That little box does not interfere with my feet or getting in or out
Attachments
Images (3)
That's the EZ Electric Power Steering kit, made specifically for the Pantera. Other electric power steering systems may be more obtrusive.
@davidnunn posted:That's the EZ Electric Power Steering kit, made specifically for the Pantera. Other electric power steering systems may be more obtrusive.
That is correct… the angle of the motor is about 11 o’clock while others may get to 10 o’clock
when you Open the door and look in the car you cannot tell it’s even there… Do you really have to go on the floor to see..
It’s a fabulous system ☑️
it cost a few hundred more but so worth it I think…
@davidnunn…. Your upgrade may become production… It shall be known as the Nunn-tube (for people who didn’t follow this thread from the beginning - No, it’s not a medical device…)
I got this email back from EZ- power steering… I sent them the link to this thread:
Attachments
Images (1)
Roland,
I believe mine was the second of the three prototype systems. I sent them my column, so they could make sure what they produced was correct. In fact, it's my column that's on their web site, with their EPAS installed . You can tell because it has a custom ignition / turn signal cover. Immediately after my installation, I sent them photos and comments about how much easier "the tube" made the installation. At the time, the system was new and they were selling quite a few, so they weren't entirely receptive. It seems they're more receptive now!
I plan to attempt this upgrade at some point. Nice to know they are making improvements based on everyone's feedback.
@davidnunn posted:Roland,
I believe mine was the second of the three prototype systems. I sent them my column, so they could make sure what they produced was correct. In fact, it's my column that's on their web site, with their EPAS installed . You can tell because it has a custom ignition / turn signal cover. Immediately after my installation, I sent them photos and comments about how much easier "the tube" made the installation. At the time, the system was new and they were selling quite a few, so they weren't entirely receptive. It seems they're more receptive now!
What is the "tube modification"?
I bought this for €27 including postage, even if it doesn't fit I won't lose much:
@panteradoug posted:What is the "tube modification “
instead of mounting with two bolts left and right, one tube is welded in between the two ears and one long bold is inserted to attach the rear mount of the power steering assembly to the dash structure. I didn’t see any possible way to get into that area to get nuts onto the 2 bolts once the system is in place.
you can find what the details on page 2 of this thread we are originate.
Attachments
Images (1)
@rene4406 posted:I bought this for €27 including postage, even if it doesn't fit I won't lose much:
I would think you do need more then just the motor / gearbox… the brain/relays ??
Yes, I know you also need the ECU and the control module. The ECU can be found on Ebay for about $75
https://www.ebay.fr/itm/375891...D518089856d144e40b1a e3e593fbd6128%26pid%3D101465%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D375891166614%26itm%3D3 75891166614%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D3814323&_trksid=p3814323.c101465.m3507
And the control module with speed-related regulation at Servtronic for also $75
https://www.servtronic.com/col...g-controller-box-kit
That's a total of +/- $175 ........plus possibly a Capri steering column at $100 if you want to keep the original one intact and especially "a few" hours of work
@LeMans850i posted:
instead of mounting with two bolts left and right, one tube is welded in between the two ears and one long bold is inserted to attach the rear mount of the power steering assembly to the dash structure. I didn’t see any possible way to get into that area to get nuts onto the 2 bolts once the system is in place.you can find what the details on page 2 of this thread we are originate.
The Yaris assembly does not need this type of modification to mount. The logical thing that is happening here is that I used the Yaris and EZ used another source.
There are several possibilities.
I went through a few trial fits with others. I liked the Yaris fit the best and also like the dependability of Toyota components.
Hearing/reading, that Bruno was the designer of the EPS for Toyota and knowing he is THE source for the "control box" is just a plus.
Here is what I did with the Yaris. You can see how compact it is and how well it orients itself to the void in the Pantera internal dash.
Installed the motor is just about in that desireable range of 10 to 11 o'clock.
There isn't anything to my knowledge that fits better. The other motors are all larger and hang lower.
Attachments
Images (3)
@panteradoug posted:What is in the Pantera is what the Brits are calling Mark II's.
Don't worry about buying too many Capri steering columns. You probably will be able to sell the extras for more then you paid.
Are you sure it's the Mk II because according to Wikipedia the Type II appeared in February 1974? But that may not matter since it needs to be modified anyway.
@rene4406 posted:Are you sure it's the Mk II because according to Wikipedia the Type II appeared in February 1974? But that may not matter since it needs to be modified anyway.
No I am not. I am saying that the people in the UK were referring to the shaft as a Mark II. They are basing that on the UK Capri, not on the US Capri so yes there is some confusion there.
