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Look, I know I'm being a bud-in-ski here. It seems to me that running a Boss 302 head in a Mangusta isn't worth the effort with the changes you are talking about?

I'm using AFR 1388 heads on my 347 in my 68 GT350. Go and look at the flow numbers on the heads. They out flow stock Boss 302 heads.

They are a direct replacement for the iron 302 J heads once you shave them .024".

That means everything stock Mangusta is going to bolt up to them. You don't need Boss heads. The AFR's are better.

Now if you are going to say the AFR's are modifying the car, what do you call a Boss 302?

OK. Enough of my budding in here. Sorry to interrupt your discussion.

 

Last edited by panteradoug

No sweat, am sure you're right. Car had the change made to Boss 302 motor in late 60's.  Apparently, it may have been Chicago or Detroit Auto show car (couldn't get this verified). Does kinda make sense since the saying used to be 'race on Sunday sell on Monday'. Anyway, will keep it this way since its been in this configuration since the beginning, and refresh it as close as possible to the way it was in 1969.

Well finally a little movement. Attached are the prototype color I am going for and the paint model I received that my Goose will be painted...close but not a perfect match.

After 5 years, positive movement!! Car was completely primed and ready, but they found a 'reaction' between primer and metal so they are stripping it and putting on a different primer. Shooting for paint in attached color in Jul.Goose Paint67 prototype

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  • mceclip0
  • Goose Paint
  • 67 prototype

Not to second guess Denisc but you may want to double check the dimensions before buying your battery. Mine had odd protrusions at the very bottom, so even though the overall dimensions made sense the battery would not sit flat in the tray.  Relocating battery to front would be a big win for weight distribution. Not only does the weight leave the rear, but is added up front. Then again it looks like you are striving for some sense of originality so maybe save that trick for your next Mangusta.

The Goose battery is a 24 series version.     The factory used a rubber pad (from Carello!) to set the battery on, which would lift it about 3/16"......but it would be easier to find a "protrusionless" battery!!!

Edit: 12/19   I miss stated above about the Carello battery "pad".... since the Goose battery tray is not solid flat on the bottom but more like "angle-tin" pieces....with a big hole in the middle.

I found "strips of rubber" that fit into the frame bottoms and on the backside of one of the strips I found "Carello"....... probably didn't take pictures......just put it back in place.....!!! Sorry!

Scifi- you are correct......don't go cutting up the Goose!!!   Remember when driving your 401K around......weight distribution isn't an issue!!!!!  Neither is cornering...... acceleration.....braking....., OK, you probably should have good braking......

Ciao!  

Last edited by mangusta

Logistics question: Car is completely stripped of everything (including motor and mechanicals) so its pretty light. Have a 4500lb capacity winch attached to front cross bar of 4 post lift to pull goose onboard and will reassemble it on the lift. Not having towed the goose anywhere, what are the best attach structural points up front to wrap around a nylon tow rope forming a triangle shape to be reeled in with the winch? Thanx.

There may be a tow loop on the driver side of the frame rail, near front of car. The trouble is, unless winch is low to ground, using said loop would cause cable to come in contact with front facia, thus the need for a strap in a triangle shape at the front which makes a tow bar so to speak and saves the car from damage. Photo attached. I did not see exactly where the strap went.

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  • tow

Hmmm, thought I responded to this post.......must have missed a key.....!!!

You can wrap straps around the lower frame rails up front.  They are completely boxed and can handle this massive job.    Depending on the lift and pull angles, you may want to put a 2x2 or 4x4 across the rails to keep the strap down off of the front valance.

In the pic, you can see the frame rails and the bracing...where you can sneak straps thru with no fear of slippage.....   Please ignore my messy wiring........was trying to duplicate factory job.....

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  • 101_3044
Last edited by mangusta

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