Progress is being made! Congrats!
I little up date.
well, the local legionary Cleveland engine builder that had mine for a couple years told be to come and get the pieces as he was no longer able. this was a real disappointment. So I loaded up the pieces and took to the Car Builders shop (GunnerZ) about 4 hours away (Denver, NC.
given that GunnerZ location to all the NASCAR shops, I sure hope they can find an engine builder,
this was the first time I had visited GunnerZ but was impressed with organization and cleanliness.
what I gathered, there was work on all the pieces so assembly should start showing progress some. For example the suspension is on for fitup and comes off for final painting latte
I've lost interest but the shops manager seems to be agressive at finding info and parts. surprising though was they were waiting to get rear axle bearings due to covid related delays
I retrieved my block and components from the first engine builder when there had been absolutely no progress after 3-4 months.
My second engine builder finally delivered my engine to me after about one full year and I’m very glad I pulled a valve cover for inspection of the new roller rockers. See photo. 😳😡
That discovery prompted me to take it to my third engine builder with instructions to completely tear down the engine and check all clearances, and reassemble.
The third machine shop has a engine dyno along with a chassis dyno. The engine dino resulted in 454 hp with 475 foot pounds of torque.
Yours may also be a long journey but I hope your results are as good as mine were. 🤞🤞
Larry, what was the cause of that roller rocker being off, stud not in the head correctly?
CHI 4V heads. ARP studs, Comp Cams guide plates and rocker arms.
The ID of the guide plates was slightly larger than the diameter of the studs and thus allowed the guide plates to be adjusted for correct, or incorrect, positioning.
I had cautioned the engine builder that guide plate alignment was often troublesome for assemblies like this and if necessary they are sometimes cut, properly positioned and then welded to retain correct alignment.
and yet he delivered the engine to me as pictured. 😡😡
The previous photo was the worst example of misalignment but not the only example.
The third shop found they were able to obtain correct alignment with judicious attention to correct alignment as allowed by the ID versus OD diameter differences.
I'm curious on how the car coming along. Any updates?
I am curious also and CONCERNED.
the excuse is COVID ! very little work (thus no invoices) since the "shut down"
Oh man, sorry to hear that. The extra wait must be excruciating. Hopefully they will be back at it soon. Will be worth the wait! I have plans on taking mine down this year for full restoration at some point. As to not clutter your thread, I may PM you with a few questions when I get there.
Check out Jon kaase racing engines. He is a big Ford engine builder. He also competes in the Engine Masters Challenge and has won many of them with different Ford engines.
I had a discussion with shop building 5177 last week. (I've lost interest
and relying his abilities.) Progress is VERRY slow
The engine builder that abandoned the project a couple years ago had found
"the" ford aluminum intake, in his opinion, better than BT. He was onboard
about making carb base level and re doing studs.
Coming to now. The engine is supposed to be complete EXCEPT, builder
didn't do any thing to intake. During last week discussion with car shop,
he stated he want to "get measurements with engine in" (makes no sense to
So, to my questions and request for info.
Wouldn't the machine shop instructions be mill carb base parallel with head flanges (then Heli coil studs to be square to machined carb base.
Is there anything I am missing? Would anyone know of a pantera shop/dealer
my builder could talk to confirm the intake NEEDS to have the carb base level. AND can be done without taking measurements in the car.
Or some good replies I could forward him
Yes, milling the carb base flat is just as simple as you outlined. It does not require any in-car measurements.
AFAIK, the Blue Thunder “Pantera” intake is the ONLY intake that offers a parallel-to-the-ground design when installed in our Panteras. All the other intakes are designed for passenger cars which install the engine at an angle as opposed to the flat installation in our cars. so those intakes have an angle which positions the carburetor flat when installed in a standard passenger car.
The carb base does not NEED to be milled flat for your Pantera application.
Just about every Pantera on the road does not have a flat carburetor base. The workaround is to fine tune your fuel bowl levels to avoid fuel surging out the vent tubes during hard braking. There is also a modification that can be made to the two fuel bowl vent tubes - connecting the two of them with a fuel-safe piece of tubing that has an air vent hole at the highest point.
milling your intake flat is the ideal approach, but it is likely not worth any more grief in your already frustrating endeavor