the work looks great! It should be ready for some serious track laps in TX
question, when you tighten the bolts for the arm bushings, do you have the arms at ride height as not to add the torsional springiness of the rubber twisting?
That's what I did.
I set the car on my original shocks, and then I tightened the bushings.
Rocky.
Still a little work to do yet, but it's coming!
I set the car on my original shocks, and then I tightened the bushings.
Rocky.
Still a little work to do yet, but it's coming!
Hi Rocky,
Lookin great man. Very nicely detailed process steps. The camber lock modification is slick. I like it. Royalties should be paid to you or W-WadeCo?
Nice to hear you are getting sign offs accomplished. How soon do you think for the air tools...those are the fun ones..
Hey..what are you using for rotors/pads?
Lookin great man. Very nicely detailed process steps. The camber lock modification is slick. I like it. Royalties should be paid to you or W-WadeCo?
Nice to hear you are getting sign offs accomplished. How soon do you think for the air tools...those are the fun ones..
Hey..what are you using for rotors/pads?
Hey Rob -
Getting signed off on air tools is a long, ardouous journey. I have to pass bench grinder certification first.*
I did kind of jump the gun by using my angle grinder to fit the shocks (the Koni 30s "hats" can interfere with the shock brackets at full droop) a little prematurely.
With regard to rotors -
I am using vented 12.xx" (number to be filled in later) mustang rotors.
With regard to brake pads -
Stock calipers with Porterfield R4S (Street Compound).
With regards to rear brakes -
This will drive most everyone who has a dog in the fight nuts, but.....
I am using the 1980's technique of dual, stock rear calipers. Since the rear uprights are "unisex", I just have 2 sets of calipers on each rear wheel. This is a common technique from the past, made obsolete by the relatively low cost Willwood kits available at several suppliers.
I can lock up my rears any time I want, I keep my stock emergency brake configuration, and the price was right.
4x $2.00 Bolts
8x Brake pads
2x $15 Braided steel brake hoses
$100 in rebuild kits for 4x calipers
Royalty checks should be submitted direct to W- WadeCo, care of me.... PM me and Ill send you the address!
Rocky
* Note - I am teasing my friend and mentor (Wade) about all this. I am sure he would be perfectly willing to let me take the next step -when ever I want to grab the MIG welder... have at it! (....but I don't think the results would be what either of us want to show off!)
quote:Nice to hear you are getting sign offs accomplished. How soon do you think for the air tools...those are the fun ones..
Getting signed off on air tools is a long, ardouous journey. I have to pass bench grinder certification first.*
I did kind of jump the gun by using my angle grinder to fit the shocks (the Koni 30s "hats" can interfere with the shock brackets at full droop) a little prematurely.
With regard to rotors -
I am using vented 12.xx" (number to be filled in later) mustang rotors.
With regard to brake pads -
Stock calipers with Porterfield R4S (Street Compound).
With regards to rear brakes -
This will drive most everyone who has a dog in the fight nuts, but.....
I am using the 1980's technique of dual, stock rear calipers. Since the rear uprights are "unisex", I just have 2 sets of calipers on each rear wheel. This is a common technique from the past, made obsolete by the relatively low cost Willwood kits available at several suppliers.
I can lock up my rears any time I want, I keep my stock emergency brake configuration, and the price was right.
quote:The camber lock modification is slick. I like it. Royalties should be paid to you or W-WadeCo?
Royalty checks should be submitted direct to W- WadeCo, care of me.... PM me and Ill send you the address!
Rocky
* Note - I am teasing my friend and mentor (Wade) about all this. I am sure he would be perfectly willing to let me take the next step -when ever I want to grab the MIG welder... have at it! (....but I don't think the results would be what either of us want to show off!)
Got my Front Suspension pretty much buttoned up. You can see the pictures in the slideshow here. Things remaining:
1. Brake Hose Routing
2. Bleed Front Brakes
3. Bed Front Pads (Porterfield R4S)
4. "Home Align"
5. Professional Align (Set Up Car / Set Final Ride Height)
So my project got delayed a bit by a "difficult to install" front passenger rotor. The bearing had run hot at one time, and the spindle was just slightly damaged - it had a little ridge on the outside, and then on the inside it was just a tiny bit undersized.
I struggled with that for a week until I got that one figured out, and understood how to get the inner bearing race set on the spindle. Now it is set, and all is buttoned up.
Enjoy the pictures.
