You guys are right.
Once I hear her run again, get some miles on her, slap her ass a few times, I'll feel better about it all.
Thhis is still a big F78ked up ordeal that I didn't sign up for when I bought the car though.
IMO I have good reason to be upset.
She's close to being back together, there's a few things I still can't do due to my injury. I pretty much can't do much under the car on my back, it torques my chest too much.
All that's left is plug install, diz install, starter install, crossmember install, air cleaners (which need work, they were short for some reason and covering half of the 4 corner stacks) install, new water hose sections installed, interior install, and a few other things.
We got the pan on last night, so the main work is done.
I'm hoping my neighbor can help a little more with a few of the last things I can't do myself.
Tomorrow I'm tackling the water hoses, everything on this car is a pain in the a$$ to work on.
I pulled the plugs out a while ago so I could build some oil pressure before putting any loads on the motor since we'd been dry cranking it for so long.
I bagged the plugs. Just went to replace them with new plugs, and found that Roger was running 3 different plugs in the engine.
I have no idea which plug to install now at this point.
This car is chock full of surprises.
I bagged the plugs. Just went to replace them with new plugs, and found that Roger was running 3 different plugs in the engine.
I have no idea which plug to install now at this point.
This car is chock full of surprises.
That's a first.
I'll research the different plugs, and probably run the hotter plug out of the bunch, since this car will see 99% street use.
It will also probably be tuned, or at least the tune will be checked by my tuner.
I'd like to say a special thanks to Chuck Banks and Ron Southern, who have both come and helped me with working on my car.
It's a very uncomfortable position for me to be in need of help. I'm always the one pulling someone out of a ditch, or lending money to a friend, or using my AAA card to help an old ex who locked her keys in her car.
I am truly stuck here now, I injusred myself trying to deal with this muself, and Ron and Chuck have come to my aid, and we are close to getting the car back together.
There's still a thoudand things to do, most of which I can do myself, but then there's the things I just can't do because I either can'y physically, or haven't done it before, and would prefer an expert to help me (like with the pan install), I kow it's not rocket science, but Ron and Chuck have come to my aid and really saved me.
This whole ordeal has me depressed, I just found out my father has cancer and we don't know if he's going to make it, the shit is piled on thick right now, so Chuck and Ron, THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP!
I'm hoping if we make staedy progress, the car should be running here shortly.
It will also probably be tuned, or at least the tune will be checked by my tuner.
I'd like to say a special thanks to Chuck Banks and Ron Southern, who have both come and helped me with working on my car.
It's a very uncomfortable position for me to be in need of help. I'm always the one pulling someone out of a ditch, or lending money to a friend, or using my AAA card to help an old ex who locked her keys in her car.
I am truly stuck here now, I injusred myself trying to deal with this muself, and Ron and Chuck have come to my aid, and we are close to getting the car back together.
There's still a thoudand things to do, most of which I can do myself, but then there's the things I just can't do because I either can'y physically, or haven't done it before, and would prefer an expert to help me (like with the pan install), I kow it's not rocket science, but Ron and Chuck have come to my aid and really saved me.
This whole ordeal has me depressed, I just found out my father has cancer and we don't know if he's going to make it, the shit is piled on thick right now, so Chuck and Ron, THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP!
I'm hoping if we make staedy progress, the car should be running here shortly.
I don't know who Roger is, he may have had his reasons,
but leaving rocker bearing pins in the engine and being too cheap to buy 8 new spark plugs, twice, that's not good. I always buy spark plugs in sets of 10, measure them all for resistance after gapping them. The least varying 8 go in. Changing a few at a time? Never
but leaving rocker bearing pins in the engine and being too cheap to buy 8 new spark plugs, twice, that's not good. I always buy spark plugs in sets of 10, measure them all for resistance after gapping them. The least varying 8 go in. Changing a few at a time? Never
Mike, you may want to buy my book, now that you're forced to attend to this engine. Regardless, if you buy a new set of plugs and you're not sure how hot to get them, start COLD! Too cold will soot themselves, too hot will kill your engine. Just like fuel, start rich. And ignition, start retarded. Because hot plugs, lean
air fuel ratio and preignition can kill any engine
air fuel ratio and preignition can kill any engine
Well I can think of several reasons that this engine would have three different types of spark plugs in it. None are any good?
By saying three types, I presume that you mean three different heat ranges, not just brands?
In any case, that is an "interesting" discovery since going to EFI IR induction is because using Weber 48IDA carbs is not accurate enough for most.
Fouling plugs is one of the "notorious" fallacies that "Webers" have and this here spark plug thing is a very clear indication to ME that there are issues with the fuel injections inability to NOT foul plugs?
VERY interesting indeed!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Qf6Sv3A9zs
By saying three types, I presume that you mean three different heat ranges, not just brands?
In any case, that is an "interesting" discovery since going to EFI IR induction is because using Weber 48IDA carbs is not accurate enough for most.
Fouling plugs is one of the "notorious" fallacies that "Webers" have and this here spark plug thing is a very clear indication to ME that there are issues with the fuel injections inability to NOT foul plugs?
VERY interesting indeed!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Qf6Sv3A9zs
Thanks for the info on the plugs.
I'll go with the colder of the ones I found in the car.
I assumed since the car would be 90% driven on the street, that the hotter plugs would be the better option.
The car has the MSD ignition with the big square Mallory power coil as well..
There's been a number of engines run in this car, so some of the componenets may be remnants of previous engines, still in use.
The different plug thing, I don'r know what to say about that. The plugs, the distributor being bad, metal in the engine, the entire electrical system needing work, all these are surprises I was not ready to deal with.
Normal maintenance, valve adjustment, oil changes, brakes, wheel bearings, those were the things I had expected to do myself, and as everyone knows it's turned into much, much more than that.
My plan was also to replace older parts before they failed, like the water hoses and hard lines, fan belt, just in general take good care of the car, work on it and enjoy it.
I'll go with the colder of the ones I found in the car.
I assumed since the car would be 90% driven on the street, that the hotter plugs would be the better option.
The car has the MSD ignition with the big square Mallory power coil as well..
There's been a number of engines run in this car, so some of the componenets may be remnants of previous engines, still in use.
The different plug thing, I don'r know what to say about that. The plugs, the distributor being bad, metal in the engine, the entire electrical system needing work, all these are surprises I was not ready to deal with.
Normal maintenance, valve adjustment, oil changes, brakes, wheel bearings, those were the things I had expected to do myself, and as everyone knows it's turned into much, much more than that.
