Building a Gr4 replica

Gaps align nicely.

Tomorrow moving on to the other side !!

Did you clear coat the door to prevent/inhibit rust?

The door appears to be stainless steel!...Mark

MAn, that is impressive!. You motivate me to want to tackle that!

Super work.

I usually don't want to comment on a thread if I can't add value, but your work really looks first class.

I love to see the craftsmanship in metal that we (often) see on this board.

Rocky

Push...as per usual....all I can say is "nicely done"!

Finally got the other door finished

With the skin on

Closing the marker light openings

Now that both doors fit, I could finish welding the outer B-post skins

Also closed the recessed openings for the front bumpers. The gr4 cars had this mod performed and the bumpers replaced with front position lights from a Lancia Fulvia.

The NOS front fender I put on the car was the early type with the narrow bucket opening. So had to widen it to make the wider, late model bucket fit

A 10 mm wider and 10 mm longer opening is required

Front fenders are done

Things are a little slow on the forum, so here are a few progress pictures of my gr4 project.

I decided to add a upper rigidity-bar and hope that it will comply with FIA rules. I've already added some smaller stiffening plates in the rear part of the chassis (see earlier in the thread), but this bar, in my view, is the most important bolt-on addition you can add to the chassis, basically preventing the shock towers from flexing under load and hard braking. In combination with the roll cage this should stiffen the rear up considerebly.

This is a piece from Hall.

The inner wheel housings actually have a curvature, which means a little reworking of the attachments plates are required before welding

Also added a few reinforcement plates to the rear mounts

At the front end of the chassis, I added these stiffening plates to the inside of the subframe.

Here are all fours cormers shown

quote:

Originally posted by Push1267:
Also added a few reinforcement plates to the rear mounts

Assembling my suspension parts again, I found out many of the mounts had different widths. Even worse, there was quite a variation in width of the new bushings I bought....duh. Had to have the grinder running overtime The day I start working on my chassis in a way like you are currently doing, I'll take the time to get these things sorted out properly - read, the non-Italian way

as always Push.... lookin great!

quote:

as always Push.... lookin great!

Thanks for the heads up. Things are going very slow at the moment.

I did the flare mock-up some time ago. Here are the fitting of the rear flares with the suspension and wheels on.

There's beén some discussion over the quality of the fiber (and steel) flares. These are from Byars, and are very nice. They fit right on with almost no modification.

After studying old Pictures of factory group 4 cars, and drilling the correct numbers of holes for rivits - next is the scary part that hurts deep down!!!!

This is the mark-up for cutting of the fenders - keep that grinder steady!!!

After cutting !! There's no going back now.

High there, dont know if this is relevent, but on my car , a Gt 5 clone there are I think double the amount of holes, greets

Urbain

Urbain. I know that different amount of rivits are used on different cars.

I'm simply adhering to what the factory did on the Gr4 cars, which was 15 rivits in the rear and 13 in the front (i.e.; above the line on the side of the car) with a spacing of 92 mm.

Congratulations! There are a number of flared-fender clones running around the world in which the original fenders are still inside, making the whole flare system of dubious worth. FWIW, I had the same awful feeling when I cut our '72's front trunk for a dropped battery....

Are you going to roll the cut edge to form a bit of a lip to stiffen things up?

Larry, that was my plan to begin with, but after cutting of the lips the fender hasn't lost much stiffness.

With the flares in place with the Clecos only, the fender is still stiffer than it was before cutting (the fiber flare are very stiff in it self), so I think I'll leave it alone.

I looked at the factory cars, and they were the same - no rolling of the edges.

The flares was fitted with the Wheels on to make sure the Wheel was centered in the lip.

For some reason, the rear wheels are centered a Little towards ¨the rear from the factory. To correct this the Gr4 flare was squized i little and moved rearward (about an inch) where it meets the rocker panel.

Where the flare joins the lower rear panel, I kept it flush with the panel edge

Here's what the spacing looks like on the drivers side

At this point without adjustable a-arms and spacers, the 14" wheels stays juuuust inside the flare.

Pretty bad-ass I think. Tires are 14.0/27.0-15

In the same manner I took a big chunk out of the front fenders - here it was a brand new (NOS) fender!! Yeeearhh. I'm crying

I little trimming is needed but otherwice the flares are done.

Also made progress on the Cage. Almost fully installed. It's from Sassa in Italy and fully FIA certified. It fits right in, but requires fabrication of attachment plates (such that it can be bolted in) and cutting and welding of the rear bars and the side bars.

Here it is installed.

Rear part of cage

Inside

In typical fasion I tried getting as close to what the factory did to the original Gr4 cars - including how they did the attachment plates on the inner rockers. These are copies of the plates found in Les Grays factory Gr4 (thanks Ed Mendez for posting pictures of Les' car on facebook)

Sorry for the lousy quality - will take a better Picture NeXT time I'm in the workshop