DON'T IT FEEL GOOD?????!!!!!!
Each thing you bolt on from here out will be all that much closer to VROOOM!!!!
Exciting!!!!
Steve
I was so tired of seeing that empty engine bay!!! Then so stressed about the install... Luckily I recruited several friends that are also wrenchers... More eyes and hands are always a good thing when shoving the baby back into the womb!!!
Only issues so far were that the alternator bridge wouldn't go in until I unbolted the frame bride and lifted the ZF up a bit... But it's in and happy... Also, somehow when I put the shifter shaft back in i ran the rear end of it outside of the frame rails and didn't tuck it back in at the rear... and of course now I have to take apart the middle u-joint to route it properly... But no broken rear window or damaged parts... So I call it a good day...
I hope to have her ready to start next weekend...
Thanks to you Steve and the rest of you guys for all the tips, advice, warnings and encouragement along the way... Front suspension is next, then off to paint and body...
The journey continues!!!
MH
Mike,
Ah yes, that pesky rear upper ladder bar!!! I recall futzing with that and bellhousing or ???? removal/install!!!
Front suspension is easy peasy!
Please tell me that once you get it running AND rolling, that you'll take it for a spin or three and see how it feels!!!!! Perhaps you'll reconsider painting it...... 
Steve
I'll take her around the block a few times, but she'll be in for paint soon... I have already stripped lights and shiny bits in preparation. I drilled small alignment holes in the spine mounts and such, don't want to start putting all that back on until she's painted.
Speaking of... Should the spine hinges be painted body color or black? Should I isolated the steel spine from the aluminum deck lids somehow? I have literally zero galvanic corrosion so far and would like to keep it that way.
Thanks again,
MH
Mike,
I learned long ago that I can't comment about "what something should be" in terms of stock paint and where, as my car had been "touched" in so many ways (see many of my old posts!) that it's not safe to use it as a gospel!
I do remember paint in the rain channels of the spine piece, and if the hinges are welded in place on the spine, they then probably were painted from the top..... from the bottom........I'll defer to others that may have a more original car than mine!!
I don't recall seeing any insulation materials between the hinges and the hatch covers......and my car was very free of hatch corrosion "that I could see".... so am thinking that the hatch steel frames were essentially grounded to the chassis via the hinges. Any corrosion resistant treating would be between the aluminum skins and the hatchs' steel frameworks...??
Any chemical engineers out there looked under their skins? 
Cheers!
Steve
Galvanic corrosion occurs with direct contact between two different kinds of metals in the Galvanic Series, not necessarily whether there's an electric ground. I suggest separating the aluminum from all iron/steel with a non-conducting strip that's outside the galvanic series, especially if you live in a damp climate (like So-Cal this year!).
@bosswrench posted:Galvanic corrosion occurs with direct contact between two different kinds of metals in the Galvanic Series, not necessarily whether there's an electric ground. I suggest separating the aluminum from all iron/steel with a non-conducting strip that's outside the galvanic series, especially if you live in a damp climate (like So-Cal this year!).
@bosswrench Do you think a layer of paint is sufficient?
MH
Yes, but... lots of stuff that depends on paint as a protectant tends to dry, harden and chip over time. Cars vibrate their parts in amazing ways. If you do, just grab the support bracket(s) and pull on them now 'n then to check for looseness.
.....grab them gently!!!! They're supposed to be welded........ Makes ya wonder how the XKE race alloy race car bodies were attached....or the alloy Cobra or GT40 skins were attached or insulated from...the steel chassis!!??? I'll ask another Goose owner out here that just finished his, ok...made it show worthy...enough to drive....and had to go thru the same shite!!!
Steve
Mike, yeah. pretty much once the car is assembled, the only thing you can do to avoid the electrical action is to keep it dry...and paint is at least a way to keep the metal electrically isolated. At build, putting tape over the steel is the best way, but luckily you don't have that option .
When attached directly, DeT used copper rivets--for example the engine covers, where the support strap is attached to the aluminum trays...or on the hood at the front edge. I've got no idea how this helps, unless it drives for just the opposite of isolation (by quenching the voltage to zero maybe?)
Cosmetically, all the inside of the rear (that the driver could see thru the back) is blackened. For paint lines, the combination of 8ma1074 and that gold car show I think how the factory blackened, https://pantera.infopop.cc/top...for-sale-in-michigan , esp black over the latches, over the "roll bar" at B pillar (everything to the inside of the roof edge and up to the chrome/vinyl edging) and then covered with the gasket), but the outside-facing channel of the spline is body color.
8ma1074 was downright peculiar with the blackening line for the hood/engine covers, esp in the way the black was carried over onto the aluminum (where anybody in their right mind would have taped at the edge of the aluminum). That and the blackening on the forward interior edge of the door...so freaky that only a factory would have done it (!) And I'd love to see confirmation in another car, so hoping that Steve's pictures of 8ma716 (before it was re-painted) agree.
8ma1046 was original paint, but since all black not so easy to distinguish the flatter blackening...
Attachments
Images (3)
Mike,
Lee's got the idea pretty good....seal....seal....
I spoke with another owner nearby, who just went thru repairing his hatches, of rust or corrosion along the bottom edges. When asked about the contact between aluminum and steel at the edges, he said that they found some sort of "creosote" dipped/saturated material that was between the two metals....of course by now, this material had turned to dust. He mentioned using sealer.....but couldn't provide any further details, other than "I'm never going to wash the car....."!