My plan was also to replace older parts before they failed, like the water hoses and hard lines, fan belt, just in general take good care of the car, work on it and enjoy it.
quote:Originally posted by mike the snake:
Thanks for the info on the plugs.
I'll go with the colder of the ones I found in the car.
I assumed since the car would be 90% driven on the street, that the hotter plugs would be the better option.
The car has the MSD ignition with the big square Mallory power coil as well..
There's been a number of engines run in this car, so some of the componenets may be remnants of previous engines, still in use.
The different plug thing, I don'r know what to say about that. The plugs, the distributor being bad, metal in the engine, the entire electrical system needing work, all these are surprises I was not ready to deal with.
Normal maintenance, valve adjustment, oil changes, brakes, wheel bearings, those were the things I had expected to do myself, and as everyone knows it's turned into much, much more than that.
My plan was also to replace older parts before they failed, like the water hoses and hard lines, fan belt, just in general take good care of the car, work on it and enjoy it.
In MY experience you will be happier with the hotter plug every time.
I use the Champion chart to cross reference heat ranges in this engine. I find their chart the most accurate.
By Champions numbers the COLDEST heat range for be the f9y (in a Windsor with the bigger base diameter plug) and the HOTTEST an F11y.
With the Webers I am running just 1/2 heat range under the f11y but even the f11y would be ok as long as the fuel ration is running lean anywhere.
Ultimately if you went a little hotter to like a 12, it would essentially work as an rpm limiting device somewhere in the 5500+ rpm range. You might even hear pinging there and the caution would be that if you did, that would not be good for the longevity of the engine.
By the same token with this much "induction" in the car you MIGHT see indications of the 9 fouling, then being cleaned up. That would be some glazing on the electrodes. That would be caused by the carbon (fouling) that was remelted as you rev'd the engine and deposited on the porcelins.
I am very sure that if you went to an 8, the car would be just unmanageable with fouling plugs.
If the former "mechanic" mixed 8's and 9' or some combination because of this, then he is either very very tricky and bright OR is very dumb.
Just like the shark in Jaws, "which is he Chief?" Caution should prevail.
...oh, aluminum heads like the hotter plug rather than the colder. Has to do with a more rapid heat transfer and loss than iron heads. Don't fight that. Nothing you can do about it.
I think it is actually a drawback to aluminum heads. They are harder to tune as a result.
Hey...listen. I do not get commission for selling Jon Haas' Pantera-Electronics Ignigition BUT and this is a VERY SIGNIFICANT BUT, it fires fouled plugs and cleans them up while the engine is running. The MSD DOES NOT.
If you are going to mess with ANY KIND of carburation or fuel injection OTHER than a box stock engine, you NEED the P-E.
Just trying to save EVERYONE some self imposed bumps of knowledge and lots of waisted time.
Mike, this is a defining moment in your Pantera ownership. You receive a lot of advice on this forum, but now you have to decide: who will you listen to? I've kept my fingers of the keyboard for a long time, and but I can't no more. There are people posting on this forum that clearly claims to know more than they really do. And they state their opinions as facts, not just opinions. You may decide I'm one of them, if you do, fine. But since I know you're going through hard times on more than one front, I have to say this.
Our good friend PanteraDoug is probably the most active on this forum, and his postings are indeed long and sometimes very detailed. He contributes a lot. Thanks for that. However, some of his opinions, stated as irrefutable facts, are at best questionable. His posting on plugs above is such an example. He knows for a fact that this and this heat range will foul your plugs, not true, every engine is different, the plug heat recommended should be a starting point. And PanteraDoug states that "you will be happier with the hotter plug every time", yes, but only until it's too hot, then it'll quickly melt your pistons, and then you won't be very happy... And you can't buy plugs based on "99% on the street" if that day on the track will kill your engine, right? You have to get plugs that are not too hot when the engine is really used hard.
PanteraDoug also states that a hot plug will be a rev limiter. It won't, and pinging usually starts at middle rpm uphill in high gear. And while pinging in a classic Mustang can be heard, in a noisy Pantera with the engine behind you, it can be hard to hear. I know that from my boat, I suddenly had a 502 cu in anchor instead of a supercharged marine engine, didn't hear a thing.
PanteraDoug also talks about glazed plugs, if you see that, then you have a serious heat problem in your cylinders. PanteraDoug talks about it as if it's something trivial, it's not.
I agree fully with PanteraDoug on this one:"If the former mechanic mixed 8's and 9' or some combination because of this, then he is either very very tricky and bright OR is very dumb."
PanteraDoug then states that Jon Haas' ignition will fix the problem, and MSD will not. Black and white like that. One system will, the other won't. That's just not reality. I know Jon makes great products, I use a few of them, and he's a super guy, so don't be afraid to buy something from him at any time, but stating as a fact that buying a Pantera-Electronics ignition will fix this, is simply a disservice to Mike, he has enough on his plate right now.
Here's my advice:
Find the physical size of the plug you need, thread, length, conical or not etc. For heat range, look in some charts, buy perhaps the 3 most likely sets. Install the coldest and run the car, idling, driving, flooring it. Remember that with modern unleaded fuels, coloring takes some time, use at least an hour. Read the plugs, all 8 (later when you know that there are no major differences between the 8 cylinders, you can just read 1). If too fouled, one heat range hotter. Repeat. Etc., you get the picture. That's the safe way.
Now I won't tell you what plugs to use, but I can tell you what I've been happy with in my 600HP CHI head'ed engine. The engine builder put in NGK Racing Plugs, and I didn't dare using anything else. Currently I use 5238 and similar with different heat ranges to experiment with. I'm told they give a good protection against overheating and fouling at the same time, which is also my experience, but whether they're better than other brands, I don't know.
If you need more info from me, I'd be happy to skype with you about it. Or you can send me a PM. I'd even fly over and help if you pay the airfare
PanteraDoug, sorry if I put you on the spot, you're not the only one, but some of the advice seen on this forum, can be a disservice to a new owner/inexperienced engine tuner. Let's try to not state our opinions as facts, they're only opinions.
Our good friend PanteraDoug is probably the most active on this forum, and his postings are indeed long and sometimes very detailed. He contributes a lot. Thanks for that. However, some of his opinions, stated as irrefutable facts, are at best questionable. His posting on plugs above is such an example. He knows for a fact that this and this heat range will foul your plugs, not true, every engine is different, the plug heat recommended should be a starting point. And PanteraDoug states that "you will be happier with the hotter plug every time", yes, but only until it's too hot, then it'll quickly melt your pistons, and then you won't be very happy... And you can't buy plugs based on "99% on the street" if that day on the track will kill your engine, right? You have to get plugs that are not too hot when the engine is really used hard.