Suspension Upgrade - Final Pix
Thanks again to Wade (MarkIV/4280) for the precision work:
1. Setup of the Bearings in the Rotors
2. Pressing Out / Reinstall Bushings
3. W-WadeCo Camber Lock Kit
4. Caster Modification to Ball Joints
5. Specialty Tools
6. Expert Advice
Rocky
2. Bleed Front Brakes
3. Bed Front Pads (Porterfield R4S)
4. "Home Align"
5. Professional Align (Set Up Car / Set Final Ride Height)
So my project got delayed a bit by a "difficult to install" front passenger rotor. The bearing had run hot at one time, and the spindle was just slightly damaged - it had a little ridge on the outside, and then on the inside it was just a tiny bit undersized.
I struggled with that for a week until I got that one figured out, and understood how to get the inner bearing race set on the spindle. Now it is set, and all is buttoned up.
Enjoy the pictures.
Suspension Upgrade - Final Pix
Thanks again to Wade (MarkIV/4280) for the precision work:
1. Setup of the Bearings in the Rotors
2. Pressing Out / Reinstall Bushings
3. W-WadeCo Camber Lock Kit
4. Caster Modification to Ball Joints
5. Specialty Tools
6. Expert Advice
Rocky
Next Project - High Torque Gear Reduction Starter....
So I had been having some minor "Hot Cranking" issues (it is not unusual to be hot here in Tucson BTW!). So a PMGR Starter would seem to be a good upgrade.
The worst part of working on the starter is access. My first problem was that the studs in the bell housing were too short, and then that I couldn't get them out!
But using a very super duper, and nearly magical tool, a few turns of the ratchet had them out in minutes.
Pretty amazing.
Rocky
When I have more time, I will add more detail on the (COMPLETED) PMGR starter project. I have started my car, and the thing cranks way better than my old Motorcraft starter.
So I had been having some minor "Hot Cranking" issues (it is not unusual to be hot here in Tucson BTW!). So a PMGR Starter would seem to be a good upgrade.
The worst part of working on the starter is access. My first problem was that the studs in the bell housing were too short, and then that I couldn't get them out!
But using a very super duper, and nearly magical tool, a few turns of the ratchet had them out in minutes.
Pretty amazing.
Rocky
When I have more time, I will add more detail on the (COMPLETED) PMGR starter project. I have started my car, and the thing cranks way better than my old Motorcraft starter.
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Sounds like some good progress Rocky.
Gotta share the details of the very super duper tool in action for us. ;-)
Gotta share the details of the very super duper tool in action for us. ;-)
quote:Originally posted by Rob Borruso:...
Gotta share the details of the very super duper tool in action for us. ;-)
Yea, I don't reconize those pieces.
the work looks great, hope it will be great on the road & track also
I can tell the interest is boiling over... So I will tell all.
I borrowed two tools to attack these recalcitrant studs (remind you of anyone????)
Anyway - the first is a Proto 4515 Stud Remover. This is the tool I used efficatiously.
It is basically a large, heavy rounded deep-well socket-like contraption. It has a 1/2" drive on one end. The offset hole bored in the side accepts a wedge with a very aggressive rasp-like surface.
Judicious application of the wedge, and torque on the drive digs the hardened teeth into the stud. The wedge shape is pulled ever tighter into the stud as torque is applied. Obviously, you want to set it up to apply the torque in the direction you need for the stud to turn.
Rocky
PS> One guess as to who loaned me this awesome tool....
I borrowed two tools to attack these recalcitrant studs (remind you of anyone????)
Anyway - the first is a Proto 4515 Stud Remover. This is the tool I used efficatiously.
It is basically a large, heavy rounded deep-well socket-like contraption. It has a 1/2" drive on one end. The offset hole bored in the side accepts a wedge with a very aggressive rasp-like surface.
Judicious application of the wedge, and torque on the drive digs the hardened teeth into the stud. The wedge shape is pulled ever tighter into the stud as torque is applied. Obviously, you want to set it up to apply the torque in the direction you need for the stud to turn.
Rocky
PS> One guess as to who loaned me this awesome tool....
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The second tool I had access to is the old "Matco SR-19". This baby has an eccentric knurled wheel on the opposite end of a 1/2" Drive.
It operates basically on the same principle, the drive torque forces the knurled wheel into the stud, locking it into the grip of the tool. Additional twisting force rotates the stud out of the threaded hole (be it the block, bellhousing, etc.).
