Photo Blog: Coyote Engine Swap (5.0 liter DOHC Ford V8, naturally aspirated, 412+ BHP).

Very interested project.
Any idear about Hav much lighter the Engine are than the cleveland?
Les kg more speed.



Kjeld

That's an interesting question. I think it weighs in about the same.
Put everything on the scale yesterday and it weighed in at 450 lbs.
But broader power band and an engine that is capable of 8,000+ RPM

625HP 8,500 RPM
http://www.bing.com/videos/sea...AE719C0957094276A76B

Getting close on the Motor Mounts. The CNC has been tied up and I'm chopping these out on a manual mill.

I've been following this thread. Its bad ass. Keep it up.

Reference photos.

Lots of clearance with the stock intake. 1-1/2 to 2 inches.

lid on

Early style engine cover would also have lots of clearance.

Inner fender modification.

Looking good Evan!!!

Agusta, in the photo above, did the weld break on the side of your bay-brace fitting, or is that just undercoating that cracked during your pocket rework?

Prepping the engine bay.
Making some Alum. Panels
These are going to be a fascia that just drops in place and uses the existing Duez fastening points that the Luggage tray uses.

another angle.

Looking good.


Kjeld

Update

And

polished

Nice job Evan!!!!!!

Thanks Scott. Got the cable shiftier. WOW looks great Leather covered too!!!!! Going to need some of your CV Shafts soon as well.

NOTE To Everyone. If you are going to do a Coyote swap, making modifications to the stock shifting mechanism is probably a must. I want to set my engine as low in the chassis as I can so I decided getting one of these cable shifers from Scott @ sacc restorations was the solution for me.

You must have an inside line. The cable conversion isn't on his website (yet??).

quote:

Originally posted by Husker:
You must have an inside line. The cable conversion isn't on his website (yet??).

Yet...... Just contact him and he'll set you up.

Inlay pannels are done.

Time to get serious about setting the motor in and getting it moving down the road.

Looking Nice

Kjeld

+1

Any updates?
.

Just got the car back to my shop.

I'll be test fitting an assembled Engine/Trans today.

Are you coming over the top with your exhaust?
.

quote:

Originally posted by 2112:
Are you coming over the top with your exhaust?
.

Ultimately Yes.
However, I think I've figured out a low dollar header option for starters.
My budget is getting stretched a bit thin.

I can totally understand. I am just happy to see you stay with Ford power.

I imagine this swap has been done before, Wondered if anyone offered an off the shelf header for the application vs. going custom.
.

Looks like that is the biggest Ford Powerplant you could have chosen to put in when considering external dimensions.

I say good job!

http://www.mustangsandmore.com...ngineDimensions.html

.

Just found another interference issue.

The flex Plate presses against a cast bracket for the Crank Trigger Sensor. I cut a "T" shaped slot for clearance.

Note: this is the flex plat that comes with the Quick Time Coyote 5.0 to ZF Bell housing.
I'm going to contact them.

Set in place. Did this alone so I'm a bit exhausted right now.

Using the bell-housing as the balance point.

Well done and I applaud your bravery. I am always very nervous when the engine is hanging over the back of the car. Heaven forbid if it were to drop. You know, weak link or failed 25 cent o-ring. And you have the confidence to park it there while you go take pictures for us. Wow!

quote:

Originally posted by agustaboy:
Set in place. Did this alone so I'm a bit exhausted right now.

Tiring isnt it. I havent taken mine out since it went in. I have had the trans in and out half a dozen times though. I have gotten that one down to a science.

It's only scary the first couple of times, in fact concerning is a better term. The drive train on the stock engine needs to get shoehorned in. The Coyote is tighter.

For some reason (that probably being I'm just stupid?) it's easier to pull the engine out then it is to put it back in...still.

When I originally put it in I had to drop it into the bay till the engine was sitting above the fender wells on a rolling cart. I then disconnected the hoist and rolled the engine forward into position. Then I lifted the car up on the vehicle hoist. I didnt have the bellhousing at the time.

quote:

Originally posted by PanteraTurbo:
When I originally put it in I had to drop it into the bay till the engine was sitting above the fender wells on a rolling cart. I then disconnected the hoist and rolled the engine forward into position. Then I lifted the car up on the vehicle hoist. I didnt have the bellhousing at the time.

Having a bare block and heads to work with has really made it easy to this point.
Trans bolted to bellhousing and block, no fly wheel, no clutch and no engine internals.

Ive had the motor/Trans in and out of the car about 6 times now. Solo! Putting the fully dressed motor in was a real work out. Phew!!!

quote:

Originally posted by agustaboy:

quote:

Originally posted by PanteraTurbo:
When I originally put it in I had to drop it into the bay till the engine was sitting above the fender wells on a rolling cart. I then disconnected the hoist and rolled the engine forward into position. Then I lifted the car up on the vehicle hoist. I didnt have the bellhousing at the time.

Having a bare block and heads to work with has really made it easy to this point.
Trans bolted to bellhousing and block, no fly wheel, no clutch and no engine internals.

Ive had the motor/Trans in and out of the car about 6 times now. Solo! Putting the fully dressed motor in was a real work out. Phew!!!

Now you are the expert. Now we will come to you for help. "Show me again how it goes is please?"

Yep, once the heads are on the game changes.

HEADERS

OK SO HERE I GO. GOING TO TRY THE CUT AND PAST METHOD.

2011+ STOCK MUSTANG HEADERS ARE EASY TO COME BY AND RELATIVELY CHEAP. I GOT THESE ON EBAY FOR $90.00

I THINK YOU CAN SEE THE DIRECTION I'M TRYING TO GO.

AGAIN HAVING A BARE BLOCK AND HEADS ARE SOOOOO THE WAY TO GO WHEN GARAGE ENGINEERING AND FITTING ARE NECESSARY.