PanteraDoug also states that a hot plug will be a rev limiter. It won't, and pinging usually starts at middle rpm uphill in high gear. And while pinging in a classic Mustang can be heard, in a noisy Pantera with the engine behind you, it can be hard to hear. I know that from my boat, I suddenly had a 502 cu in anchor instead of a supercharged marine engine, didn't hear a thing.
PanteraDoug also talks about glazed plugs, if you see that, then you have a serious heat problem in your cylinders. PanteraDoug talks about it as if it's something trivial, it's not.
I agree fully with PanteraDoug on this one:"If the former mechanic mixed 8's and 9' or some combination because of this, then he is either very very tricky and bright OR is very dumb."
PanteraDoug then states that Jon Haas' ignition will fix the problem, and MSD will not. Black and white like that. One system will, the other won't. That's just not reality. I know Jon makes great products, I use a few of them, and he's a super guy, so don't be afraid to buy something from him at any time, but stating as a fact that buying a Pantera-Electronics ignition will fix this, is simply a disservice to Mike, he has enough on his plate right now.
Here's my advice:
Find the physical size of the plug you need, thread, length, conical or not etc. For heat range, look in some charts, buy perhaps the 3 most likely sets. Install the coldest and run the car, idling, driving, flooring it. Remember that with modern unleaded fuels, coloring takes some time, use at least an hour. Read the plugs, all 8 (later when you know that there are no major differences between the 8 cylinders, you can just read 1). If too fouled, one heat range hotter. Repeat. Etc., you get the picture. That's the safe way.
Now I won't tell you what plugs to use, but I can tell you what I've been happy with in my 600HP CHI head'ed engine. The engine builder put in NGK Racing Plugs, and I didn't dare using anything else. Currently I use 5238 and similar with different heat ranges to experiment with. I'm told they give a good protection against overheating and fouling at the same time, which is also my experience, but whether they're better than other brands, I don't know.
If you need more info from me, I'd be happy to skype with you about it. Or you can send me a PM. I'd even fly over and help if you pay the airfare
PanteraDoug, sorry if I put you on the spot, you're not the only one, but some of the advice seen on this forum, can be a disservice to a new owner/inexperienced engine tuner. Let's try to not state our opinions as facts, they're only opinions.
I looked up the plugs, and they are all the same plugs basically, just renamed, some plugs were probably older, but they are all equivalent. So, I'll be putting the same plugs back in.
The fuel system is controlled by Haltech.
Again, i was told by Roger not to touch that because it had some program that his friend had loaded and that's why it ran so well.
The old distributor was sticking, and needed throttle blips at idle to get the idle to drop to normal. Now I have a new diz, new plugs, hopefully it will all work in concert and the engine will run as well or better than before.
The air cleaners were all shrunk, and literally covered half of four of the stacks. I'm either going to cut them, and add a spacer so they fit the air cleaner mounts, and don't interfere with the stacks, or find larger, porper sized air cleaners that fit the air cleaner bases better.
All these things should help with making the engine run as well or better than before.
The fuel system is controlled by Haltech.
Again, i was told by Roger not to touch that because it had some program that his friend had loaded and that's why it ran so well.
The old distributor was sticking, and needed throttle blips at idle to get the idle to drop to normal. Now I have a new diz, new plugs, hopefully it will all work in concert and the engine will run as well or better than before.
The air cleaners were all shrunk, and literally covered half of four of the stacks. I'm either going to cut them, and add a spacer so they fit the air cleaner mounts, and don't interfere with the stacks, or find larger, porper sized air cleaners that fit the air cleaner bases better.
All these things should help with making the engine run as well or better than before.
quote:Originally posted by No Quarter:
PanteraDoug, sorry if I put you on the spot, you're not the only one, but some of the advice seen on this forum, can be a disservice to a new owner/inexperienced engine tuner. Let's try to not state our opinions as facts, they're only opinions.
You haven't at all. There must be something lost in translation?
I don't speak in ultimates.
The plug temperature range has already been determined.
This is only a question of going one step up or one step down.
If you or anyone realize how close an 8 is to 9 and the total range to an 11 you would never bring this up.
The difference between a 9 and an 11 is small. It's the difference between a 2v engine that is a station wagon and a 4v in a Boss 351.
As I said, I'm not here to sell Pantera-Electronics equipment. I mention them because they aid in fixing some of the reoccurring issues with these cars like ignitions that get brought up time and time again on these forums.
But I do understand that yes you are here to sell your book. I think everyone here does right?
Unfortunately, I've only driven the car for an hour or 2. So I can't get a reading or gauge which plugs might be best.
I looked them up, and they all seem to be equivalent plugs from different eras, same plug, new name.
The air cleaners fit horribly, literally covering halh of the outer four stacks.
Reading the plugs, #1 was the blackest, oiliest, the front four were all blackish, and the rear four were all golden brown, like you want them to look.
This I cannot explain, except maybe the air cleaners were shoved forward or back, and caused irregular airflow.
Maybe the air cleaner fitting had something to do with this, but I plan to have proper fitting air cleaners when the things go back together.
I'm sure, if anything, performance was hurt.
In any case, I have the baseline of what the car had when I bought it, so that's where I'm going to start.
As I go along, I'm finding more and more things that are just plain wrong, or things I should have been notified of before buying, and I'll probably find more as I go.
So far I've had to go through the electrical almost completely, for the last month I've been dealing with this engine issue, my hopes are to just get the car back to being a solid running car (it seemed to run solid for Roger) and then go/fine tune from there.
I have a good tuner who knows Haltech well.
I looked them up, and they all seem to be equivalent plugs from different eras, same plug, new name.
The air cleaners fit horribly, literally covering halh of the outer four stacks.
Reading the plugs, #1 was the blackest, oiliest, the front four were all blackish, and the rear four were all golden brown, like you want them to look.
This I cannot explain, except maybe the air cleaners were shoved forward or back, and caused irregular airflow.
Maybe the air cleaner fitting had something to do with this, but I plan to have proper fitting air cleaners when the things go back together.
I'm sure, if anything, performance was hurt.
In any case, I have the baseline of what the car had when I bought it, so that's where I'm going to start.
As I go along, I'm finding more and more things that are just plain wrong, or things I should have been notified of before buying, and I'll probably find more as I go.
So far I've had to go through the electrical almost completely, for the last month I've been dealing with this engine issue, my hopes are to just get the car back to being a solid running car (it seemed to run solid for Roger) and then go/fine tune from there.