As far as insulating the hinges, there is no need for this. At the hinges, you're at steel, welded to steel (at the spine piece) then bolted to steel (at the hatch frame), using steel bolts thru all the bits. So even if you insulated the spine hinge flap from the hatch frame, the thru bolts negate all of this!
The culprit or problem area is where the aluminum skin sits against the frame, or where it is folded over to retain to the frame. These are the areas to be concerned with. Keeping air (contains moisture) off of these areas would seem the goal!
I would think that the GT40 and Cobra guys would be concerned with this sort of thing also, and may be a resource to tap. I will throw a note across the pond and check with a Goose owner who owns a body shop dealing with rebuilding Jags and such other high end cars from the 50's-70's. See how they deal with it!
Steve
Ok, new question... I need to disconnect the shifter rod near the heim joint to route the rear piece inside the frame going to the ZF... Can I drive this roll pin out and pull it apart?
or do I have to take apart the little U-joint?
MH
Attachments
Images (1)
Mike,
How the hay did you get this shaft out of position????
I revisited my pictures, and it looks like I never really took mine out......but I recall doing a dissection of the shifter box.... so I could be lying.....!!! BUt in these two pictures you can see where my shift rods ran, around the shock tower and then back into the inside of the frame to the trans.
That roll pin could be a REAL bugger to tap out and back in without supporting it. Taking the u-joint apart makes me feel more troubled......... I think we determined that the only place to get the u-joints is from some little Italian shop in the middle of nowhere...... I don't recall where....but seems like they are rare AND expensive! So grease it and leave it if at all possible?!
Start with removing the rear piece of the shaft that is adjustable, then remove the trunion retaining nut and lift it up....see if that gives you enuf? If not, then attack the shifter box??
I'm thinking remove the shifter box and strip the shaft out of it....then move the entire shaft forward until you gain enuf clearance to tuck the rear rod back into the frame. then tuck the shaft back in where it should be and reverse!
OK, I found my lie! First two pic's below are before sealer/no-rust paint, where I tied up and wrapped up the errant rear section of shift shaft, but the third pic shows that I succumbed to the need to get the danged thing out of my way, so I MUSTA popped that roll pin out....... Hate when pictures tell me that my mind is developing holes......! You can see just aft of the rubber firewall boot that I had taped off the end of the shaft.
The shifter box is really a "not much to it thing"! We've already determined that it doesn't have as much BS in it as the Pantera shifters. No detentes/balls, no extra springs...
Once the box is out of the way this would have some room to move forwards, but not certain of how much! Certainly it could go rearward and out.....reposition rear shaft etc, reinsert....reverse! NO HAMMERS required!!!
You needed to grease that little ball down at the bottom of the shift lever....right???
Steve
Attachments
Images (5)
Yeah, I already mastered the shifter tear down... If I can't get the pin out that will be plan "B"... Now that the engine & suspension are back in I don't have as much room to experiment...
Good to know it will come apart at the pin...
MH
I hate when that happens......! S
Pulled the shifter, no love... Pin wouldn't budge then I turned the rod over and tried from the other side... Popped right out !!! She's all back together now with the rod going where it's supposed to go... Adjusting it properly is now on my list...
MH
Mike,
COOL!!! Those pesky one way pins.....whoodakno!!!
OK, be sure not to do what I did with the center heim/trunion joint! When you put he shifter in 2cnd or 4th check the clearance at the firewall thru-hole to make sure that you are not "too close" to the tube that passes thru the firewall..... Mine was fine....., then I "optimized my center trunion height by eyeball.....wrongo! I guess I lowered the shaft a bit.....
With the rubber boot installed, I ran into "too much stuff in the hole" and that being so, would interfere with trying to get fully into 4th or 2cnd gear!!! The fix was to simply "raise" the center trunion until everyone was happy again!!! (With no boot.....it was fine......!!!) 2 & 4 felt a bit spongy at the end of the shift...arm didn't go all the way forward in the gate.....shoulda been the first couple of clues that things were amiss!
Shifter adjustment is easy. Center it R-L and snug the nuts a tad, then center it Fore-Aft in the middle of the shifter gate, adjusting length as needed, rinse....repeat.... until it is centered at rest, L-R & F-A. Then you should be golden!!!!
In my case, I pulled my ZF out to look for issues and magically found NONE related to my shifting! I did find a crazy problem with my input shaft bearing being out of place however, and I replaced 1st and 2cnd gear blocking rings whilst I was in there! So all was good! Put it back in and didn't fix a thing! That's when I just sat and stared at it for a LONG time.....until I traced the shifter shaft back to the firewall.....pulled that boot back and it worked fine!!!! DOH! Adjusted the trunion joint higher......and went for a drive without worrying about 2cnd or 4th popping out of gear any more!!!!!
Cheers!
Steve
Wow... Sounds like something would happen to me... Finding something simple after methodically eliminating everything more complex first.. I will check tube clearance just in case your gremlin moved to Texas... Thanks for the heads up...
MH
Fired her up for the first time today, carb leaking in several places of course... Still running rough, but running... Had to set the timing by ear... Is there any other way? No way to see the timing marks...
MH
Mike,
If you have the stock timing pointer and marks, you actually can see them BUTT, ya hafta put the timing light near vertical, and mash your head up against the firewall window and look directly down.......
It can be done!!!
Those new blue reusable gaskets for Holleys work very well!
COOOOOL!!!!!!! Getting closer!!!
S