Goose 8MA642 Refurb and Repaint

I'd absolutely recommend getting the diagram but be prepared to make some modifications to match your vehicle! (I assume the factory wiring evolved in areas with time and not sure when the diagram was made). Worst feature is the tiny size - I had it enlarged to 3 x 5' which helps a lot. All in all PLENTY of confusing and/or incorrect details, and wire colors are not noted. That said, the only part that was totally missing was the emergency flash relay, which on my car is under the dash, beside the horn relay. Still, a huge help!

Steve, just to finish on skid plate...Our friend '696 (the gold car in Miami...really does seem to be a nice car) has a clear pic on skid plate mounting...I think I've seen others make this notch for the drain plug.

Nate, for me the hardest thing about the Schematic was dealing with the "2 halves" (where one page has a displaced gap with the other). Good news, the car is simple enough.

Dick, yeah, our family has 2 copies of Bella Wink




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Am prepping for engine stand run of rebuilt motor and plan to use rebuilt radiator to test it. The picture shows a port at the top circled in red that was connected to the overflow tank in the engine bay since I've had the car

The bottom red circled port has been blocked off since I've had the car.

What is the correct connections for the coolant going into the radiator other than the main coolant input coming in from the thermostat housing? Should I be running the hose from the overflow tank to the top port (way the car has been for years) on the radiator, or the bottom port (blocked off for years) on the radiator?




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I ran the top connection on my expansion tank to the small connection on the front "Y" Pipe off of the thermostat housing.

The lower expansion tank connection went up to my small connection on the radiator, where-ever it was..... I believe it was at the bottom....

My diagram I posted showed originally the lower connection on the expansion tank tied into the crazy hoses that were the heater shut-off valve circuits. I believe you said that you weren't running a heater???

For testing just connect the main large connections and don't worry about the small stuff. Connect it like it was in a regular Ford! Keep the radiator high enuf to be the "top tank" in a normal car, and just watch the water via the radiator cap there! Keep it simple!!!!

Make some noise!!!!!
Hi Mark, regarding connections everything I have showing 'stock' plumbing has the small connection low on the radiator going to the lefthand "Y" fitting near the header tank & the lefthand heater valve. Good luck w/ the tests! Regards, Nate
Alright! Progress!!!!

Re the relay above the AC condenser fan.....while the connectors from afar appear to perhaps be original style, I have no idea what it is for....unless it is for lights or the fan.

Follow the wires.

As for relays on factory wiring diag's, they are notably missing from copies that I have and what I have heard from others...... The two above/adjacent to the fuse panel are for AC, stuff under the dash..... and radiator fans if memory serves me. Carello....plastic housings....tend to "soften" with heat....!!! Keep some Bosch "relays on a tab" handy.... Don't forget to assure that your ground connector(s) to these relays are making good contact.....thru thick insulation!

Ok, second relay....if this is on RH wall of engine compartment, I would bet that this is a voltage regulator of sorts.

Get numbers off of the cases of both....and you can likely find new replacements! The regulator came in two sizes....20A and 30A or 30-40.....and were paired with the Bosch alternator size....(current).....

These voltage reg's showed up on VW's and others...... IF that is what is is.

Mine was mounted wiring connectors down.....opposite of yours.......

Gobble gobble!!!!

Mark, the relay in the back isn't original; the voltage regulator (2nd [pic) was used on Mercedes and Porsche 914, check Bosch #30-051 or 0 190 601 006 (I have no idea if these are 20A or otherwise as Steve mentions). These are available as aftermarket, and probably won't take too long even to find NOS.

The fan relays Steve mentions were Carello, 22.900.000 . I haven't been able to find these anywhere...Lee



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Lee, good pic's!

If you burn up one of these Carello units, the BOSCH "block" relays work fine. Best is the ones with the mounting tab on them. They come in two flavors, 30 and 40amp. 30's should be sufficient for these cars, excepting some aftermarket fans!