I have a good tuner who knows Haltech well.
quote:Originally posted by No Quarter:
Mike, this is a defining moment in your Pantera ownership. You receive a lot of advice on this forum, but now you have to decide: who will you listen to? I've kept my fingers of the keyboard for a long time, and but I can't no more. There are people posting on this forum that clearly claims to know more than they really do. And they state their opinions as facts, not just opinions. You may decide I'm one of them, if you do, fine. But since I know you're going through hard times on more than one front, I have to say this.
Our good friend PanteraDoug is probably the most active on this forum, and his postings are indeed long and sometimes very detailed. He contributes a lot. Thanks for that. However, some of his opinions, stated as irrefutable facts, are at best questionable. His posting on plugs above is such an example. He knows for a fact that this and this heat range will foul your plugs, not true, every engine is different, the plug heat recommended should be a starting point. And PanteraDoug states that "you will be happier with the hotter plug every time", yes, but only until it's too hot, then it'll quickly melt your pistons, and then you won't be very happy... And you can't buy plugs based on "99% on the street" if that day on the track will kill your engine, right? You have to get plugs that are not too hot when the engine is really used hard.
PanteraDoug also states that a hot plug will be a rev limiter. It won't, and pinging usually starts at middle rpm uphill in high gear. And while pinging in a classic Mustang can be heard, in a noisy Pantera with the engine behind you, it can be hard to hear. I know that from my boat, I suddenly had a 502 cu in anchor instead of a supercharged marine engine, didn't hear a thing.
PanteraDoug also talks about glazed plugs, if you see that, then you have a serious heat problem in your cylinders. PanteraDoug talks about it as if it's something trivial, it's not.
I agree fully with PanteraDoug on this one:"If the former mechanic mixed 8's and 9' or some combination because of this, then he is either very very tricky and bright OR is very dumb."
PanteraDoug then states that Jon Haas' ignition will fix the problem, and MSD will not. Black and white like that. One system will, the other won't. That's just not reality. I know Jon makes great products, I use a few of them, and he's a super guy, so don't be afraid to buy something from him at any time, but stating as a fact that buying a Pantera-Electronics ignition will fix this, is simply a disservice to Mike, he has enough on his plate right now.
Here's my advice:
Find the physical size of the plug you need, thread, length, conical or not etc. For heat range, look in some charts, buy perhaps the 3 most likely sets. Install the coldest and run the car, idling, driving, flooring it. Remember that with modern unleaded fuels, coloring takes some time, use at least an hour. Read the plugs, all 8 (later when you know that there are no major differences between the 8 cylinders, you can just read 1). If too fouled, one heat range hotter. Repeat. Etc., you get the picture. That's the safe way.
Now I won't tell you what plugs to use, but I can tell you what I've been happy with in my 600HP CHI head'ed engine. The engine builder put in NGK Racing Plugs, and I didn't dare using anything else. Currently I use 5238 and similar with different heat ranges to experiment with. I'm told they give a good protection against overheating and fouling at the same time, which is also my experience, but whether they're better than other brands, I don't know.
If you need more info from me, I'd be happy to skype with you about it. Or you can send me a PM. I'd even fly over and help if you pay the airfare
PanteraDoug, sorry if I put you on the spot, you're not the only one, but some of the advice seen on this forum, can be a disservice to a new owner/inexperienced engine tuner. Let's try to not state our opinions as facts, they're only opinions.
On the Webered car, just the SCREEN on one and no screen on another will change the reading of those plugs. Fact, not an opinion.
If I might suggest (not stating right and wrong ) tune the car with no screens or air filters first.
When you get it to where you like the results (not saying at all what is and what is not right, you determine that, ), then you put on your screens or air filters and do it again.
See what effect that has on the plugs?
If I am not mistaken (and yes I can be and more often than I would like) the best flowing screens I have seen for the velocity stacks only flow around 80% of open stacks.
With Webers that's around 80 to 100 hp loss on this engine.
If I might suggest (not stating right and wrong
) tune the car with no screens or air filters first.When you get it to where you like the results (not saying at all what is and what is not right, you determine that,
), then you put on your screens or air filters and do it again.See what effect that has on the plugs?
If I am not mistaken (and yes I can be and more often than I would like) the best flowing screens I have seen for the velocity stacks only flow around 80% of open stacks.
With Webers that's around 80 to 100 hp loss on this engine.
I researched the plugs, and all were equivalent plugs from different eras, same plugs, different numbers, so that mystery is solved.
The air filter thing is serious IMO. If you saw how they fit, you'd laugh.
I was planning on cutting them and inserting (wiring inmaybe) a spacer so the cleaners fit around the edge of their mounts, and stayed out of the way of the stacks.
I asked Roger why he never ran the car without cleaners, because it looks just SO TOTALLY cool with no air cleaners, and he pointed to a bunch of dirt and rocks on top of the transaxle and said that those were just from our test drive, so I knew then I'd be running the car with the cleaners installed.
Now, when I get the cleaners to fit properly, and not cross across the middle of 4 of the stacks, things will probably be even better!
The air filter thing is serious IMO. If you saw how they fit, you'd laugh.
I was planning on cutting them and inserting (wiring inmaybe) a spacer so the cleaners fit around the edge of their mounts, and stayed out of the way of the stacks.
I asked Roger why he never ran the car without cleaners, because it looks just SO TOTALLY cool with no air cleaners, and he pointed to a bunch of dirt and rocks on top of the transaxle and said that those were just from our test drive, so I knew then I'd be running the car with the cleaners installed.
Now, when I get the cleaners to fit properly, and not cross across the middle of 4 of the stacks, things will probably be even better!
Hello Mikael; In your experience of pre-testing spark plugs prior to installation for resistance...Have you ever encountered/tested a Brand New spark plug the FAILED the resistance test?!quote:Originally posted by No Quarter:
I don't know who Roger is, he may have had his reasons,
but leaving rocker bearing pins in the engine and being too cheap to buy 8 new spark plugs, twice, that's not good. I always buy spark plugs in sets of 10, measure them all for resistance after gapping them. The least varying 8 go in. Changing a few at a time? Never
I would fine myself LESS than satisfied to purchase a Brand New FAULTY plug!!!...Mark
I'm happy to report that due to Chuck and Ron's help, we made serious progress today.
We picked up all new rubber hoses and clamps, and I got a set of plugs at the parts store.
Chuck got the starter in and also got the crossmember installed.
Next is to get the coolant hoses (hard lines and rubber) hooked up. There's some secret order in which the pieces all go together, of which I am trying to figure out.
There's a just one or 2 more things that I need help with after I get the hoses installed.
