to be very little activity around the Longchamps and Deuville around the web, I figured a "project thread" could serve a purpose. It's also nice to have a log of what has been done to the car.

The car was posted on the local classifieds site (, only a few miles of where I live. Having never owned anything Italian, and hardly ever seen a De Tomaso, natural course of action was to go and check out this curiosity.

Deauville - BarnDeauville - barn3Deauville - barn2

Never having been very bright, I bought the car.

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That's the face of stupid.

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At this point I did not know much about the car. Deuville or Xaver Jehle.


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Last edited by S.Hafsmo
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Couple hours drive later, I finally got the car home.


After a quick rinse it looks like this. I am aware that there are shared opinions with regards to the way the car looks with the Jehle modifications, but I think it looks fantastic. Though I've always loved an oddball.


I have conversed a little bit with Mr. Jehle himself after acquiring the car (through e-mail and via a few facebook-group members), and he could enlighten me on some of the changes he made to it.

It seems he completely restored the chassis of the vehicle, and replaced all rusty sheet metal. He then re-created the whole bodywork (except roof) in fibreglass. Doors, hood, fenders, rear end - all fibreglass. And as you can see, the trunk lid is made from aluminium. The latter might be stock, but having never seen an original Deauville, I have nothing to compare with.

The new fibreglass body is wider at the front and rear. The change is more discreet in the front, while the rear is based on the Jehle Longchamp flares.

He also found the moulds for the body in his workshop. Still hoping he will find som papers on the car in his archives / office.311041317_627001772299508_7437650670026335294_n


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Last edited by S.Hafsmo

Good news!

It is an original Dutch delivered car. The engine number should be 351/173, which should be near the thermostat house on the front of the block. The original colours were Oro Longchamp with a full brown leather interior. First registration was on 30-10-1978 to a private owner.

It left Holland a long time ago. The Dutch DMV go through their books every couple of years for inactive registrations.This one was taken out in 1991, meaning it probably left the country in the late eighties.

I will call my contact who was the service manager for DT in Holland at the time.

He made duplicate records of all DT cars sold and serviced by them and he still has them. All in their own binder, in numerical order stored in filing cabinets. It is quiet amazing that he still has these.

Keep you posted.



I just wanted to mention that your photos are inserted & attachment boxes collapsed. Thank you for your effort.

If you ever feel you'd like to move this topic (thread) to another forum, such as the "specific De Tomaso photo forum" or the "Longchamp & Deauville tech forum" let me know, its easy for me to do.

Its no longer the Jehle Deauville, its the Hafsmo Deauville. Good luck with your car.


Last edited by George P


I was not certain to where exactly to put such a topic, and the "Longchamp & Deauville tech" may very well be a better place. I couldn't find any similar car-restoration-blog topics.

I am hoping to fill this topic with fault findings and repairs as I progress through them, as well as asking technical questions.

And thank you. Luck will most certainly be needed.

Had to look for a while to find out where the fuel pumps were located. Not a setup I am familiar with.

They don't exacly look brand new, but seem to be operational. New seals and filters have been ordered.



Brake calipers I assume will need new rubber, and I am expecting rusty pistons. I've seen caliper repair kits on E-bay which also state stainless pistons. Anyone familiar with these kits?



Brake master cylinder has internal leakage. Repair kit for Ferrari 328 has been ordered, and I'll post here if it fits / fixes the issue. The orignal metal cap didn't look great, but I see there are replacements available out there.


Apologies for the lack of cleanliness. I've got kids, so I must prioritize when I'm in the garage. At least I found what seems to be the wiper motor? Also a setup I've never seen before.


New seals ordered for the engine. When time allows it I'll do an internal inspection of this lump of metal. I assume the odds of finding closed chamber heads are close to 0 on a '78?

20221015_210653Leaking main seal?

Rack seems to be ok, but ofcourse, I have never driven the car..20221015_210701

Underbelly of the beast. Is it not normal to have hardlines on the fuel supply?



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Rear parking brake design looks much the same as a Jensen Interceptor Mark111.

There is a place in the UK (Martin Robey) that could probably provide parts (certainly the pads) if they are the same…

A first quick check would be to look at the pads, and verify yours have the tapered friction surfaces that they show on the drawing.

if you’re parking brake it was like mine though, it just needed a lot of cleanup in judicious lubrication.

Hope this helps…


The brakes are indeed Girling types used on many late 60s and early 70s Astons.

Also on Lamborghini Espada and Islero and most Maserati from the late sixties.

