Hi All.

I would like to start a thread about swapping to a new generation Ford 5.0

There seems to be a lot of discussion about it on this web site but not a lot of technical info shared. Soooo I would like to start openly sharing what I have found and ask others if they could also share their info.

I AM POSTING INFORMATION AS I DISCOVER IT. PLEASE TAKE IT WITH A GRAIN OF SALT. I HAVE NOT FINISHED THE INSTALL YET AND SOME INFO MAY NOT PLAY OUT AS I GET DEEPER INTO THE SWAP.

ENJOY! Thumbs Up!



Thanks To All.
Evan

Last edited by George P
Original Post
Bought a bare block to start a mock up.

The new block is a full 3 in. shorter than the 351C block. The dimensions on the PDF file shows that the engine length to the end of the crank pulley is also a full 3 in shorter.
This is ignoring the A/C I have no idea how the A/C fits into a mustang.

The new block shares the pattern of some bell-housing bolts.
Here I have it bolted up just for kicks.
quote:
Originally posted by agustaboy:
Bought a bare block to start a mock up.

The new block is a full 3 in. shorter than the 351C block. The dimensions on the PDF file shows that the engine length to the end of the crank pulley is also a full 3 in shorter.
This is ignoring the A/C I have no idea how the A/C fits into a mustang.

The new block shares the pattern of some bell-housing bolts.
Here I have it bolted up just for kicks.

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well looks like the bell housing is on back order. Lakewood is awful about this. They will push it back again and again for months on end.

Does any one here have one to loan out? I've got time and money to get this done but the bell housing will grind me to a halt.
It's been leaked that the next generation of 5.0L V8 (in the Shelby GT350), called the "Voodoo engine", will put out 550 Hp, have a redline of 8,000 rpm and have a flat plane crankshaft like Ferrari uses.
Bell Housing.

talked to Steve @ Panteras By Wilkinson

He sells Bell housings. Stock Modified Aluminum bell housings.

So moving forward again.
UPDATE. ALTHOUGH USING A STOCK BELLHOUSING (WITH MODIFICATION) IS AN OPTION I'VE DECIDED TO GO BACK TO MY INITIAL PLAN TO USE THE QUICK TIME / LAKEWOOD HOUSING. MOUNTING OF THE STARTER IS MUCH LESS TROUBLE THAT WAY.
Last edited by agustaboy
Sorry Evan. I must have got the last adapter bellhousing. Be aware that fully dressed the coyote is longer where the least clearance is available which is the phaser section of the heads. The rear of the heads is also flush with the bellhousing mounting face. This creates heavy interference both the inner fenders and the upper firewall. That being said, if you trim the inner fenders enough to mate the engine to the trans with it in the stock location there is tons of room between the balancer and the firewall. It would be tough to trim the inner fenders that far as you would be cutting directly into the control arm support brace. I would rather shift the whole works forward and just modify the firewall and axle openings.
Blaine Great info.

How far forward (Aprox) do you think you will go to create a comfortable clearance from the inner fender? 1, 2, 3 inches?

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quote:
Originally posted by PanteraTurbo:
if you trim the inner fenders enough to mate the engine to the trans with it in the stock location there is tons of room between the balancer and the firewall. It would be tough to trim the inner fenders that far as you would be cutting directly into the control arm support brace. I would rather shift the whole works forward and just modify the firewall and axle openings.

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A previous owner pounded down the inner fender flange on my car. Looks like there's about 3/8s to 1/2 to be had if you want to do some old fashioned metal working.

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I figure around 2 inches forward would provide adequate clearance to the inner fenders. I am hoping to set the engine into the bay on Monday to get an idea what kind of space I we are working with.
I better write to them so my car can be their next project!!

Interesting header setup they had with the extensions prior to the header....
I got an email from Wilkinson saying:"Just a heads up notice that PBW will not be taking or filling any orders from Sept 22 - Oct 17th 2014. If you are in need of something, please order prior to these dates."

Also, If he has "done a few" he may be selling the parts to do it your self. That's how I did the 4.6L in Zonkey.
I do not remember Steve Wilkinson ever telling me that he had done a coyote swap. I believe I read on the POCA forum recently that Pantera Performance in Colorado was doing them. Doesn't hurt to ask Steve though. I am sure he could do the work. He has done a few modular motor swaps with a couple 5.4 swaps currently in progress at his shop. Those required "some" engine bay modifications for fitment. Smiler
Yes, Steve is over in Italy for the next three weeks getting a bunch of cool original parts for all kinds of DeTomasos. I thought he told me he has already sent two 40 foot containers state side from his last italian adventure earlier this summer, and now I'm sure he's on the hunt for anything else that he can sell that is NOS DeTomaso. Anyone requiring something cool should give him a ring, when he comes back to the States.

Mark
Picked up a 20,000 Mile coyote engine from a Mustang.

Everything Fly wheel forward all wiring ECU gas peddle, pulleys Ac condenser $4K .....

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Last edited by George P
Agustaboy, if you can, weigh the assembly as it sits. I have weights for the modulars but not the Coyote. I expect around 525 lbs without a flywheel.
quote:
Originally posted by Bosswrench:
Agustaboy, if you can, weigh the assembly as it sits. I have weights for the modulars but not the Coyote. I expect around 525 lbs without a flywheel.



I will as soon as I get a bit more organized.

I plan on putting a Boss 302 intake on it and flipping it 180 Degrees. I can use the stock throttle body and save a few $$
Agustaboy - careful with that intake and packaging. I did some dimensional checks when I was considering this engine package.

I looked at a tall boss intake, but is was a rapid prototype as it was not released yet and it was packaged in the back of a different car at the time. I took some dimensions as best I could to transfer them to the Pantera.

I came up with the throttle body being about 7 inches behind the decklid. However, I don't think my measurement were 100% accurate. You guys also talked about moving the block forward a couple of inches too so that would help.

Take some measurements before buying that intake.
I have set the engine into the car in the position I would like to keep it in. This is a pic of the bellhousing area.

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quote:
Originally posted by PanteraTurbo:
Here is one showing the trans mounts to give you an idea how much farther forward this is.


So Blaine
How much?
You think 2in or more?
Well My initial test fit suggests there is a chance that setting the engine/Transaxle in it's
neutral position ( 0in offset ) is a possibility. I used a bubble level on the motor to set it plumb. Used the intake flange on the heads as my reference point and then checked that against the bottom of the block where the oil pan would bolt up.

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Even with the engine/transaxle in it's neutral position there will be a need for some firewall modification.

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Pass. Side
So this all assumes that the engine should sit level....... Should it be sitting nose down and if so at what angle????

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