Rocky
PS> Of course - it was Wade (MarkIV/4280).
"The Right Tool for the Job"
It operates basically on the same principle, the drive torque forces the knurled wheel into the stud, locking it into the grip of the tool. Additional twisting force rotates the stud out of the threaded hole (be it the block, bellhousing, etc.).
Rocky
PS> Of course - it was Wade (MarkIV/4280).
"The Right Tool for the Job"
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That was my first approach. Maybe I didn't get my two nuts tight enough, but when I did try that, they both twisted on the shaft (even thought I was torqueing the inner one).
I was never able to really get a good wrench on the inner nut due to the closeness to the block / header / frame rails.
It's tight in there! I was happy to have access to the right tools.
I was never able to really get a good wrench on the inner nut due to the closeness to the block / header / frame rails.
It's tight in there! I was happy to have access to the right tools.
I like the "looks" of the Proto 4515. I had never seen one and from google it looks like if I do, it will be used.
how has the new starter worked?
how has the new starter worked?
quote:How has the new starter worked?
It works good. Good cranking action - my engine is running again. My first drive after the suspension work is this weekend. I guess I forgot to post up more pictures.
Funny (well, not so funny at the time) anecdote about my car....
When I drove to Yuma for MATO (3 Hrs.), I noted a new vibration at speed. I had just replaced my tires, and had the new ones mounted and balanced. This was my first ride on these tires, and I had not messed with my suspension, so I suspected a balance issue.
I took the rear tires and wheels to a different shop. He only had the kind of machine that had to put a spindle through the center of the wheel. We had to get the De Tomaso caps off.
"Oh, I just whack 'em with hammer", the guy said...
"Hell No you don't just 'whack 'em with a hammer'"!!!!
Anyway - we spun up the wheels, and one was off by 1.75 oz., and the other by .5 oz. I think I found my problem.
Don't ever get your wheels mounted and balanced at C***** **********, even of they do have a nice Factory Five Cobra replica on the shop floor!
Anyway - All is well now. The car just got dropped off for alignment after the front suspension rebuild.
Rocky
PS> I think I owe JFB a picture of my PMGR starter install...
When I drove to Yuma for MATO (3 Hrs.), I noted a new vibration at speed. I had just replaced my tires, and had the new ones mounted and balanced. This was my first ride on these tires, and I had not messed with my suspension, so I suspected a balance issue.
I took the rear tires and wheels to a different shop. He only had the kind of machine that had to put a spindle through the center of the wheel. We had to get the De Tomaso caps off.
"Oh, I just whack 'em with hammer", the guy said...
"Hell No you don't just 'whack 'em with a hammer'"!!!!
Anyway - we spun up the wheels, and one was off by 1.75 oz., and the other by .5 oz. I think I found my problem.
Don't ever get your wheels mounted and balanced at C***** **********, even of they do have a nice Factory Five Cobra replica on the shop floor!
Anyway - All is well now. The car just got dropped off for alignment after the front suspension rebuild.
Rocky
PS> I think I owe JFB a picture of my PMGR starter install...
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Is it possible to connect the red wire to the thik black wire from the starter?
To keep the original starter relais working?
no need for an extra wiring .
Simon
To keep the original starter relais working?
no need for an extra wiring .
Simon
Simon - I tried this (it was my first approach).
Originally, I just ran a jumper from the main power feed to the little solenoid terminal.
It was very quick and easy.
Unfortunately, I found about 50% of the time, my starter would "run on", and keep spinning / remain engaged for 1-2 seconds after the key was released.
"forestg" posted up the solution, which is the same as what is provided (upon request) with the DB starter...
The main feed goes to the INPUT of the bulkhead mounted solenoid (direct to the battery).
The solenoid on the PMGR starter goes to the OUTPUT of the bulkhead mounted solenoid.
Works great, lasts a long time (I hope).
Rocky
Originally, I just ran a jumper from the main power feed to the little solenoid terminal.
It was very quick and easy.
Unfortunately, I found about 50% of the time, my starter would "run on", and keep spinning / remain engaged for 1-2 seconds after the key was released.
"forestg" posted up the solution, which is the same as what is provided (upon request) with the DB starter...
The main feed goes to the INPUT of the bulkhead mounted solenoid (direct to the battery).
The solenoid on the PMGR starter goes to the OUTPUT of the bulkhead mounted solenoid.
Works great, lasts a long time (I hope).
Rocky