The fuel line really needs to be hard line with an 8 mm OD.

A straight swap for the master cylinder would be from a late 80s Iveco Dailly truck or Fiat Ducato believe it or not.

The wiper motor is pretty comon. Mostly used on Rover P6 and Triumph Stag.

The fuel pumps look like they have seen better days but hey, if they work why not! Might have to change the filter more often.

I flushed and coated my tanks with POR 15 tank cleaner and tank coating. Great stuff and good security against leaking or crud that keeps coming loose and cloging the filters.

Dutchie; I don't suppose you would have a picture of how such a hardline would be routed?

Fuel pumps will be replaced at some point, but for now they will have to do.

The DB6 brakes seem to be slightly different than the Deauville, utilizing 40 and 57mm pistons, where the Deauville uses 43 and 60mm pistons.

The gas tanks seem to be in decent order, but as a preventive measure I think I'll do the POR 15 tank treatment. Users seem satisfied with the results it gives.

Anyone know of a decent paint shop somewhere in Europe that can be trusted, while not parting me from all my assets?

I saw that (the ebay ad at 57mm vs. the 60mm on Mangusta and apparently on the Deauville as well...with 43mm still for the small ones). The ad mentions they have  2 sizes yeah, I'd just measure up and ask to confirm the set--$100 for the whole set of Stainless pistons and gaskets is a really great deal--Lee

Last edited by leea

The QP-units do indeed look similar.

My progress with the car had to be paused a bit, as the garage needed an upgrade. The purchase of the De Tomaso was not planned, and a bit premature, so its "home" wasn't entirely completed. The presence of a car inside a building under construction does not make completion of the building any easyer.

So, work proceeds in baby-steps. 20221018_20452120221026_220222

As you can see, I am in dire need of storage space, to allow for a clean working environment.


Other projects had to be re-located.


Need to find space for this beast as well. Fresh from the paint booth.



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Last edited by S.Hafsmo

..looks like you are full steam going on it..

just on the Isetta guess 250 ccm or may be 300 ccm if industrial Motor..with all respect you want to finish this as prices are going up like crazy.., if Car would be in Germany I would come by and get it..20k€ and up...

De Tomaso#s are flat after the hyp the last years in Europe (tell me otherwise mind...I enjoy my GTS Monster.4907..(besides my C2)


Last edited by matg

Winter is upon us. Getting cold outside these days.


Work does however continue, even if at a rather slow pace. I am currently going through the ignition and the fuel system. Replacing coils, caps, rotors, sparkplugs, starter relay etc. While doing so I stumble across this unit below the starter relay. Anyone who can tell it's purpose?





From what I can find online, it seems to be the voltage regulator.

Would it make sense to upgrade to a more modern alternator, with integrated voltage regulator?


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Last edited by S.Hafsmo above...voltage regulator. Looks like an "electronic" device vs old type only per sophisticated relay type as per Bosch in the 6thies (not saying even they are bad.. electronic is prob better to regulate the voltage).

I see NO reason to change, google spec, would guess Alternator current matters! What is in the car? Alternator old type generator.

On this wonderful cars there is more to fix than the regulator 10 cents.

Matthias /Stuttgart Germany

Work continues at reduced pace.

The carb is getting a refurb, and by the looks of it, it was probably due.20230104_183826

Quite a bit of debris in the secondary bowl. 20221216_20355720221216_20554120230108_201743

Choke bimetal spring was broken. Not doing much without the central tab.


Started going through the electrics as well. Seems to have been a bit of moist in the fuse box, probably coming through a leaky windshield seal.


Heat has been developing around quite a few fuses, and the fuse box has started to melt.


The relays also need a bit of TLC.


The current plan is to replace the entire fuse box / relay board with a more modern system, so if anyone has a wiring diagram for a 78 Deauville that would be much appreciated.


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My guess is that fuse box is the same as the ones in the Pantera…. There are too few Deauvilles built to come up with a new design.

You may be able to use the Pantera Electronics high-tech fuse box, or if you decide not to get that modern, there is a modified box (I think they came from Pantera Parts Connection in Nevada) that convert to ATO (blade) fuses.  They are a wire-for-wire replacement for the Pantera box.


Last edited by rocky

On the fuse box...
Panteras have a fuse box produced out of BAKELIT an early "plastic". It is very hard and does not really melt. I suggest you make a Foto on the fuse side, take them all out, get new once and add one by one back in AFTER a full cleaning of the connectors.  Even a steam cleaner does help besides mechanical of other chemical cleaning. If connection parts corrode the cross resistance will increase hence it start building up "heat". I kept. my old fuse box but added all new fuses. Modern fuse boxes are more reliable as dif fuse design/blade type.