Thanx Steve/Lee, appreciate it. I'll make voltage regulator disappear as I have installed small racing alternator on front of motor since I pulled jackshaft/generator/A/C to accommodate Weber IDA intake.

Once I get car back from paint, I'll some sleuthing to figure what rear relay might be. Right now, am just building engine test stand wiring so that rear relay isn't a player.

Fan wise, I replaced my radiator fans with two 1500 cfm Zirgo's and used a couple of Bosch relays.

Simon, funny, my brother put them on 30 years ago after getting them from Hall...even his German should be good enough to recognize "warnblinkgeber" (but shows how long the car hasn't been run...!). Could this have been a re-use of the Bosch box (as done here http://www.pantera-electronics...signal%20flasher.htm ) ? I'm about 10,000 miles from the car for a few months, will be eager to open up the can...! Lee

This is one of the cube relays..... in a completely different application....but you can see the mounting tab! There is a socket installed on this one.....which could be potentially used in the Goose, but not necessary.....unless all of your connectors are toast and need replacing anyway!




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For you folks that are electrical gurus, how does this wiring set up look for a test stand to run Goose engine? The starter, starter solenoid, alternator, battery, oil press sensor, water temp sensor, and ignition system are the components I'll actually install in Goose so thought it would be good idea to test them. I had goose fans/relays/fuses wired in in my first incarnation of this but just decided to put a floor fan in front of radiator when temp gets to 180.



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Wow!!! Into the "way over the top juice" eh???

I keep a set of manual gauges for oil and water monitoring..... hook up the coil with a paper clip to power....not really.....but a big wire.....jumper cables to the starter solenoid, some gas in a can and hit it!!!! Make some noise!!! Smiler

Drawing looks good with only one question about #12 wire to 1-B on ign switch for alt charge. I would think this connection would be to #2 for the "run" or "ign" mode? Not sure what the #1 terminal is here......

As for the Accel stuff and tach......hafta go with what they recommend in their papers.....

Video at 6????
Mark, only question on the wiring diagram is whether the Accel separates 'key' from 'coil...' (Last module I installed directly attached to the battery, and the key only turned on the module). Anything you can do to keep the current thru the switch low is a good thing. Otherwise, wow, looking forward to seeing this car...Lee
This is truly a case of "your mileage may vary"!!!

There is no real stock mirror on a Goose....many were shipped here without...and dealers popped whatever they had on a fender or door and away it went......

You might post a pic of the mirror you are dealing with...perhaps then help can be offered....

Glad to see progress!!! I bet you are also!
(sorry if off-topic) But re: the Carello relays used for power switching by the fuse block, here appear to be almost exact replacements---except for the Carello name... Fiat part number
4263598 -

I bought "Itab" made relays, which (like the Carello) are also marked "Torino" and I'd bet were a common manufacturer as the Carello. I did buy a NOS Carello 22.900.000 many months ago, it was very expensive but I was drunk with the find...

The Sipea part numbers for this relay (with metal instead of plastic body) seem to be 5170 and 7810.

Good find!!! I would venture that your theory of manufacturer supplying others is probably not far from truth..... That looks too similar!

I found some Carello relays on some Italian car in the junk yard years back, but found that one was a "NO"= contacts "normally open" and one was "NC"= contacts "normally closed".

Some relays, like the small cube Bosch types may have both options are are great substitutes in a jamb or as spares.... But the Carellos seem to be one or the other!

So, buyers beware!!!!

I like the circuit on the plastic to "explain" how to hook it up!!!


Well, a little movement in the right direction. Almost 4 years since going to paint shop.  Car has been red, but original color was copper. New color will be as close as I could get to metallic platinum on the prototype. Attached are samples of the paint selected. Since the prototype's metallic platinum was not one of the original gooses colors, this Porsche color appeared to come the closest.





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Keep up the good work! A few months ago there was a very original/low mile goose for sale, I believe it was out of Florida. I thought it was the same color as the original prototype, but that was just an assumption. It looked pretty close to your sample chips. Sadly can't locate the ad at the moment.

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