I did that research about three or four years ago and never did get a second shaft for a spare. The first one got cannibalized for my first attempt using a GM EPS.That one fit lengthwise but hung down too far and interfered with the pedals.
It was a necessary exercise to learn the critical dimensional limits that the motor must be limited too. I sold it to a local street rodder for more then I paid for it and it is in a '32 Ford street rod and he is happy with it so nothing ventured, nothing gained,
I did learn quite a bit from it. I don't remember how exactly I discovered the Yaris but it was a coincidental thing. Someone else had one and I saw the size of it and how compact it is.
When the Yaris got here from the UK, I just went ahead and modified my Pantera's column.
When I finally got a hold of the Yaras assembly and realize how well it fit dimensionally I just went ahead with my project.
My decision was that if I had to return to stock I would highly likely be able to find eventually the right Capri column.
I believe that is Larry here that suggested it is a Capri I column as well.
IF WE were being extremely careful, it logically would be prudent to obtain a Capri I and a Capri II and then compare those to the Pantera column. They still sell and are sought after for various reasons and you can always sell the one you don't use?
You need to realize that the Pantera column is a modified Capri column and the difference between a Capri I and a Capri II may not make any difference to a Pantera? It may just be in the mounting bracketry of how the directional signal, ignition switch and column support bracket to the dash is formed and mounted to the tube itself? It is not a major difference.
The difference could also be in the length of the columns?
If you are seriously considering building your own, get the Yaris column first.
Then look at my finished Pantera pictures and compare the before and after. Look at everything that got trashed from the Yaris. Very little of the Yaris bracketry remains and almost none of the drive shaft since it gets spliced into the Panteras steering wheel splined hub shaft and adapted to the Pantera's D shaft on the other side of the motor.
No rewiring is necessary. Just installing new quick connect wire ends to the existing harness and running the big power wires directly to the battery.
It is right to be as comprehensive as you can be at this point but you need the Yaris in your hands and the Pantera column on the bench to see how to homologate the two together.
It is fun. It is a little bit worrisome at first because of the unknowns. If I can do it, you can too. This is not NASA here.
Strange. I was just re-examining my own pictures of the steering shaft. When I total up the components on it, it does wind up as a bit expensive from tip to tip? Strange in that it does look innocent enough just sitting there on the bench too but quite a few engineered components involved.
My first reaction was that I was pissed to the finished column. The reason being that I had engineered an adjustable height mechanism from a Honda Civic in to it but the adjustable drop bracket was too flimsy to use with the EPS so I had to give it up.
@panteradoug I just want to ask about the dropping the steering column feature you abandoned because it was too flimsy… Under what circumstances do you think you want to lower the steering wheel in the Pantera…
does the Yaris EPS gives you a lot more room with the steering wheel… Does it mount higher?
@LeMans850i posted:@panteradoug I just want to ask about the dropping the steering column feature you abandoned because it was too flimsy… Under what circumstances do you think you want to lower the steering wheel in the Pantera…
does the Yaris EPS gives you a lot more room with the steering wheel… Does it mount higher?
The Civic mechanism is fine without the Eps but the EPS is torquing the column, i.e., twisting it. I didn't want to risk that on the Civic mounting bracket.
The height adjuster bracket is just stamped steel but the main issue is it needed to occupy the same space as the EPS bracket. It was just a height adjustment device for the steering wheel for better driver position.
The Yaris unit is smaller then most, maybe the smallest and gives more toe room. It is so tight down there that anything helps BUT all Panteras look like they don't have enough foot room to begin with. That is not true as delivered new but looks like it is too tight.
It isn't so much that the EPS hangs down but needs room up in the dash to fit the motor in. You have things like the defroster duct to deal with. I have the single pod dash and internally, under the dash is different then the dual pod.
You just will not find a more compact unit then used in the Yaris and it orients to the Pantera exceptionally well if not perfectly. I'm just sharing what I discovered and am not attempting to disparage anyone else's different solution. They are ALL excellent solutions.
I am capable of engineering or more correctly reverse engineering this stuff while others are not. So they need to go to predetermined existing solutions.
I am more adventurous by nature.
This is how the RHD Yaris column will come to you. Most of it gets trashed.
It was about $100 in the door including shipping from the UK and there were more available at the time so the need to do surgery on it was not a major concern.
Attachments
Images (2)
Here is what I received:
It is not exactly the same as yours but since it is to adapt I hope it will work.
A confirmation please, the short shaft goes on the rack side and the long one on the steering wheel side?
Attachments
Images (2)
@rene4406 posted:Here is what I received:
It is not exactly the same as yours but since it is to adapt I hope it will work.
A confirmation please, the short shaft goes on the rack side and the long one on the steering wheel side?
Yes. You have that correct. The motor on yours is taller then mine.
