Darn it!



In regards to the email you sent stating:
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Dear Customer Care,

Please assist with finding a tire that matches my specification:

225/50-15 and 285/50-15 Michelin TB5

These are for a DeTomaso Pantera, '73 with the 10" wide rims in the back (Campagnalo Magnesium Rims)

Thanks,

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We appreciate your request for Michelin tires. Unfortunately, we do not manufacture either size tires for your vehicle. Your request will be forwarded to the appropriate Marketing Group for future consideration.

We appreciate your business and thank you for choosing Michelin.

It is our goal to ensure that your issue has been resolved or your question answered to your satisfaction. If we can assist you further, please respond to this email or call us at 1-866-866-6605 (toll free) between 8:00AM and 8:00PM Eastern Time Monday through Friday or between 8:30AM and 4:30PM Eastern Time on Saturday.

Sincerely,
We had a car we restored in Scottsdale that had perfect looking Avon tires on 10 inch rims, look up 5298 in the registry to see how they look in the photos, they are,,,
Rear: 10 x 15 GTS wheels mounted to AVON CR6-zz 295/50R/15 (DOT approved tire) acquired from Roger Krause Racing in California, where I get all my Pantera tires.
You may not have heard about the terrible tragedy that "befell" me, when my fluorescent light fixture fell off my garage ceiling and whacked my car!

Some dumb-a$$ (me) only put the screws into the drywall - not the rafters. You can bet they are now anchored with 4" deck screws!

DAMMIT!

I guess I can say I was lucky because:

1) It did not fall right onto the center of my hood

and

2) Neither of the fluorescent bulbs broke!

Nevertheless....

OUCH!

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Luckily, I know a great guy who has a body shop (and a Pantera) who could handle the job....

Rick P. - Duval Body and Paint - Green Valley, AZ

Anyway - those boys went after my car....

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I just got some crappy cel phone pix, but it looks great....

More pictures to follow...

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To Rick, Ricky and the boys at DB&P - THANKS!
Not too much new to report - I did replace my 100K mile Front Shock / Spring (a set of "Telecars") with a pair of "new to me" low mileage stock Aristons.

This allowed me to take a series of basic suspension measurements, and inspect the effort for my upcoming project - new shocks / springs (all four corners) and new wheels / tires (first priority).

I have a set of all the required suspension parts (rubber bushings, upper & lower ball joints and tie rod ends). Likely when I do this mod I will disassemble the suspension and get it all powdercoated (like the back).

Here's just a single picture.

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quote:
This thread needed better pictures, after all the hard work on the car...


Such a great looking car.

Your car looks like a car I came very close to buying on ebay i 2009. I backed out of it though since I was an overseas buyer and could inspect it properly.
Thank You, Push, for the compliment. I agree with you (amazingly enough).

Working on a set of 8" Campi rims to replace the 7" ones in the front.

Toasting in the oven is complete. Stripment of the old paint is complete. Primer is complete. Hope to paint this weekend.

Also working on the rear view mirrors, they will soon match body color.

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Photos (1)
The Next Project - Front Suspension Upgrade

We are working on the next project - an upgrade of my front suspension components. The goal is to replace the old parts, and add a couple additional performance and reliability features along the way.

Main Items:

  • New Ball Joints and TREs
  • New Wheel Bearings and Seals
  • Adjustment of Brake Hose Routing
  • General Cleanup

    Performance / Reliability Features:

  • Upper Ball Joints Milled for 2* More Caster
  • W-Wadeco Camber Lock System
  • Powder Cost Suspension Parts
  • Zerks on All Ball Joints & TREs
  • Painting of all Exposed Steel

    Here's a picture to get you interested.




    Here is a slide show of the work to date. I will add more as the reassembly progresses.

    Suspension Upgrade - Slide Show

    Rocky
  • Well - to give you the honest truth, Wade (MarkIV/4280) handled that part*, but what he did was get a short height Sawz-All Blade, and cut the metal bushing housing top and bottom.

    Careful cutting (not all the way through) relieved the pressure, and the bushings were then pressed out. The cut was longitudinal along the bushing housing.

    I'll throw in a picture of one of the cut housings.

    I believe that I left out a lot of the swearing, re-fixturing, pounding, and hammering that was still required. I saw the rubber pieces, and they did not look like they came out willingly.

    Maybe Wade will post up a description of his technique.

    Rocky

    * as he handles 75-85% of my projects... Nevertheless - I am moving up in my skills qualification. I am now approved to sandblast on my own, and to do minor filing and scraping work. Oh, yes... Painting. I am authorized to do painting (rattle can only) without supervision.

    Yeah Baby!

    PS> (Seriously....) Thanks, Wade for your help on my project!!
    I wanted to show off my cool W-WadeCo Camber Lock System.

    Other systems had been evaluated, and are very nicely made, but the main drawback is they require drilling into the Upper A-Arm to mount the "Stop Plate". This could potentially weaken it.

    The engineering dept. at W-WadeCo came up with a simple design that uses a welded retaining ring on the upper A-Arm. The special Camber adjustment shim can then be used to lock the camber, as well as perform fine adjustment with the threaded shaft & nuts. As shown in the picture, the system is not tightened, that's why the washer is at an angle.

    Lock Brackets



    Adjustment Stop (Welded to A-Arm)




    Camber Lock Assembly





    Bushing

    Finally, JFB had a question on getting the bushings out. Here's how Wade did it..... You gotta be careful, though!



    Rocky

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    jerrysr
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