A switch of a fuse box without a full documented wiring diagram is a killer. As you put fuses one by one back see what the fuse controls and COMPARE the result with the very well documented Pantera wireing diagram / see tech pages. AND DOCUMENT every cable !! Use the pantera diagrams to add the color code and wire gauge to it.

The heavy current is related to (so they are the candidates for "burning")
1) Radiator Fans
2) Headlight and motors. you def convert to H4 so heavy current on the ignition swithc!!!
3) Window motors..
4) honk horn!!!  sucks easily 20 amps!  if stuck may be 30 plus

You need to rewire these anyways as all current is running via the ignition switch a BAD resign of the old days. All need to set up via new relays. Existing wires serve just a Relay control signals! So keep all in place!

On the Relay panel well, as above take a foto take one by one out and test it. Panteras have this complex relay for the head light motors, I do not see it in your picture. The old relays are good and reliable but can be replaced by modern once 5 USD China stuff/Hella or Bosch. The old type metal housing type is hard to come by and costly. Relays in general nothing wild, simple on off, active on or active off you need to test it. The numbering on the relay connectors are standard so you can easiy figure out that type of relay you deal with. Also new relays optionally work on sockets so you can build a nice  socket set up. ..and DOCUMENT what you did


Last edited by matg

As the car will be completly restored, I am considering to remove the entire harness, and create a new one, preferably with a under-hood fuse box in addition to the one in the cabin. Always preferable to to keep relays/fuses close to the heavy consumers.

In my head, the project setup would look something like this,


I've been looking at this setup, as it looks quite flexible. If anyone has experiance with other, similar setups, please let me know.

Waterproof Power Distribution Centers

I replaced all the fuses when I inspected the fuse box, as well as cleaned all the contact points. I also removed all the connectors and cleaned their contact surfaces.


I'll do the same with the relays - open them and clean the internal contact surfaces, but I've noticed that a few of them allow movement of the stationary contacts (pressing on the connectors pushes the contact point upwards inside the relay), which is not ideal.


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Hi Stefen,

There is only 1 wiring diagram for the Deauville and that is the one in the back of the owners manual. This is for series 1 with 12 fuses.

It is mostly the same, lets say 80% usable for our series of Deauville. As far as I know all updates and expansions on the wiring were done as needed and not documented. In fact, the man who made the looms was an outside contractor who was hired as needed. No one, other than him worked on the looms so he had all the knowledge.

I remade most of the wiring in mine with a homemade blade style fusebox.

Nice to see you are making progress! keep it up.


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I've been slowly working my way through the wiring diagram, to make a coloured, vector-based diagram with a bit more detail. But I have stumbled upon a couple translation issues.

While I do know most italian colours, I cannot seem to figure out what colour OC refers to?

These also create a bit of confusion; RS and RO (Rosso and Rosa?)

temp. wiring diagram


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well think I told you to do reverse engineering..start with the Pandera diagrams, they are good and your car is NOT much different in respect of "what goes where". The diagram you posted might be good for an overview but a night mare to really fix the loom.

on color code well I did try Italian restaurants..,, look for an older fellow honestly this did work.

And again USE the PANTERA tech diagrams. All you need is there, as it is a logical view (in Architecture terms)  (shows all needed links without if it is front or rear or any. and it splits it up in "subsystem" level..) this is waht helps you to rebuild the loom not a physical. I did the full loom on my basement table is a peace of hard work and top organization required ..

What I saw from above is right put the loom out AFTER naming all ends to from where they come from. Have a big ply wood or sort of thing add nails in the needed bend corners etc..that will work. I added/replaced app 500 meters of new cable.!  Also as you replace with the CORRECT COLOR you can reduce quite a bit of the cable diameter as modern cable is more Amp "resistant". This helps to make the bending of the loom as it goes back more flexible..

..also as a above RE-ENGINEER head lights and cooler fans..

my 6 cents..happy to help..get you some pictures of my set up later..on a run..


Probably a solvent based two-stage laquer.

Mine were peeling also and I refinished the ones on the doors years ago. I still have to do the dash. I used a high quallity single stage boat varnish and brush applied it in 3 or 4 layers. The final coat I did it with a spraygun with diluted varnish. Looks great but slightly lighter in color since I didn't use any pigment in the laquer. For me that looks better with the black leather and silver velours that I have.

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