Still have to install the frame brace, well, there's a hundred more things to do, but we made good progress today.
I'll have to research to see if they make air cleaners that are a little bigger, otherwise the ones I have will need to be altered to fit without covering parts of the stacks.
In short time, all these things will be addressed, it's all be correct, and proper, hopefully running sweet, and I'll be back riding Snow White like she needs to be ridden.
We picked up all new rubber hoses and clamps, and I got a set of plugs at the parts store.
Chuck got the starter in and also got the crossmember installed.
Next is to get the coolant hoses (hard lines and rubber) hooked up. There's some secret order in which the pieces all go together, of which I am trying to figure out.
There's a just one or 2 more things that I need help with after I get the hoses installed.
Still have to install the frame brace, well, there's a hundred more things to do, but we made good progress today.
I'll have to research to see if they make air cleaners that are a little bigger, otherwise the ones I have will need to be altered to fit without covering parts of the stacks.
In short time, all these things will be addressed, it's all be correct, and proper, hopefully running sweet, and I'll be back riding Snow White like she needs to be ridden.
quote:Hello Mikael; In your experience of pre-testing spark plugs prior to installation for resistance...Have you ever encountered/tested a Brand New spark plug the FAILED the resistance test?!
Mark, testing for resistance in resistor plugs have often revealed a single plug with more than double built in resistance compared to the rest. I don't know how much that means, but in an attempt to secure even cylinder performance I discard it. A plug that didn't fire at all, that I can't remember.
A set of ten also makes indexing them easier if you want to go to that length
quote:But I do understand that yes you are here to sell your book. I think everyone here does right?
Of course. It's that 1-2 books I sell per month that keep me in luxury and Pantera ownership. Maybe you should buy a copy. I'll sign it for you...
What should a plug test, resistance-wise?
I have an ohm meter.
Can't say I've ever checked my plugs though, just gapped them and run them
I have an ohm meter.
Can't say I've ever checked my plugs though, just gapped them and run them
Just put one end on center electrode, other end on plug cable end. Use the 8 plugs that are closest in value. The absolute number is not important.
Well, I only bought 8 plugs, so it's moot unless I go buy more to compare against, unless I compare against some of the good looking used ones.
Anyways, today's goal is to get the water hoses connected.
I have to puzzle figured out, just no helper to help with squirming the tubes together from both ends.
Gonna give it a try by myself.
Anyways, today's goal is to get the water hoses connected.
I have to puzzle figured out, just no helper to help with squirming the tubes together from both ends.
Gonna give it a try by myself.
Today was a good day!
I worked all morning, found a friend to help me, and I got the entire water hose system back together! Everything! Every clamp! Every Hose! Every hard, steel, "s" shaped hard line that needed snaking around and over the frame from nowhere near where it actually ended up being, I got it all.
New clamps everywhere, even double clamped a couple of the points for good measure.
The water system is DONE! Ready for filling.
Yesterday we got the crossmember, starter, and parts for the cooling system, today I installed all the cooling system, there's just a few more things to do.
I have the motor set at TDC on #1, ready for the distributor to drop in.
I removed the gear from the old distributor so if I wanted to I could crank it by hand and prime the oil pump.
The plugs are removed, and new plugs will be installed after I've gotten oil pressure and oil throughout the engine again.
We are very close to finishing. There's still a hundred things to do, but I'm happy to have gotten some things done myself today without anyone's aid, my chest bone is feeling better. It feels good to have made progress.
I'll still need help, or at least someone who knows what's going on help me with the distributor install, and the frame brace install.
I'll be plugging the MSD box and everything ignition related back in place before the "incident" because those all were functioning, and the problem turned out to not be related to any of that stuff, so I expect it all to work as it's supposed to. Got me a new distributor too! Snow White is gonna be Pimpin!
Since I've been through almost every aspect of the car, she'll get a good detailing as well once she's well.
I worked all morning, found a friend to help me, and I got the entire water hose system back together! Everything! Every clamp! Every Hose! Every hard, steel, "s" shaped hard line that needed snaking around and over the frame from nowhere near where it actually ended up being, I got it all.
New clamps everywhere, even double clamped a couple of the points for good measure.
The water system is DONE! Ready for filling.
Yesterday we got the crossmember, starter, and parts for the cooling system, today I installed all the cooling system, there's just a few more things to do.
I have the motor set at TDC on #1, ready for the distributor to drop in.
I removed the gear from the old distributor so if I wanted to I could crank it by hand and prime the oil pump.
The plugs are removed, and new plugs will be installed after I've gotten oil pressure and oil throughout the engine again.
We are very close to finishing. There's still a hundred things to do, but I'm happy to have gotten some things done myself today without anyone's aid, my chest bone is feeling better. It feels good to have made progress.
I'll still need help, or at least someone who knows what's going on help me with the distributor install, and the frame brace install.
I'll be plugging the MSD box and everything ignition related back in place before the "incident" because those all were functioning, and the problem turned out to not be related to any of that stuff, so I expect it all to work as it's supposed to. Got me a new distributor too! Snow White is gonna be Pimpin!
Since I've been through almost every aspect of the car, she'll get a good detailing as well once she's well.
It's oil decision day again!
Roger ran 20-50 (I think Castrol) non-synthetic.
I had previously chosen Joe Gibbs 15-50, which if I choose again, will help a little with the finer mesh screen compared to 20-50.
Brad Penn (the old "Kendall, green oil") is another option I'm considering.
I had considered dropping an oil weight to 10-40, but was warned about the engine and what it was built for, clearances and such, so I'm probably going to run the Brad Penn or Joe Gibbs oils.
Both have high levels of zinc and ZDDP
Roger ran 20-50 (I think Castrol) non-synthetic.
I had previously chosen Joe Gibbs 15-50, which if I choose again, will help a little with the finer mesh screen compared to 20-50.
Brad Penn (the old "Kendall, green oil") is another option I'm considering.
I had considered dropping an oil weight to 10-40, but was warned about the engine and what it was built for, clearances and such, so I'm probably going to run the Brad Penn or Joe Gibbs oils.
Both have high levels of zinc and ZDDP
Mike do you know what camshaft you are running?
Flat tappet or roller?
You said you liked Joe Gibbs or Driven motor oil, but I do not understand your reluctance to use synthetic.
The Driven website has lots of information about oil, viscosity, ZDDP etc. For example this page..
http://www.drivenracingoil.com...er/guides/viscosity/
"Choosing a motor oil with a higher base oil viscosity index provides the benefit of improved flow when it is cold while maintaining oil film thickness at high temperatures. Conventional mineral base oils have a viscosity index in the range of 100, while synthetic base oils typically have a viscosity index in the range of 150."