The first thing that you need to do after you remove your existing steering column is to hold that one up under the dash to confirm that the motor will clear everything inside of the dash.
I am pretty sure that mine was listed as from a 2003 Yaris. Mine showed immediately that it was a very good fit.
You are going to reuse the Pantera D shaft, universal joint and connecting yoke.
The output shaft on the Yaris needs to be shortened. I ground a flat spot into that shaft so the yoke could orient itself securely. There won't be any splines left on the shafts. They are in the wrong place so don't worry that you realize they must be cut off. That is correct.
The top of the motor input shaft is the tightest fit. You want to leave as much of the Pantera splined shaft (steering wheel side) in place so that it does not affect the ignition switch assembly and interlock to it.
The mounting bracket for the motor you need to make. That isn't complicated and you mount that to the motor where the Yaris bracket attaches to.
There is a control box from the Yaris that you do need also. I think that I had to buy that separately? The Brits have a habit of completely disassembling everything from the system rather then selling it all as a package.
I think that is because in this case there is substantial demand just for the control box? I don't know enough about the Yaris to understand why but in a way it is a benefit that you can get another control box separately if need be?
It is not a difficult column to build and the challenges you will soon discover are really rather minor.
In my case, I had already moved the steering wheel as close as possible to the dash to gain more leg room so in retrospect on my conversion that was the cause of the close fit of the input shafts.
There you are going to need to make a judgement on where to cut the shafts.
IF by chance that you find you are too close to the dash, you can just relocate the mounting bracket to the dash and move the steering wheel out.
The D shaft that goes into the rack is plenty long enough to still engauge with the tube in that case. Check that but I think there is about 2" that you have to play with as I recall.
If you look at the pictures on how I received mine and what the finished shaft came to be, you will see that the motor and that little control box is basically all that will remain when done.
Don't cut any of the harness off of it. Those plugs just plug into the other control box and I have seen those sold separately as well so apparently people hack those off without knowing what they are doing?
The Yaris is a strange little car and probably the original buyers of them are even stranger?
The box you need is that 3" x 3" black box you see in Lemann's picture above. You can get it separately. That indicates to me a Toyota source.
The end of the engine is 200mm (8'') from the center of the column.
I'm not going to do this project immediately, before I have to finish reinstalling the engine in the car after repairing the lifter breakage and as I took the opportunity to replace the air conditioning compressor with a Sanden, I'm spending time with the adjustments of the support, there is very little space.
Afterwards I will have to take the car back to my body shop so that he can redo the paint that he missed the first time, so I won't take care of the EPS before spring or early summer but I'm gathering the elements when I find cheap ones on Ebay.
I found a Capri steering column in France at less than 30€ including postage, I still have to buy an ECU.
Attachments
Images (1)
I didn't keep a record of that dimension. I will be back under the dash soon and will try to get a number for mine but it appears that your motor is taller or maybe that is just the cover for the motor.
I don't recall an issue of it touching or coming close to touching the inside of the dash. In my single pod dash, there is a defroster grill that is supplied by a duct hose that is close to the top of the motor.
I suggested the Yaris also because as installed it orients itself in the 10 to 11 o'clock position which is pretty much ideal. There is some degree of minute adjustment to that possible by realigning your mounting bracket design.
I found and bought the correct ECU for £37 including postage and customs fees.
So I got the engine, ECU and steering column for about $100 .
I will just have to buy the control module from Paulo ANTUNES.
@rene4406 posted:I found and bought the correct ECU for £37 including postage and customs fees.
So I got the engine, ECU and steering column for about $100 .
I will just have to buy the control module from Paulo ANTUNES.
Either the manual control with the adjustable control knob or the automatic that contacts a GPS satilite are fine. I like the automatic version. There you do not need to find a location on an already cluttered interior dash panel.
I think that it gives the right feel to the steering and keeps the EPS from over-boosting the assist at high speed. It certainly is worth the cost to me.
I plan to buy the version with GPS to automatically keep a "hard" direction at high speeds.
Yes. It works well. I'm sure that there will be those that do not care for it and want power assist at 120mph?
Here in the US we can't legally see those kind of speeds. 85mph is even stretching it. We even get traffic at those speeds.
The automatic GPS control version ramps down the assist and I think by 50mph you have zero assist.
In our country too the speed limit is 80 MPH on the motorway but there are not police everywhere and it is well known that the French are very undisciplined, well the old French because the young almost all drive very slowly, often even below 80 MPH.
I opened a new topic so as not to pollute this one of LeMans850i about the adaptation of the YARIS power steering system:
None of your photos are displaying in this thread ???
Larry
For me, they are displayed
I can't see the pictures either?
I put them back in the other thread.