"If you are running a conventional 20W-50, just by changing to an mPAO based 10W-40, you can reduce start-up wear without sacrificing high temperature durability or oil pressure."
Give Driven a call and maybe call Royal Purple and a few others. They will be able to inform you how oil has improved or changed.
Flat tappet or roller?
You said you liked Joe Gibbs or Driven motor oil, but I do not understand your reluctance to use synthetic.
The Driven website has lots of information about oil, viscosity, ZDDP etc. For example this page..
http://www.drivenracingoil.com...er/guides/viscosity/
"Choosing a motor oil with a higher base oil viscosity index provides the benefit of improved flow when it is cold while maintaining oil film thickness at high temperatures. Conventional mineral base oils have a viscosity index in the range of 100, while synthetic base oils typically have a viscosity index in the range of 150."
"If you are running a conventional 20W-50, just by changing to an mPAO based 10W-40, you can reduce start-up wear without sacrificing high temperature durability or oil pressure."
Give Driven a call and maybe call Royal Purple and a few others. They will be able to inform you how oil has improved or changed.
Thanks for the tips.
When I mentioned dropping a weight to 10-40 because of the finer mesh screen, people commented on the fact that the engine may have been built to run on 20-50 (bearing clearances and such) and so I just decided to run what Roger ran, weight-wise.
I got the Joe Gibbs Hotrod 15-50, so it should be a little easier on things on cold starts.
My reluctance to run synthetic is, every time I had a leak-free vehicle, when I switched to synthetic, I miraculously sprung leaks that just didn't exist before.
I know the Joe Gibbs oil is good, it was recommended by a couple top engine builders I talked to, but I may try synthetic sometime in the future.
When I mentioned dropping a weight to 10-40 because of the finer mesh screen, people commented on the fact that the engine may have been built to run on 20-50 (bearing clearances and such) and so I just decided to run what Roger ran, weight-wise.
I got the Joe Gibbs Hotrod 15-50, so it should be a little easier on things on cold starts.
My reluctance to run synthetic is, every time I had a leak-free vehicle, when I switched to synthetic, I miraculously sprung leaks that just didn't exist before.
I know the Joe Gibbs oil is good, it was recommended by a couple top engine builders I talked to, but I may try synthetic sometime in the future.
quote:Originally posted by bdud:
Mike do you know what camshaft you are running?
Flat tappet or roller?
You said you liked Joe Gibbs or Driven motor oil, but I do not understand your reluctance to use synthetic.
The Driven website has lots of information about oil, viscosity, ZDDP etc. For example this page..
http://www.drivenracingoil.com...er/guides/viscosity/
"Choosing a motor oil with a higher base oil viscosity index provides the benefit of improved flow when it is cold while maintaining oil film thickness at high temperatures. Conventional mineral base oils have a viscosity index in the range of 100, while synthetic base oils typically have a viscosity index in the range of 150."
"If you are running a conventional 20W-50, just by changing to an mPAO based 10W-40, you can reduce start-up wear without sacrificing high temperature durability or oil pressure."
Give Driven a call and maybe call Royal Purple and a few others. They will be able to inform you how oil has improved or changed.
OK, oil is in, car is ready for coolant.
The condition of the insides of the tubing didn't look too great, all a bit rusty, but still all useable, so I just hooked it all back up with new sections of rubber hose everywhere.
What's the best thing to run in my car?
I live an hour north of SanFracisco. It occasionally frosts, with a cold spell every couple years were it gets down to 15-17 degrees, where we usually get a cracked pipe or 2 on the house.
The garage is not heated, so it gets pretty cold in there, not sure if it gets cold enough to freeze water in my car though.
When I raced motorcycles, coolant wasn't allowed, so I used water and "Water Wetter" but I was always careful to run a heater in the garage to keep things from freezing.
On my car, it's time to fill it up with coolant.
I'd be fine with water and "Water Wetter", or running antifreeze and water.
What's the best water to use? I have an aluminum radiator that already has a pinhole leak that I fixed with "Stops Leaks" (I hope now that it's been empty for a while that it still works), but I want to put the correct water in the car.
I have an RO system I can dig out of storage, I can buy the different waters sold at the store, I can buy the pre-mixed 1/2&1/2 stuff, or I can buy antifreeze and add water.
I'd prefer to put whatever would cause the least amount of further damage to my already degrading radiator.
The condition of the insides of the tubing didn't look too great, all a bit rusty, but still all useable, so I just hooked it all back up with new sections of rubber hose everywhere.
What's the best thing to run in my car?
I live an hour north of SanFracisco. It occasionally frosts, with a cold spell every couple years were it gets down to 15-17 degrees, where we usually get a cracked pipe or 2 on the house.
The garage is not heated, so it gets pretty cold in there, not sure if it gets cold enough to freeze water in my car though.
When I raced motorcycles, coolant wasn't allowed, so I used water and "Water Wetter" but I was always careful to run a heater in the garage to keep things from freezing.
On my car, it's time to fill it up with coolant.
I'd be fine with water and "Water Wetter", or running antifreeze and water.
What's the best water to use? I have an aluminum radiator that already has a pinhole leak that I fixed with "Stops Leaks" (I hope now that it's been empty for a while that it still works), but I want to put the correct water in the car.
I have an RO system I can dig out of storage, I can buy the different waters sold at the store, I can buy the pre-mixed 1/2&1/2 stuff, or I can buy antifreeze and add water.
I'd prefer to put whatever would cause the least amount of further damage to my already degrading radiator.
There is no rocket science required here. Use pre-mixed "aluminum" compatible 50/50 anti-freeze.
If you freeze up and have threaded in "freeze plugs" then you WILL CRACK THE BLOCK. Some engine builders install them over the pressed in freeze plugs because they feel they stiffen and strengthen the block.
It's easy to tell what you have. Stick your head up in there and check the freeze plugs. If you see something that looks like a big Allen socket plug (which it is) then the block has been modified by the builder.
If you have the pressed in cad plated steel plugs then that is stock. Theoretically they are supposed to pop out if the engine freezes to reduce the likeliness that the expanding frozen coolant will expand to the extent that it cracks the block.
SOMETIMES that works.
Why chance that. Use 50/50 anti freeze.
The more expensive GM qualification stuff theoretically is better for aluminum.
If you read your 50/50 Prestone information, it will say it is safe for aluminum as well. I use that. No problems with it.
I do have WaterWetter in the mix but that is really for additional cooling consideration.
Since you are running the steel radiator pipes put in some "rust inhibitor". That should help some.
What I have done as well as many others is install the stainless pipes. That way you should never have to worry anything about them any more. There is already enough to stress anyone out on worrying about what can happen in this car.
Just make sure you have tow insurance. Then go drive the thing.
This car IS as reliable as any car ever made. The negatives are largely hype by the "Chicken Littles" of the World.
If you freeze up and have threaded in "freeze plugs" then you WILL CRACK THE BLOCK. Some engine builders install them over the pressed in freeze plugs because they feel they stiffen and strengthen the block.
It's easy to tell what you have. Stick your head up in there and check the freeze plugs. If you see something that looks like a big Allen socket plug (which it is) then the block has been modified by the builder.
If you have the pressed in cad plated steel plugs then that is stock. Theoretically they are supposed to pop out if the engine freezes to reduce the likeliness that the expanding frozen coolant will expand to the extent that it cracks the block.
SOMETIMES that works.
Why chance that. Use 50/50 anti freeze.
The more expensive GM qualification stuff theoretically is better for aluminum.
If you read your 50/50 Prestone information, it will say it is safe for aluminum as well. I use that. No problems with it.
I do have WaterWetter in the mix but that is really for additional cooling consideration.
Since you are running the steel radiator pipes put in some "rust inhibitor". That should help some.
What I have done as well as many others is install the stainless pipes. That way you should never have to worry anything about them any more. There is already enough to stress anyone out on worrying about what can happen in this car.
Just make sure you have tow insurance. Then go drive the thing.
This car IS as reliable as any car ever made. The negatives are largely hype by the "Chicken Littles" of the World.
Well,
The sky has already fallen on me, so Chicken Little is already squished.
My thoughts were like you've said, 50/50 antifreeze and water, but my main question was What Water?
I can go to the store and buy purified water, I have an RO system and make some RO water up for the car.
The radiator already has a pinhole leak that I fixed with Stops-Leaks, but I expect I'll be replacing the radiator sometime in the future.
The tubes rear of the firewall all looked pretty good, the long straight pipes under the car could have looked better, but everything was still functional, rusty, but functional.
Eventually I'll probably slowly replace everything, either as it konks out, or as I maintain the car.
Fluidyne just called back and said "purified water" from the store, and antifreeze, 50-50.
How much water sould I buy?
The sky has already fallen on me, so Chicken Little is already squished.
My thoughts were like you've said, 50/50 antifreeze and water, but my main question was What Water?
I can go to the store and buy purified water, I have an RO system and make some RO water up for the car.
The radiator already has a pinhole leak that I fixed with Stops-Leaks, but I expect I'll be replacing the radiator sometime in the future.
The tubes rear of the firewall all looked pretty good, the long straight pipes under the car could have looked better, but everything was still functional, rusty, but functional.
Eventually I'll probably slowly replace everything, either as it konks out, or as I maintain the car.
Fluidyne just called back and said "purified water" from the store, and antifreeze, 50-50.
How much water sould I buy?
quote:Originally posted by PanteraDoug:
There is no rocket science required here. Use pre-mixed "aluminum" compatible 50/50 anti-freeze.
If you freeze up and have threaded in "freeze plugs" then you WILL CRACK THE BLOCK. Some engine builders install them over the pressed in freeze plugs because they feel they stiffen and strengthen the block.
It's easy to tell what you have. Stick your head up in there and check the freeze plugs. If you see something that looks like a big Allen socket plug (which it is) then the block has been modified by the builder.
If you have the pressed in cad plated steel plugs then that is stock. Theoretically they are supposed to pop out if the engine freezes to reduce the likeliness that the expanding frozen coolant will expand to the extent that it cracks the block.
SOMETIMES that works.
Why chance that. Use 50/50 anti freeze.
The more expensive GM qualification stuff theoretically is better for aluminum.
If you read your 50/50 Prestone information, it will say it is safe for aluminum as well. I use that. No problems with it.
I do have WaterWetter in the mix but that is really for additional cooling consideration.
Since you are running the steel radiator pipes put in some "rust inhibitor". That should help some.
What I have done as well as many others is install the stainless pipes. That way you should never have to worry anything about them any more. There is already enough to stress anyone out on worrying about what can happen in this car.
Just make sure you have tow insurance. Then go drive the thing.
This car IS as reliable as any car ever made. The negatives are largely hype by the "Chicken Littles" of the World.
50/50 is premixed with the water already mixed with the anti-freeze.
It means it is 50% anti-freeze and 50% water (distilled).
You put it in just the way you buy it.
It is already mixed with distilled water with theoretically no impurities in it.
It means it is 50% anti-freeze and 50% water (distilled).
You put it in just the way you buy it.
It is already mixed with distilled water with theoretically no impurities in it.
quote:How much water should I buy?
The Pantera cooling system holds 24 liters (6 3/8 US Gallons) of coolant. So pick up 3 gallons of your purified (not RO) water and 3 gallons of anti-freeze. Or, just buy 6 gallons of 50/50 anti-freeze which is pre-mixed with water.
For what its worth, I think that Stops Leaks probably degrades your overall cooling ability on a car that likely has marginal cooling capacity when equipped with a big motor like yours (and yes, even with an upgraded cooling system). A leak is a leak is a leak. As soon as you get that running right the first thing on your to-do list should be to get that radiator fixed and the system purged of Stops Leaks. You can go online and read some horror stories of the use of Stops Leaks.
I researched about the Stops-Leaks stuff before using it.
I asked my friend who IS Korbel's racing program, he does it all, builds the cars, drives the transports, races the cars, everything. He said he drops a thing of Stops Leaks into his new engines and runs it in everything, just good insurance. If he runs, I'll run it.
The radiator will be being replaced sometime soon I suspect anyways. It's already sprung one leak on me.
I just redid the whole back half of the water pipe system, so when the radiator craps out, I'll replace it, and the other front tubes, and I'll have a completely new coolant system in the car.
I asked my friend who IS Korbel's racing program, he does it all, builds the cars, drives the transports, races the cars, everything. He said he drops a thing of Stops Leaks into his new engines and runs it in everything, just good insurance. If he runs, I'll run it.
The radiator will be being replaced sometime soon I suspect anyways. It's already sprung one leak on me.
I just redid the whole back half of the water pipe system, so when the radiator craps out, I'll replace it, and the other front tubes, and I'll have a completely new coolant system in the car.
I've heard of this before too, i.e., the race teams using stop leak as a precaution.
Iron heads had (still do) have the reputation of developing leaks int the valve ports because they have been maxed out by porting and the walls left thin as a result.
It's ok to use as long as the leaks are small and you aren't clogging up the flow tubes in the radiators with the stuff.
I'd use it for now, do a major flush job when you do the cooling system?
The only thing left to worry about then would be the engine and the heater core.
You are going to change everything else out anyway with majority of the material getting cleaned out.
Iron heads had (still do) have the reputation of developing leaks int the valve ports because they have been maxed out by porting and the walls left thin as a result.
It's ok to use as long as the leaks are small and you aren't clogging up the flow tubes in the radiators with the stuff.
I'd use it for now, do a major flush job when you do the cooling system?
The only thing left to worry about then would be the engine and the heater core.
You are going to change everything else out anyway with majority of the material getting cleaned out.
There are heater lines under the car with valves on them. I assume they're turned off.
I don't plan on using the heater anyways
I don't plan on using the heater anyways
Happy to report lots of progress.
Everything under the car is done. Crossmember, frame brace, actually, I still need to zip-tie my E-brake cables up and out of the way, but that's 2 minutes of work.
Today I got the distributor in myself, plug wires plugged in, hopefully worked out my air cleaner situation, (I'll know in a couple days).
All that's really left to do is confirm oil pressure with no plugs, install plugs after oil pressure is confirmed, add coolant, put the air cleaners back on, and probably a couple other things I've forgotten, but it's as close as I'm going with this alone.
I'm gaining confidence as I work on this car, shit, after working on this car I should be able to fix anything!
Still though, there's just a lot of stuff going on, even the air cleaners take a bit of time to R&R. It is CLOSE to running again though.
I hope tomorrow, if I can get some supervision, and a timing light, we should have the car running at least well enough for me to take things from that point without need of anyone's help.
I also plan on forming a relationship with a shop that Chuck recommended that DOES do work on our cars (Every other shop I called in town won't work on Panteras, just won't even take the job on-kind of understandably) but life is good.
Progress is being made, the car will run in the next day or so, I'll then be spending a few more days buttoning up the rest of the car, cleaning, checking, and hopefully begin my new relationship with my new love.
Everything under the car is done. Crossmember, frame brace, actually, I still need to zip-tie my E-brake cables up and out of the way, but that's 2 minutes of work.
Today I got the distributor in myself, plug wires plugged in, hopefully worked out my air cleaner situation, (I'll know in a couple days).
All that's really left to do is confirm oil pressure with no plugs, install plugs after oil pressure is confirmed, add coolant, put the air cleaners back on, and probably a couple other things I've forgotten, but it's as close as I'm going with this alone.
I'm gaining confidence as I work on this car, shit, after working on this car I should be able to fix anything!
Still though, there's just a lot of stuff going on, even the air cleaners take a bit of time to R&R. It is CLOSE to running again though.
I hope tomorrow, if I can get some supervision, and a timing light, we should have the car running at least well enough for me to take things from that point without need of anyone's help.
I also plan on forming a relationship with a shop that Chuck recommended that DOES do work on our cars (Every other shop I called in town won't work on Panteras, just won't even take the job on-kind of understandably) but life is good.
Progress is being made, the car will run in the next day or so, I'll then be spending a few more days buttoning up the rest of the car, cleaning, checking, and hopefully begin my new relationship with my new love.
If I can get a helper, experienced or not, I'm going to fire the car up today.
I have the manual, so I can at least just read it and go through what it says about filling the coolant (although Chuck said he had his own way that worked well), but today my goal is to get someone to help me with cranking the car over (confirm oil pressure), double checking for TDC, filling the coolant, and she's ready to fire up.
I'm hoping someone is free today to help me for a bit to finish these last things.
I'm going to cut and install the air cleaners so they fit but with a 2" gap, which I'll temporoarily tape over with duct tape.
I have the manual, so I can at least just read it and go through what it says about filling the coolant (although Chuck said he had his own way that worked well), but today my goal is to get someone to help me with cranking the car over (confirm oil pressure), double checking for TDC, filling the coolant, and she's ready to fire up.
I'm hoping someone is free today to help me for a bit to finish these last things.
I'm going to cut and install the air cleaners so they fit but with a 2" gap, which I'll temporoarily tape over with duct tape.
quote:Originally posted by mike the snake:
...I have the manual, so I can at least just read it and go through what it says about filling the coolant...
I would recomend searching this site especially the this sticky
http://pantera.infopop.cc/eve/...50045562/m/346105744
If Snow White's coolant has be modified, it would be interesting if you could describe
Got her cranked over with no plugs until the oil pressure gauge moved. Once it moved it quickly went right to 20lbs, so I'm happy I now have oil pressure.
I actually have the rest of the car buttoned up as well, but I'm going to take the extra couple hours to remove the air cleaners, and double/triple check the rotor direction and plug wire positions.
I double checked them when I installed everything, but there's that little bit of doubt i still have (the last time I did this was 30 years ago) that I'm going to go back and triple check it all.
Then, with plugs and coolant, she should be ready to fire up.
I'm going to go buy a timing light tomorrow too.
I actually have the rest of the car buttoned up as well, but I'm going to take the extra couple hours to remove the air cleaners, and double/triple check the rotor direction and plug wire positions.
I double checked them when I installed everything, but there's that little bit of doubt i still have (the last time I did this was 30 years ago) that I'm going to go back and triple check it all.
Then, with plugs and coolant, she should be ready to fire up.
I'm going to go buy a timing light tomorrow too.
Any tips on timing the car with the timing light?
There's white marks all over the harmonic balancer, as well as marks on the flywheel and bellhousing.
It's a mechanical advance distributor, no vacum chamber, no vacum line.
SO, at idle I should look for what, maybe 10 degrees advance?
Then at 3000 I should be at full advance which should be somewhere around what, 26-30?
Roger told me to tune the car by ear, throw away the timing light, (I actually am off to BUY a timing light right now) but he may aalso have been "ear timing" the car with the stuck advance mechanism on the old diz, so this time I'm going with the timing light and see if i can't get some data.
There's white marks all over the harmonic balancer, as well as marks on the flywheel and bellhousing.
It's a mechanical advance distributor, no vacum chamber, no vacum line.
SO, at idle I should look for what, maybe 10 degrees advance?
Then at 3000 I should be at full advance which should be somewhere around what, 26-30?
Roger told me to tune the car by ear, throw away the timing light, (I actually am off to BUY a timing light right now) but he may aalso have been "ear timing" the car with the stuck advance mechanism on the old diz, so this time I'm going with the timing light and see if i can't get some data.